It could be a gas problem. Older cars are not suitable for the new gasoline blends with ethanol, so sometimes the computer will give out an incorrect reading and the light will come on
This could be a carburetor problem.
Open the bonnet and remove the air filter to get better access to the carburetor, check the throttle cables, is anything loosely connected or looks out of place?
move the throttle manually with your hand to get the feel of it, is it loose - tight - sticky or smooth?
check to see if the carburetor is tightly mounted, they do come loose from the housing and this let's additional air in possibly causing some of your symptoms.
This would also explain the idle issue.
check the choke cable too, check for kinks in all the cables or any obvious wearing.
change your fuel filter
check what fuel you should be running, octane ?
do you have a hand book for the car check that too
so just go through each thing, a process of elimination.
Once you have checked all the fuel system move onto your ignition system. Good luck
Start the engine, depress the brake pedal, press the oval push button attached to the upper side of the gear lever stick and shift the lever to R, N, or D. It should work. If not check the following:
- Push button mechanism and the solenoid for malfunction.
- Brake switch assembly.
- Wiring harness.
You can also release the gear lever by pressing the small red button located on the base of gear lever stick. Simultaneously press the small red button and the push button of the gear lever stick to get it out from P.
None of those things . Just bleed the brakes normally starting from the longest line and ending with the shortest. The proportioning valve will always let brake fluid through, just not enough to lock up the rear brakes until you press heavy on the pedal . It is there so that full pressure to the large front brakes is reduce in proportion to the smaller rear brakes.
To take the starter out, do the following:
- Remove negative battery terminal first, and then the positive terminal.
- Keep away the terminals from the battery posts to avoid any spark.
- Remove the thick starter cable from the solenoid with 12 mm wrench.
- Remove the wiring push-on connector from the solenoid.
- Unscrew the two mounting bolts attached to the starter hosing and take the starter out.
Hope that work and thank you for visiting Fixya.
is this question? do ask a questions
who
what
why
where
how come
when
like that.
ill try to guess.
my brake lamp fuse keeps blowing, why?
answer, the brake lamps circuit is shorted. the fuse saved the fire.
first replace both brake lamps or all 3 if 3rd lamp bs.
most brass based bulbs can short easy . (glue inside fails)
park lock out. is defective.
open operators guide,, turn to trans shifting page
see bypass, device, used on all cars. like this.
a hidden cover or ,a slot to put any key and bypass it
here is the lost book , read page 77 , its there...
http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/toyota/toyota-corolla-owners-manuals/
RTM, its an amazing thing.
for some a blessing, other>????
all doors, or just one,
do other warnings work, key left in, ? belts not attached?
if only one door fails and all other warnings work
then the door switch is bad.
the oil light will flash, the oil will overheat and burn-- the bearings will be running with out the correct pressure and they will fail causing a heavy knock just before a con-rod comes out of the side of the motor. Basically if you run a car low on oil you run the very real risk of having to spend big dollars on another engine.
I just had one replaced on my 2008 Corolla.
The location of the motor and reservoir is poor. It's on the passenger side of the car, just behind the bumper. Road salt corroded the interior of the pump. I asked the dealer to save it for me, and I also noticed that the motor exterior had cracked in 2 places!
Here's a great Youtube explanation for how the motor or the windshield washer reservoir are replaced.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRJYpVyZbJQ
The cost at my dealer was $ 158.00 Canadian. The part ("genuine Corolla part") was 67.74 which is 3 times overpriced than what you can get it for on ebay or at a local car auto parts dealership (Generic).
This is the 5th item on my car that was either poorly designed or made form poor materials. I'm beginning to think that the Japanese products just aren't what they used to be,especially for a 5 year old car that has only 54,000 KM on it!
