1995 Toyota Previa - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have the fuel pressure tested. Also do you have a Check Engine light on?

The alarm might be setting to sensitve motions detecting mode,this setting,if u come close to the car or slicely taps or touch it the alarm will go off.This setting it is not good for the car as the motions detection sensors over time will get old and will go off at anything causes some presure even slice wind just past by the car.Take ur car to the alarm tech. check it out for the motions detection sensors again change to mormal setting not sensitve mode this setting mode it actually the best,because the normal setting the door have to open before the alarm will go off.Or the alarm tech have do a replacing a new alarm unit it self,because the detection motion sensors can not do a readjustment or resetting the setting any more.

check bulbs if there okay check fuses

it's a 4 liter oil

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a tapping nosie from engine is the liffter and you can quiet them down, go to any parts store and by"Macanic in a bottle" and lower you oil level 1 quart then poor in the macanice in a bottle it is designed to take up the space between the lifters to tightn them up agine.

Hi

could be a bad pump. did you check the valve cover and see if the oil reaches the top?

hi, I think your car has the obd2 code problem, this tool can read out the code, hope help.

most likely the fuse, have you checked that? Do the other outside lights (other than headlights) work? (side markers, parking lights) If they are also out, it's almost certainly the fuse.
If that's ok, check the bulbs themselves. Sometimes they burn out one at a time, if you don't pay attention, they can all burn out before you notice.

have the diesel pump calibrated

CHECK CAR WITH CODE SCANNER FOR FAULT CODE/BRING TO GARAGE FOR SCAN CODE

Drain the cooling system. Remove the heater hoses under the hood (On the right side of the blower unit). On the right side of the heater inside the van remove the 3 screws that hold the cover on the heater core. Then renove the heater core hold down bracket. Now slide the core out the right side of the housing. On some models there are few more screws to be removed.More than the three screw access panel on the interior needs to be removed so that there is room to pull back the heater core. The two tubes passing through the firewall extend through about 2 inches so there is no sliding it to the side for extraction.----------- The detailed procedure to remove the heater core on 1995 Toyota previa is as follows:--------- Be careful not to pull on the heater core tubes when removing the heater hoses, since the heater core can be easily damaged. Click this link directly:----- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-replace-heater-core-on-toyota.html ---------------- It has all the instructions to remove and replace the heater core on Toyota previa .This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

If you are going to attempt this you need to be at least somewhat mechanical and not be afraid to make some minor modifications in order to avoid a whole lot of unnecessary work.

I am assuming that you are familiar with your vehicle and will know what I am talking about as we go along. So here we go! Remove the side cover from the right side of the HVAC box on the floorboard under the center of the dash. It is the big black plastic console under the center of the dash up against the firewall. You'll be able to see the heater core once you remove the side cover. It is copper or brass in color and has two tubes running through the firewall into the engine compartment. You cannot remove it as easily as it looks because the control linkage is in the way. The pipes running through the firewall block it from being able to slide out and the glove box hangs down and obstructs it from sliding out more than a couple of inches anyway.

Here's what you do: Disconnect the bottom hose from the heater core on the other side of the firewall. Antifreeze will start to pour out as soon as you remove the hose so have a bucket ready to catch it. Now disconnect the top hose and use a garden hose to flush out the heater core through the top pipe. Once the water runs clear you can turn off the hose and move on. You do this in the event that any fluid spills inside of the van later. Antifreeze is sticky, it stains auto carpeting and it has an odor to it as well.

Now back inside of the van remove the control rod and the linkage plate that blocks the heater core from sliding out of the HVAC box and remove the pipe clamp that holds the pipes in place. If there is any water left in the heater core you will most likely need an empty bowl for the next step. Take a Dremel (or other rotary tool) and using a metal cut off wheel cut the pipes off of the heater core about 1 1/2" out from the side. Once that is done remove the cut off pipe pieces and throw them in your recycling bin. At this point you still can't slide the heater core out because the glove box is in the way.

Here's how move forward: Remove the glove box lid and then remove the two bolts at the back. There is an electronic control module behind the glove box that the bolts went into. It will most likely slide down after it is unbolted. Next use a small flat screw driver to remove the right corner piece, which is part of the vent system and just pops out if you do it right. Next there are two screws located just under the bottom lip of the dash that hold the front of the glove box to the dash. You'll need a stubby Philips screwdriver to get them out and will most likely need to lay upside down on the floorboard to unscrew them properly.

This is not for the faint of heart now. Take your Dremel in hand and cut the interior of your glove box in half horizontally, which is pretty much right at the middle of the two bolt holes in the back. Cut the glove box from where it hits the dash on the left around the back to the part that you popped out earlier and then on the other side to the dash. Next pull out the bottom part. You might have to twist it a bit to get it out.

Don't worry you can pop it back into place later and the bolt in the back and the screws in the front will support it and all you'll need to do is run some black duct tape or Gorilla Tape around the cut. You can't see it and if you are so anal that you stand the thought of your glove box being less than pristine then you need to go and pay the $800.00 to $1,200.00 to have this job done.

Now with all of this done all you have to do is slide the heater core out. To replace it you need to buy about three feet of 3/4 inch heater hose and four appropriate size hose clamps. Obviously you'll need the new heater core as well. When you have these things take your nice shiny and new $175.00 heater core and cut the pipes off of it with your Dremel leaving about 1 1/2" of straight pipe at the side. By the way Kragens Auto (AKA Schuck's or Checker Auto) can get you a heater core for $126.85.
Now use a grinding bit or a deburring bit or sandpaper to smooth the cut pipe edges out. Install the new heater core by simply sliding it in place making sure you move the flap that you'll see in the slot back. Now all you have to do is run heater hose through the rubber grommet in the firewall to the heater core. I used some epoxy inside of the hose ends to insure a good seal and cinched them down with hose clamps.

Hook the hoses up on the other side and then reattach the linkage you disconnected earlier and cut the side cover from the HVAC unit with your Dremel in order to fit the new hose routing. I cut it just above the edge where it turns up. That way it protects the hose ends from getting kicked by your passenger. Then install your glove box, screw and bolt it in place, tape the cut you made in it and check your coolant level after you start and warm up the vehicle enough to run the heater.

If you ever have to replace the heater core again it will take you about 45 minutes to an hour tops.

here u go

upluging hot side battery.

under neath the vehicle on the side of the engine block.

Try replacing the distributor cap and the plug leads, cap first.

If you are looking at the engine, notice the black hose at the top of the radiator and follow it to the engine. Where it connects is called the thermostat housing. Take this larger black hose off and unbolt this housing<--usually just 2 bolts, and the thermostat is under it.

If you look down at the engine and notice the larger black hose coming from the top of the radiator to the engine block. Where this hose connects to the engine is called the thermostat housing. If you take the hose off, and unbolt this housing, the thermostat is underneath and easy to swap out.

the engine cooling system thermostat could be stuck open. This will cause the engine to take forever to warm up, especially in cold weather. The thermostat is inexpensive and easy to change. A new one could fix your problem quickly.