Top 10 1995 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers

all the wiring diagrams can be found here for free.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006f4db

hope you get it solved.

Ps dont forget to rate the solution. Thanks

I have a similar problem with one of my Toyota Corollas. It's a 95 model with the 1.8L engine (7A-FE, automatic). But unlike yours, it has plenty of power while running. Here's what it does. Occasionally the engine misses. Sometimes it will die. This is most likely to happen when you start the car and put it in reverse and start rolling without giving the engine time to adjust. I've been told by some customers that it will die sometimes when coming to a stop. But this has never happened when I drive it. I don't think it's a fuel issue because the car runs just fine when it's running.

Here's what I've tried so far:

1. Replaced spark plugs and wires.
2. Used gasoline additive fuel injector cleaner.
3. Checked air filter.
4. Checked vacuum hoses for leaks.
5. Replaced PCV valve and hoses.
6. Cleaned the air intake and throttle body with carburetor cleaner.

So far there is no change in the problem.

What I plan to do next:

1. Check the throttle position sensor.
2. Check the MAF sensor.
3. Adjust the idle via the set screw.

After that I have no idea what to do next if the problem persists. The check engine light is not on so I don't think there are any error codes. Will let you know.

Frank
Frank's Friendly Cars Maui Car Rental
www.MauiCarRental.biz

malibluert: YOUR IN LUCK! This series engine is simple and the references aren't hard to find. READY???????
IF you are just trying to reset the belt at the top and have not remover the crank pulley, bring the crank around to Top dead center on the # 1 cylinder,. It will read Zero degrees on the timing mark scale.
Up top, look at the cam gear closely You will see that there are 5 spokes which support the actual gear. Look closer and you will see that one of these spokes has a small hole in it about 3/4th of the way towards the outside of the gear. Position the gear to where that hole is at 12:00 PM. NOW, if you look thorough the hole, you should should see a small notch that the hole should be centered on. If not, move the gear until you can look through the hole and the notch falls dead center. At that point in time, you have the crank ant camshaft in perfect time with each other.
When you put the belt on, make sure that the side which is slack is the tensioner side. You should be able to slip the belt on, matching the teeth with the teeth on the gears to where one side is fairly tight and you can not roll the cam counter clockwise.
IF you are replacing the belt, you have the crank pulley off and you position the woodruff key straight up at 12:00 PM and the procedures are all the same other than that. when you set the tension. A good rule of thumb is to find the longest span of belt, and with your thumb and forefinger twist the belt. if it twists to 45 degrees toward the block, it's perfect. Any more or less, needs to be reset.
I hope my answer suffices. A picture wouldn't be any more clear.
Let me know how you did.
NOTE: This engine does NOT bend valves when a timing belt fails.

alfred11s: No, you don't have to lift the motor. You do have to remove the right hand engine mounting insulator.
I will give you the procedure for the removal to access the pump:.
1.Drain engine coolant
2. remove right hand engine mounting insulator
3. Remove #2 and # 3 timing belt covers
4. Remove front engine mounting insulator as follows
a. remove hole cover
b. remove the 2 bolts from the mounting
c. remove the nut, the through-bolt and front engine mounting insulator
5. Remove the electric cooling fan
6.Disconnect engine wire remove the bolt and 2 nuts and disconnect the engine wire.
Water pump removal instructions:
1. Disconnect the crank sensor connector from the dipstick tube
2, Remove the dipstick tube and dipstick (only 1 bolt holds it)
3. Disconnect the water temp sensor from harness
4, Remove the two nuts and the # 2 water inlet from the hose.
5.Remove the three bolts which retain the water pump!
CAUTION! try to keep antifreeze off the timing belt. Put rags down and pack them where the coolant would normally spill.
WELL alfred11s: My answer should be a pleasant surprise.
Print it out and carry it out to the car.
If I've done well, maybe you can comment on what you think

The relay and fuse is located under the hood in the relay box. It will be labeled on the lid. If fuse is good, then test the relay. Pull it out and with a test light see if there is power. If there is then remember that one. Have some one turn the key on and find another power wire. There should be 2 powers.If there is only one power then there maybe a problem in the ignition switch. If there is 2 powers then you need to get to the top of the fuel tank and see if power is getting to the pump. The power at the pump will be there for only a few seconds once the key is turned on and then will drop off. Let us know how it goes.

The center console needs to be removed, pull the shift plate plastic cover off, remove two bolts inside the console storage box, remove the phillips screws that are visible, the front center storage box also has to be removed, the bulb is located on the left side of the shifter from underneath.

Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Her is your wiring breakdown:

1995 Toyota Corolla Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: None
Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4′
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue
Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2′
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White

Hope that help you out.

cylinder head bolts:

step one: 22 Ft-lbs.
step two: tighten additional 90 degrees
step three: tighten additional 90 degrees

Hope it helps

On the back side of the lighter there is a fusable link between the incoming power wire and the metal tab that connects power to the lighter. This is a very small wire, bent 90 degrees, between two tabs that are mounted on the same small screw. It looks like the incoming power tab and the power to the lighter would be connected, but they are insulated from each other on the screw. If the fusable link is blown, you will have power at the power connector on the back of the lighter, but no power to the center terminal inside the lighter.