20 Most Recent 1995 Toyota Corolla - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Sounds like when you pulled the cv axles you may have unplugged an electrical connector or vacuum line from the transmission. If this is not the case, did you make sure the transmission fluid levels are proper?

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1999 Toyota Corolla Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring DiagramCar Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/YellowCar Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: GrayCar Radio Ground Wire: BrownCar Radio Illumination Wire: GreenCar Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/ACar Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/ACar Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/ACar Stereo Amplifier Location: N/ACar Audio Front Speakers Size: N/ACar Audio Front Speakers Location: N/ALeft Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): PinkLeft Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): VioletRight Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light GreenRight Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): BlueCar Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/ACar Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/ALeft Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): BlackLeft Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): YellowRight Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): RedRight Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White

sounds like u have a gas leak somewhere. check under the car on the floor see if u can see anything leaking also trace the gas line from the tank to the motor for leaks. u need to get this fixed before u have a fire.

sorry but it looks like you will be in that tank again. pull the pump out and plug it into the car wiring outside the tank and move the float up and wait 60 seconds. if it doesn't move the gauge, replace the sender (with a new one or maybe with the old one, if you still have it) and test it before you install it

"a little" gas is not enough to start a fuel injected engine. if you have a fuel line disconnected and turn that key on , it will shoot gas all over the place. it can make a big mess if you are not prepared to catch it in a container. if it is pumping some gas out each time than you should assume the fuse is good. sounds like a bad pump. have fuel pressure and fuel volume checked

you need to have put the new sensor in the right place. before removing the old one you need to make were it was. and put new one to these makings. if you have not done this you will need to have the engine hooked up to an ecu reader and reset the sensor to the engine. you may be able to get it done with out this if there is a muck mark on the sensor housing area and remove the sensor and put back in the clean part of the housing. only other way is moving it while the engine is running but you can make it worse or out of sync more and engine will not run at all.

20w/50 is good for your car especially if it has a few miles on the clock. It is the viscosity rating for the oil and is relevant in ambient temperature areas when a thinner oil 10w/20 is required for freezing or higher oil 30w/50 for high temperatures . What is relevant is if you have a cat converter The letters after the viscosity rating They will be SC--Sd -SA and so on and relate to the suitability of the oil when used in an engine with a cat converter or with close tolerances and special metals used in the engine construction. . The details are normally on the bottle label and will refer to specific makes of cars . You could even run diesel oil 20w/ 50 in you engine and it will clean out all the sludge because of the heavier detergent additive . It only means replacing the oil filter every 5000miles as it filters out the sludge.

your guessing, because it didnt in ours, USA. so?> its an old car, all old cars smell, how could they not? do tell. but if its coming from vents, the spray the chambers with A./C condensate tray flush . google that, its not easy to do. the system is closed, and very hard to gain access.'

the EFI will NOT inject if it sees no spark.!!! by DESIGN. all EFI does that. Gasoline. engines. so fix spark. 1st. IT'S BAD so... this works on all cars. gas. ok, so its 95 toy corolla, no engine size stated.or country

1. fuses good.
2. CEL lamp glows key on, if not EFI will be dead. see #1
3. this car has CHeck jumper "diagnostic jumper"
4. insert the jumper ,per page on that. lost it?
5. crank engine for 5 seconds.
6. release key, do NOT turn off,yet.
7. watch CEL flash out it's errors. CALLED DTC's
8. post them. or look them up. you now know why the ECU cut injection to stop a FIRE. (flames)
9. on new cars we use a scan tool .to do the same thing.
10. if no errors, then the Highvoltage side is bad, COIL or the ignitor.
11. Most PCM's can report dead ignitor.

the ignitor is driven by the PCM/ECU and monitored at all times scan it. and win.

The general rule is to change your oil and filter every 3000 miles, some heavy duty oils say 5000 miles. If you want to be sure go 3000 miles, change oil and filter and clean or replace your air filter and your car should last a long time.

Check idle speed control valve, throttle body and valve clearance.

Hi sounds like you have a timing belt problem, pull the distributor cap and confirm that the rotor is turning

sounds like the gas cap isnt releasing pressure have you replaced it

just 1 click per detent, that is normal. and only while doing the move? never driving.? id say TAKE IT IN. ask any mech. they will tell you. for sure. we cant hear it hear so all guessing will be, well, just wild.

There are a couple electrical boxes under the hood on the drivers side. It's in one of those boxes. Look on top of or under the box for a diagram indicating which one is the fuel pump relay.