20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The oil pressure is lower than normal, probably due to worn main and big end bearings. So long as you do not hear knocking from the engine when accelerating, you could just go to an engine oil one grade heavier, eg 20W-50 instead of 10W-40. Eventually though you will need to have the engine overhauled or install a new short motor. .

dont worry about that you will have to turn the motor over 40 to 50 time before those timing belt marks line up again if your pulley marks line up correctly thats all you have to worry about

I would pull the blower motor out and check the water condensation drain at the bottom of the blower motor housing, it is likely plugged with leaves or a mouse nest or both.

I would find the fuse & take it out.

Tune up on it. Could be a bad fuel pump our filter.

You may have a frozen cable to the actuator, or the actuator itself may be bad. Check also for vacuum leak(s). Peace. God bless.

Check wiring under/behind the switch chances are it is a "dead short" which is keeping your light on. Look for bare wire(s). Peace. God bless

mayb your diff lock switch was jam even there r free but it still giving signal to meter panel

Please describe the engine code which is printed on the cylinder block or on the chassis plate. For example 2L, 1KZ-T etc. Thanks.

sorry no idea without a good look myself ,could be anything giving this problem

To bypass the factory security would be difficult or car thieves would have a field day! your best bet would be to get a replacement alarm key fob and disarm the vehicle that way!

Have you serviced your transmission latley ? like filter and fluid change ? just a thought .. first thing I would do . then go from there. Jerry

I have locked my keys in my cruiser & found this the easiest way to get it open.get a wire coat hanger & straighten it out , make a hook on one end, now slide it down the drivers window between the glass & the rubber seal push it down about a foot or so & turn 90 degrees then slowly pull it up until you feel it grab on the rod that operates the door latch . You will know if you have it as the door button on top will move as you pull the wire up wards to unlatch , it may take a couple of shots , or you may be lucky & get it first go , dont forget to turn the wire back 90 degrees in order to pull it back out. Good Luck Mick

If it's cranking, then the ground wire to the engine block is fine, Lee. It's possible that the little ground wire at the back of the engine, grounding to the body, got damaged, though - that's show up as no interior lights, no dash lights, no idiot lights, and any gauges failing to work. Easy fix, if that's what happened - run a heavy (#6) wire from the battery's negative (-) post to a big screw or bolt somewhere on the body near the battery. But... there may be other issues getting in the way. Go through the standard checks - pull OBD codes from the computer, check fuel pressure & flow rate, check spark, check fuses. It's possible you pinched a wire between the back of the engine & the firewall, or pulled a wire connector loose from something. It DOES have gas, right?

I would first try & move the steering wheel as you are trying to turn the ignition lock , it may take a few tries & also a fair bit of force on the steering wheel . This problem usually occurs with the steering wheel turned , ie the front wheels are not straight.Hope this solves your problem , let me know how you goCheers , Mick

Could be sensor or float in tank , connect the wire on the tank unit to earth to see if fault it is tank unit there or the dashbord gauge .It should move if there is power

Check wiring going to the sensor.,

When u rev the engine the needle should move if it's working.