20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Corolla - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Oh, about 8 years ago.

this is by far the best place to get service manuals, www.helminc.com

hope this helps

It is very difficult to get to... You will need a slide hammer or punch and prying tool to get it out.. I would assume that if it is a 1994 it is old rusted and leaking. You may have more than one plug in the engine. Replace with brass plugs to prevent distortion and future rusting.

you need to get it serviced, we can hear no noise here. and step one dont drive it, it can be a danger you and OTHERS. find the noise source.? are you moving car,? or not?> noise from engine. noise braking noise coasting, turning, shifting, acclerating, over bumps? we cant guess ANY of that. you must say.

light bulb burned out -- replace

stock or not stock if stock why ask this here, with no country , we can shop at your stores here, if no in uSA. (as we are) this is a Calif forum. so..... how much money, or how much work, or ? what? you can kit it, nobody sells new relic stock carbs. our 95s are not Carb, so , are you not confusing TBI- EFI from carb as many do? if wanting to use an aftermarket carb the steps for a weber are near infinity, and a harely CV carb tiny. so, nobody on earth is going to tell you how to dyno tune a carb hear. or with wide band add on oxy meter, as i do. did you call toyota and ask? or look for a carb kit then ask your mech to service yours with the kit. that be best way. KIT IT. 1995 toyota corolla right? posted under 1994 our 4a engine is injected, there are no carb here, in 1995 post country post symtoms and win

4afe or 7aFE engine? as always for ever and ever, check all fuses. check it cranking some ECU dont power pump until cranked. the ones that key on power are 3second, can you run that fast? no. so crank. if the fuel pump relay closing and sending full 12vdc to pump wire.? no? then fuse is blown if cel lamp is not on key on fuses, are blown or lamp or ecu bad. fix lamp first it must glow, that glowing means ECU passes, basic self tests. (like a pc doing P.O.S.T) (i rebuild and tune ECU's) do you need a schematic,(alldata.com has it) books are amazing things, no? im looking here, seen it many times. the magic fuel pump relay on the 4AFE. it is really a 2 coil relay forming what is called logic "AND"gate 7a works same,.... just looked the ECU enables coil A with LC command line (software) 0v here. the main relay must close and 12vdc out to pump relay then the driver cranks, and relay coil B is activated. and pump spins. always crank and test. see why? if you need bigger photo ask, ..... if the relay fails to close cranked, check that the crank signal makes it to (12v) to top left coil below. if not there will NEVER be fuel. see crank sig below in red.

Because aircon uses a lot of power, it causes the revs to drop and the car to use more fuel. Just a fact of life. If you don't NEED to use the aircon - don't use it. And if you do need to use it, expect expenses to rise.

there will be a dead short in the wire from the switch to the starter or starter relay( may be faulty)

It sounds like a possible problem with you alternator not providing enough volts/amps to keep the lights steady. If it one light, it could be the bulb going out - buy a bulb from your local auto shop and try that. If it is both lights, you should have your alternator and battery checked at a Toyota dealer, local repair shop or if your handy with tools and don;t mind the work, pull them out yourself and take them to a local autoparts shop where they can test them for free. If either fail the test, replace them.

You will have a leak from the pump, pressure hoses or the rack. You will have to get the system washed down and inspected for the leak, most common problem is the steering rack leaking, this will leak oil onto the exhaust and cause your smoking problem, start her.


Remove the power steering pump pulley.
Place a drain pan under the vehicle. Important: Cap or plug the ends of the power steering hoses to prevent fluid loss.
Disconnect the power brake booster inlet hose from the power brake booster.



Disconnect the power steering cooler hose from the power steering pump.



Disconnect the power steering pump remote reservoir hose from the power steering pump.



Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the power steering pump rear mounting bracket nut.
Lower the vehicle.
Loosen the accessory bracket bolts and nut. Pull the accessory bracket forward.
Remove the power steering pump mounting bolts.
Remove the power steering pump and the power brake booster inlet hose from the vehicle.
Remove the power brake booster inlet hose from the power steering pump.

if the check engine light is on then you will have to have the code pulled so you know what tests have to be done to find the cause of the problem.

what is the job? what is apart, the whole head? put back and engine, or the head, or the cams. what? alldata.com has that, log in and read, then ask questions? Gen8 car (USA car?) changed mid year.... so..... country matters. only a DOHC cam engine hint, you dont know what engine is there and are dismantling it? wild guess. 1ZZ-FE that engine? here is the USA line up 1997 - NZ - DOHC

• 1997 - 1.5 L (1497 cc) 1NZ
• 1GZ-FE
• 4S
• 4E and 5E
• 2TZ
• 1ZZ
• AT THE LEAST , LOTS OF DOHC USED IN 1997 !!!

SO WHAT ENGINE? What country, if by chance USA, its all here , all the time, just look. 15 bucks. cheap. http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html

could be the blower itself have u tried before u installed the switch to use a jumper wire to verify a bad switch?

There are two possible problems affecting your car. The first is the head gasket. The second is the timing chain. Each can make your Corolla perform as you describe it. There is one way to find out quickly if the engine involves the head gasket, or not. That way is a compression test. This test does require some specialized equipment and knowledge. It is best to leave it to a trained technician. When the test is run, the ignition removes the spark plug from the block and inserts the testing device. The compression of each cylinder is measure in this way. If the reading that results is too low on two cylinders, it is very likely that your car's problem is the head gasket. When a head gasket blows out, a weakened piece of the head gasket fails, leaving a rather large vacant space behind. This compromises the engine's sealing and its vacuum balance. Two cylinders are affected by the gasket failure and their compression tests will show low, but not failed compression. Your Corolla will perform just as you describe it. If you have the compression test performed and it shows the compression on all four cylinders is correct. Then it is time to replace the timing chain.

Yes, there is illumination behind the heater control panel.

You need to remove the center inst cluster upper (radio) & lower finish (heater) panels to gain access to the heater control; the light socket is behind the heater panel.

sounds like a stuck blend door

Hello Candace , you cant get the whole thing but your awesome to include year make model motor size that really helps we can only load 1 image here so ill give you my source auto zone go to there site and log in (its all free) (and they never load you with spam .)list your vehicle then go to repair guide then you'll get a drop down and go from there you may have to look around the site but its the best place with out having to buy a motor manual but again manuals only cost 20.00 and that's cheep for all the info you get. I really hope this helped you if it did please let me know .thanks . Woody