My 1993 Corolla quit starting. 4 cyl, 1.6. No spark, as tested with a timing light. 12 volts gets to distributor in the smaller connector. I bought a salvaged distributor. Same problemo. The auto wrecker says he tested it on an engine and it worked when he sent it. The coil and igniter are inside the distributor. (He suggested they were outside, on the firewall but I can't find anything like that, and internet searches seem to indicate the ones inside are all there are.) I don't see any cam sensor outside the distributor either. There are two magnetic pickups inside, one four times per revolution, one once per revolution. The coil has low resistance continuity between the primaries and 6K ohm to the button on top. The cap and rotor look almost new. Is there anything outside the distributor that could be the problem? Or did the guy sell me a bad one?
Pull the cap and look at the connector on the inside, they like to go gooey.
Also more than once I have had modules "tested" that said good only to find out' they were bad.
Check all connections are clean, and that battery is charged - and holding charge. If it is more than 3 yrs old- suspect it.
Try it after cleaning and charging battery.
If still no-go, look for any connections from distributor to ECU. They can run without connection, so try without it. If it fires up - problem lies with the ECU inhibiting the distributor.
Check that all leads are open circuit - and not shorting or providing a current leak.
Hoe this helps.
Posted on Jun 12, 2008
Changed fuse and horn relay with parts that I know are good. Still no power supply to horn. Is there a fuse somewhere in between the steering column and the fuse box. What wire in the steering column is for the horn? How do I access the steering wheel horn switch (where the pad sets off the horn)
Usually the wire from the steering wheel is Green w/Red and the wire to the horn from the fuse box is White. There is only one fuse, sometimes shared with the emergency lights. Check to see if there is power to the horn itself with a volt meter.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
WHERE CAN I DOWNLOAD HAYES OR/AND CHILTONS AUTO REPAIR MANUAL FREE ONLINE? I NEED TO REBUILD AN ALTENATOR.
THANK YOU
If you email me at [email protected] i can send you the instructions that Toyota has.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
I got 2 new tires about 9 months ago and 2 more new tires about 6 months ago. I had an alignment done when i put the second set of tires on. I noticed first my drivers rear tire was wearing in the middle. Not sure exactly when I first noticed wear. Now my passenger rear tire is wearing in the middle. Each time I took the car in, they checked the air. From the beginning they said that my rear struts were worn. They also said that the struts are causing the tire wear.
Both front tires have no excessive wear.
I took the car in to another mechanic to get my check engine light turned off. He said that the wear in the middle of the tires is not from the struts, but from over inflation.
Two different tire shops have checked the air in the tires. Now I'm confused.
Please help!!
Also,
Is it safe to drive with the rear tires smooth in the middle?
Thank you,
Gary
problem is with over inflating the tires,causing middle tread wear,as long as you have more the 3/32 tread wear in the middle than you are ok.always set tire pressure when cold at around 33psi,check tire inflation sticker on dar jam for exact tire pressure
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
toyota 4A-FE connecting rod bolt torque spec ? ft-lbs?
what is the torque specs on 4afe 1.6 toyota corolla connecting rod & cylinder head
Posted on Sep 04, 2012
1993 toyota corolla, problem no spark to spark plugs. Fuel system ok replaced ignition coil, igniter,distributor cap, wires and spark plugs. all fuses ok am about to replace engine control module. I just want to know if there is anything I missed because it don't seem to be anything else and ecu is very expensive, I hope the problem still does'nt continue after replacement. Please help someone.
Check the ignition relay and all the main relays on the battery.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
leaking oil left side of motor
Since it's not clear whether you mean driver side or passenger side, I will address both.
On the driver side, the most common leak is from the distributor. This can be caused by the distributor shaft exterior o-ring, or it can be caused by the distributor shaft interior bearing seal. To determine which it is, remove the distributor. First detach the spark plug wires, then undo the bolt that holds the distributor to the head, then pull the distributor out of the head. You will see the o-ring on the exterior of the distributor shaft. This is a $0.50 part, so just replace it with a new one as long as you have the distributor out. The bearing seal is on the inside of the distributor. To inspect it, undo the three bolts holding the cap to the distributor body. Pop the rotor off the shaft, the unclip the inside plastic cover. If you see any oil inside the distributor or the distributor cap, this means the seal is leaking and must be replaced. You can get a seal and bearing replacement kit from kbox.ca. Or, you can just buy a new distributor. Note: To get the distributor back in place you must align the shaft correctly with the notch in the camshaft. There is a right way and a wrong way. If the shaft seems to be aligned but does not go in, pull it out and rotate it 180 degrees, then put it back in.
The other possibility on the driver side of the engine is the main seal between the engine and transmission. If this is the case, you would have to either drop the transmission or pull the engine to replace it.
What if the oil is leaking on the passenger side? If it's coming from behind the timing belt cover, there is a camshaft seal and a crankshaft seal, both of which can leak oil. To get to them, you will have to remove all accessory belts and the alternator, remove the exterior crankshaft pulley, remove the engine mount (support the engine) and the timing belt covers, remove the timing belt, then the crankshaft pulley and/or camshaft pulley, whichever is necessary to replace the leaking seal(s).
Where else could oil be leaking from? If it's coming out from near the top of the engine, that's the valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. While you're at it, replace the spark plug tube seals.
If it's coming out from near the bottom of the engine, it could be the oil pan gasket. Remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.
One more possibility for oil leakage: The head gasket. But in this case you would have noticed other symptoms besides just an oil leak.
Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.
Posted on Mar 21, 2010
I cannot remove the 100 Amp fuse to replace it. How do you get it out of the fuse box?
The fuse link is bolted in from the two side in the fusebox.you have to un bolt the whole fusebox so you can raise it and if you look at the sides there are two side panels that can be moved down so you can get a socket or spanner on the two bolts apprx 10mm. undo them and raise the fuse out and put the new one in and tighten up the bolts again.
Posted on Dec 14, 2010
how remove f link from fuse box in 97 corolla
f link?
FixYa
Posted on Aug 27, 2011
How do I remove an aftermarket Engine Immobiliser that looks like a stereo plug that i've almost lost twice and my brother thinks it's hooked up to the fuel system I don't want the stress of almost losing it again! I want it removed I'll admit I don't know much about engine immobilizers but i know a bit!
Most immobilisers on the year car 1993 and some newwer one are connected to starter wiring under the dash, and what it does is it cuts the power wire from the ignition switch in half and sends it through the module and to relay, you will need to follow the wires and you will see the wires coming down from the ignition switch, one will be cut in two and go into immobil wiring you will dissconnect them and reconnect them back together, the wire is color coded so theres no mixing wires and then the rest of the wiring will be to power and ground and so on, all these other wires can be removed or left there. once you connect the main stating wire thats the main wire, a quick thing to see if this is the way it works is to try and start the car without the chip and see if when you turn the key the engine should not try to start, it should do nothing just dash lights light up but no engine spin, if this is what happens then this is the way to dissable it. good day.
Posted on Dec 06, 2011
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