1993 Toyota Corolla - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if it cranks but wont start check for spark by sticking sparkplug in end of wire rest on block have someone crank if there is spark it is a fuel pump issue if no spark check crank sensor

Most likely just jarred the coil wire out. Check that the coil wire is all the way into the coil.

the TPS or idle control solenoid faulty sticky throttle body (can be cleaned ) Is the check engine light on if so there will be a fault code in the ECU

Ign is for ign , stop is for brake lights, s heater is for blower motor, ecu is for computer, ecu ign is for distributor, are you looking for a specific problem

One fuse at a time. It was a lot cheaper thank you
:TC:

I found this useful diagram at troubleshoot vehicle.com. It answers your question. Fuse box is located below steering column. Driver Side Fuse Panel (1993-1996 Toyota Corolla) December 21, 2013 Updated: December 21, 2013 Written by: Abraham Torres-Arredondo In the table below you'll find the fuse location and description of the fuses of the driver side under-dash fuse box on 1.6L and 1.8L 1993-1996 Toyota Corolla. The fuse box is located on the driver side of the dash, below the steering column. 1993-1996 Toyota Corolla Driver Side Fuse Box Fuse Fuse Name Amps 1 Cigarette Lighter, Digital Clock, A/C System, A/T Shift Lock, Alarm, SRS Airbags 20 2 Tail, Parking & License Lights, Instrument Panel and Daytime Running Lights 15 3 Fuel Injection, Cooling Fans, Battery Discharge Light 10 4 Cruise Control System, Daytime Running Lights 10 5 Fuel Injection System 7.5 6 Stop Lights, Cruise Control, Shift Lock System, Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) System 15 7 Turn Signals, Emergency Flashers 10 8 Starting System, Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) System, Shift Lock System 15 9 Gauges, Reminder Lights, Back-up Lights, A/C System, Daytime Running Lights 10 10 Front and Rear Wiper/Washer System 20

You found the right place right time buddy.. i know a lot of websites for repairs and manuals that can really help u..

CHECK YOUR VECHICLE SPEED SENSOR WIRE FOR DAMAGE.OR THE MAGNET GEAR ON TRANSMISSION OUT PUT SHAFT IS BROKEN OR DAMAGE.IF THEY ARE GOOD YOUR PROBLEM IS IN THE DASH.BROKEN SPEEDOMETER.

It is keyless entry remote

Some possibilities: --the choke cable or the choke linkage on the carburetor is sticking, holding the revs too high. --the gas pedal linkage, the pedal cable, or its linkage to the carburetor are sticking. --the engine computer (if it has one) is failing, or has poor connections, or isn't grounded properly. --various other sensors (if you have them) could be failing. --the mechanism (computerized or mechanical) calling for more fuel to the carburetor when the air conditioning (if you have it) is turned on could be sticking or not working properly. You should be able to test most of these possibilities while the car is standing still, with the engine running. Start with the choke -- have a helper move the knob and see if the engine responds properly, especially in the "off" position. Then have the helper operate the gas pedal while you watch what's going on with the carburetor. Have your helper turn the a/c on and off. If you see a mechanical linkage to the carburetor move when the a/c is turned on, it should move back to its original position when it's turned off. If any of these linkages (including the gas pedal linkage under the dash) are sticking, try spraying the affected area with a lubricant (like WD-40). If that doesn't help, spray lubricant into the cables, or replace them. If all else fails, carefully check all vacuum lines in the engine compartment. An intermittent leak (or blockage) could be affecting engine speed.

ground wire problems

try up under the dash on the steering column

do your car have an oil control valve if so check it

you have to remove the tranny the clutch and pressure plate are located on the engine and the throw out bearing and arm are on the tranny make sure you replace it all

it's very simple go to the given link and get the manual with picture and diagram and fix your problem http://toolsnyou.com/

probably add some freon.. that should cure it.. if your system doesn't leak too bad

I agree with Ed. See tips at the link below. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Pretty hard to diagnose without a scan tool to check the fuel trims. rough guess is either a vacuum leak or bad coolant temp sensor. But I sure wouldn't replace either of those without seeing the results from the scan tool

Replacing the clutch of a front wheel drive car more often requires the transmission removal than the engine and that means removing the front wheels and partially dismantling the brakes and front steering/suspension in order to remove the drive shafts. Such rotating parts if not refitted correctly can cause vibration. Whatever the reason for the vibration and stalling, you just paid to have a problem solved and not to have new problems created so I advise you to return the car to the repairer as soon as possible for free-of-charge rectification and don't drive it anywhere else or drive it at high speed until the cause has been established - just in case something didn't get tightened...

problem is with over inflating the tires,causing middle tread wear,as long as you have more the 3/32 tread wear in the middle than you are ok.always set tire pressure when cold at around 33psi,check tire inflation sticker on dar jam for exact tire pressure