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1993 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers
I have a 1998 Toyota xl, It runs rough until warm
Pretty hard to diagnose without a scan tool to check the fuel trims. rough guess is either a vacuum leak or bad coolant temp sensor. But I sure wouldn't replace either of those without seeing the results from the scan tool
Toyota Corolla CSi hatch revving too high
Some possibilities:
--the choke cable or the choke linkage on the carburetor is sticking, holding the revs too high.
--the gas pedal linkage, the pedal cable, or its linkage to the carburetor are sticking.
--the engine computer (if it has one) is failing, or has poor connections, or isn't grounded properly.
--various other sensors (if you have them) could be failing.
--the mechanism (computerized or mechanical) calling for more fuel to the carburetor when the air conditioning (if you have it) is turned on could be sticking or not working properly.
You should be able to test most of these possibilities while the car is standing still, with the engine running. Start with the choke -- have a helper move the knob and see if the engine responds properly, especially in the "off" position. Then have the helper operate the gas pedal while you watch what's going on with the carburetor.
Have your helper turn the a/c on and off. If you see a mechanical linkage to the carburetor move when the a/c is turned on, it should move back to its original position when it's turned off.
If any of these linkages (including the gas pedal linkage under the dash) are sticking, try spraying the affected area with a lubricant (like WD-40). If that doesn't help, spray lubricant into the cables, or replace them.
If all else fails, carefully check all vacuum lines in the engine compartment. An intermittent leak (or blockage) could be affecting engine speed.
How do I take off thebrakes pressuer switch
Hi Tom:
If you open the hood (bonnet) and look at the brake master cylinder there should be an electrical connection. The thing on the cylinder that the wires connect to will be the switch.
I'd try unpluging it and then use a continuity meter to try to check the switch function.
DEFINITELY replace the switch if it is not functioning correctly.
It would be DANGEROUS to simply dis-connect it and then drive without brake lights.
I am working on a 1993toyota Corolla 1.8 no fire changed whole distributed assembly tested power coming to coil it's good still no spark checked all fuses there ok any sugestions
if the coil is tested fully and is good where have you checked for it being good? have you checked if the HT lead from the coil to the distributor is carrying power? If you have power at the distributor cap , all the contacts are good, the rotor is fine, (check current at the distributor cap centre pin) then the likely problem is the machanism for firing, i.e. Hall sensor . I would check all the HT leads, distributor cap, rotor etc. you should carry out the checks systematically. I.E. First check at the coil with a multi meter. Then check at the end of the Ht lead from coil to distributor , actually within the lead itself , for current. then attach it to distributor if it shows a current...if you are getting a current from the distributors centre pin the issue is probably the cap itself, the rotor arm, the firing system, it will probably be electronic as mechanical distributors went out some years before I think. or if that is okay, the leads themselves. I would guess that is is distributor cap or firing system related'
Where is sunroof fuse?
I do not know the exact location but you have 2 fuse boxes, one under the hood on drivers side and one inside by the left foot kick panel.
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