Top 20 1993 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers

You found the right place right time buddy.. i know a lot of websites for repairs and manuals that can really help u..

I agree with Ed. See tips at the link below. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

probably add some freon.. that should cure it.. if your system doesn't leak too bad

it's very simple go to the given link and get the manual with picture and diagram and fix your problem http://toolsnyou.com/

Pretty hard to diagnose without a scan tool to check the fuel trims. rough guess is either a vacuum leak or bad coolant temp sensor. But I sure wouldn't replace either of those without seeing the results from the scan tool

Replacing the clutch of a front wheel drive car more often requires the transmission removal than the engine and that means removing the front wheels and partially dismantling the brakes and front steering/suspension in order to remove the drive shafts. Such rotating parts if not refitted correctly can cause vibration. Whatever the reason for the vibration and stalling, you just paid to have a problem solved and not to have new problems created so I advise you to return the car to the repairer as soon as possible for free-of-charge rectification and don't drive it anywhere else or drive it at high speed until the cause has been established - just in case something didn't get tightened...

Some possibilities: --the choke cable or the choke linkage on the carburetor is sticking, holding the revs too high. --the gas pedal linkage, the pedal cable, or its linkage to the carburetor are sticking. --the engine computer (if it has one) is failing, or has poor connections, or isn't grounded properly. --various other sensors (if you have them) could be failing. --the mechanism (computerized or mechanical) calling for more fuel to the carburetor when the air conditioning (if you have it) is turned on could be sticking or not working properly. You should be able to test most of these possibilities while the car is standing still, with the engine running. Start with the choke -- have a helper move the knob and see if the engine responds properly, especially in the "off" position. Then have the helper operate the gas pedal while you watch what's going on with the carburetor. Have your helper turn the a/c on and off. If you see a mechanical linkage to the carburetor move when the a/c is turned on, it should move back to its original position when it's turned off. If any of these linkages (including the gas pedal linkage under the dash) are sticking, try spraying the affected area with a lubricant (like WD-40). If that doesn't help, spray lubricant into the cables, or replace them. If all else fails, carefully check all vacuum lines in the engine compartment. An intermittent leak (or blockage) could be affecting engine speed.

Most likely just jarred the coil wire out. Check that the coil wire is all the way into the coil.

Good day this motor / on the crank pulley is it gear with teeth or plat with hole

the TPS or idle control solenoid faulty sticky throttle body (can be cleaned ) Is the check engine light on if so there will be a fault code in the ECU

Hi Tom: If you open the hood (bonnet) and look at the brake master cylinder there should be an electrical connection. The thing on the cylinder that the wires connect to will be the switch. I'd try unpluging it and then use a continuity meter to try to check the switch function. DEFINITELY replace the switch if it is not functioning correctly. It would be DANGEROUS to simply dis-connect it and then drive without brake lights.

Check light bulb and fuse.

Mini and maxi fuses in all colors by amp rating

if the coil is tested fully and is good where have you checked for it being good? have you checked if the HT lead from the coil to the distributor is carrying power? If you have power at the distributor cap , all the contacts are good, the rotor is fine, (check current at the distributor cap centre pin) then the likely problem is the machanism for firing, i.e. Hall sensor . I would check all the HT leads, distributor cap, rotor etc. you should carry out the checks systematically. I.E. First check at the coil with a multi meter. Then check at the end of the Ht lead from coil to distributor , actually within the lead itself , for current. then attach it to distributor if it shows a current...if you are getting a current from the distributors centre pin the issue is probably the cap itself, the rotor arm, the firing system, it will probably be electronic as mechanical distributors went out some years before I think. or if that is okay, the leads themselves. I would guess that is is distributor cap or firing system related'

need to be plugged into a diagnostic machine

I do not know the exact location but you have 2 fuse boxes, one under the hood on drivers side and one inside by the left foot kick panel.

You mean the stick just falls into gear? while engine is running and the car lurches forward? I would say the gates are wore out in the transmission, but even at that, it should not go in gear unless you have the clutch pushed in, IF it were to try to engage while car is running, the shifter would come in contact with the gear in the trans and grind because the clutch would not be engaged. Maybe somehow the linkage got bent on the transmission while they were replacing the pulley on the car or a bushing broke on the shifter linkage?

Removing the bottom hose to radiator will accomplish the drain.

I believe it is on main fuse block under hood.

Have you read the codes? That should give a clue as to what is wrong.