1991 Toyota Previa - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You could try draining the coolant from the bottom of the radiator, rather than the block. If you can not find a coolant release valve, try removing the hose from the lowest connection of the radiator. Make sure that you take the cap of the expansion bottle (or radiator) to ensure that air can enter to let the coolant out.

Look up how to bleed your brakes. Auto Zone repair guide, or online

place all the bolts on their heads and find the long ones. next use a piece of wire and place it in all the holes to find the depth of each hole. Short bolts =shallow holes . long bolts = deeper holes

check the fuse , then carefully check the wire to the fuel pump

right after the air cleaner

alldata.com and read.

Yes, there is an 28mm plug on top, and yes, it can be removed and replaced w/o removing the engine.

You need spark to the plugs, fuel to the injectors, and normal compression. One of the three is missing.

rods bad. if they are old nitrogen filled damper rods the all are bad this old. never seen one not, after 23 long years. it will leak out, there is no stopping this entropy. none.

flip it back, some kids must have been playing there... i bet. reach into latch and RESET it.

the operators guide covers this on all cars made. wow 1991 had this, shock. im, Gobsmacked.! here is the google search, i type this and ... get...... drum rollllllllllll 2nd hit. my 7year GD old can google and gets bad grades if cant. google first then ask. https://www.google.com/webhp#q=1991+Toyota+Previa+Reseting+oil+change+light sorry but google really does work.

Junk yard is a good place to look or pay the price at the dealership.

the CD is dead, most are , this old. its very very very old. and hard life bouncing, dirt, dust, humid air. etc. it be amazing for me to see any 91 CDDA work at all. CDDA players. old. or are you not using CDDA discs?, and using 2001 and newer CDR CDRW, or DVD or MP3 disks, a hopeless idea, as 1991 there was no such ANI-MULE, nada, zero, forward compatibility in electronics is only a dream, impossible. tell me what CD disk in hand,,,,,

if battery dead replace light turns on , please observe electrolyte ,check terminals for any acid corrosion ,use a multimeter take reading before you switch on your ignition then take reading while ignition ,if the readings is less than 12 ,01 volts is ok with the battery and the cranking point not less than 09 -5 volts if less when cranking replace the battery

Did you have someone jump start the car when the battery was dead? If so, you may have damaged something in the starter circuit. There is a starter relay on most cars and some have fuses. I would start checking those two things first. Replace the starter relay with another one (usually you can substitute one of the other relays in the car electrical box for it). If the problem isn't there, there are only two other things in the circuit: the ignition key switch and the starter itself.

why guess. and why do something like this with no books.?????the rad change out is in the factory FSMand is at alldata.com and at mitchelswhy not read that , then ask questions.very old car a 91, Long in tooth.the exact proceedures vary by , engine options. and accessories.like A./C got A/C or options like A./T (OR m/t) STICK OR AUTO TRANNY.????IN A NUT SHELL (read the FSM for details)drain system (at RAD and motor drain cock see FSM)flush system , on all cars ,every inch of system. (really)pull belts.remove all parts blocking RAD , pull. and shrouds , fans.etc.unbolt rad clamps and screws, and hoses. and A/T lines.the Rad is free. pull it up and out.put it backnow (pasted)

1. When the system stops draining, close both draincocks as necessary.
2. Using a funnel if necessary, fill the reservoir tank with a 50/50 solution of antifreeze and water. Allow time for the fluid to run through the hoses and into the engine. (slow it is)
3. Start the engine and let it idle about 10 minuets; add the coolant/water mixture up to the FULL level.
4. Tighten the cap.
5. Race the engine 2000-3000 rpms for about 5 minutes, then stop the engine.
6. After the coolant drops, remove the cap and add coolant to the FULL level again. (end paste)
7. repeat 5 until drop levels ends. (hot to cold cycles) me......

Separate systems. CD player reads a disc, radio receives a frequency signal. Disc reader is probably out to lunch.

This seems like a short in your wiring harness

I hope this is an easy fix, but I doubt it!Try to locate the switch, it should be a push button, that opens when you lift the rear gate, and closes when you close the rear gate.If that switch is broken, it will stay on. Also, the switch, usually made of plastic, could have fallen down inside the hole where it mounts, also causing it to stay on. Perhaps it need adjustment to turn off the light. If the lift gate has been sprung or is not exactly where it was when new, you might be able to adjust it somehow to work. Like if the gate does not come close enough, you might glue or screw a piece of metal on to the contact surface to make it turn off the light.My sad suspicion is, put a piece of tape over the light! That is what I have had to do in a few cases. Be blessed.

the alternator itself is probably bad