20 Most Recent 1991 Toyota Previa - Page 8 Questions & Answers

is it noisy or grinding ?

I would suspect the catalytic converter is clogged. You will need to replace the converter.

i have one, i run 5w 30 castrol but mine has 350thousand miles

if you mean "code reader plug" (sorry not much of a car guy, just know what MY '91 has taught me) is under the drivers seat. there is a lever to lean the seat (whole seat, not just back) back. this is where you add oil, check oil and trans fluid. the code reader plug is the grey box thingy nearest the door.
Hope that helped

Check the oil level. engine off; open hood; pull dipstick; wipe with rag and replace. Then pull out again and read the oil level. If it is at the lowest acceptable level, you need to add one quart. If below that, add more. On the valve cover, there is a cap that comes off for you to pour the oil into. Add some oil, wait a few seconds, then check level again at the dipstick. Do not overfill.

Check your owners manual for which oil to use - normally will be 5W-30, but go with the manual's specification.

you will have to take the brake lines off of each side you will have to take tiers off to do so.once you have it off u will need to pump the brake until u get all theaire out of the brake lines as you are porring more brake fluid into were the fluid goes

usually on side of block,exhaust side,towards back,brass hexanogal bolt.need hoist to get underneath to find it.

could be fuel starvation when changing over from one fuel to another.end of one/start of another,especially when engine cold and running on richer mixture .answer is only change when car is at normall temp.sorry but this is in the gas convertion manual....

i think u might have forgotten to flush out the turbo pipes and intercooler before u started the engine with the new turbo cos they would have been full of oil from the blown turbo

Go to carhelpsite.com it is free as long as you click on 2 of the ads at the website then your questions will be answered by an ASE certified mechanic,you don't have to buy or fill out anything on the ads,so help keep the site free.

1st u must tell up what an SAD is??

thing to check: resricted air filter fuel filter,air filter, condition of spark plugs. check for carbon build up at air intake

Check the fuel regulator do a pressure test,, sounds like the pressure is to low.

a burnt/seat valve could also be the cause of smoking

you need to replace the fuel sock in the tank and the fuel filte and do a tuneup wires plugs and cap.

Directly above the radio at the top of the dash. Release lever at top of & center of heater controls will release cover. The cover is about 8 inchs square.

There is a tension gauge for this, and I bet you don't have one, so usually when you tug on the belt it does not extend beyond an inch from it
line of field, should be pretty tight.

If you have 150k on it, you may need all three. Run the engine, turn on heater, and get out and slam the hood a couple of times. In extreme cold or hot weather, this may get you by for a few days. I went 3 or 4 months with a bad blower by doing this, when the brushes inside the motor went bad. If it does not work, your blower is probably bad. The switch can have bad contacts, and you may try moving or holding it vertically to see if you can get any activity out of it. Put a resistor in too, if you have to replace the blower motor.

just keep on bleeding it through if your'e sure theres nothing wrong with the slave cylinder... so long as all the pipes are light and cutch and slave cylinder are known to be working there can only be air in the system, just be really patient, I had a suzuki motorcycle a few months back that took 500ml of fluid before all the air was gone! - just keep at it and be patient, sometimes you have to stab at the pedal a bit to get the first bit of fluid through, dont worry about getting air into the system at this point, just get the pipes and cylinders more or less full of fluid by filling the reservoir and undoing the nipple so it just leaks a little, press the pedal quite slowly and repeatedly to get the first bit done (get some fluid down the pipes), then tighten the bleed nipple, then press the clutch a good few times, carry on with normal bleeding from this point - about 15 operations of open nipple, press slowly to floor+hold it down until nipple is closed, close nipple, release pedal , open nipple..... --- you get the picture. ---- if that does not work your slave cylinder must have packed in, or the master cylinder you have is no good (dont overlook a part as faulty just because it is new!) ----- keep the reservoir full and make sure you have the right grade of fluid and that it has come from a freshly opened container, not one that has been used before NO-WAY! it goes "off" really quickly -