20 Most Recent 1991 Toyota Previa - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There are many reasons why the engine and the emission systems fails a smog check. If you go to this page it will give you ideas on how to pass the test next time around.

The cable back to the release has probably stretched to the point it won't release (hey it's 18 years old!). Get a pair of vise grip pliers, grab on firmly to the cable behind the release you are pulling up on, and pull, it should open.

Check your negative connection on the rear lights. It.s like the stop lights are earthing through tail lights and when tail lights are on you have 2 positives.

whoa!! before going to that extreme, Unless you know for sure this is your problem,, there are other things that could cause that ,,, here, check this link,, its the best one I've found that fully explains what your experiencing, replacement of the heater core is a HUGE job and will drive you crazy!! check this site first ,,
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/fluids_heat_air_conditioning/ques020_3.html

If you take your vehicle to the nearest AutoZone or Advanced auto parts they will be able to plug a diagnostic tool that will be able to read your codes that are throwing the Check engine light (CEL). That way you will know what needs fixed to turn off the CE. Once fixed, the CEL will turn off.

Most differentials are set up like this. There is a steel bar that is i the middle of the gears, this is held in with a bolt. remove the bolt. pull the bar out. Then push the axles in the center. There is a c clip to remove from the axle. They will come out easily. Pull the axles out. Once the axles are out the hog head as they call it, will come out. Just watch as the inner gears will come out also. And will have to be placed in the same spot. Kinda of push in and see. let me know

There is air in the system. The slave cylinder does provide pressure to return the pedal. Check to be sure that you have plenty of fluid in the master cylinder (clutch). Slowly work the pedal back and forth to try and remove air. (This usually works unless you have really lost all fluid. Once the air is remove depress the clutch while in gear. If it does not keep the car from moving then replace the slave and master cylinder. The parts are a little over $100. Hope this helps. I have one in the shop right now as a matter of fact...

OK this is not be a big problem. You have air in your coolant system. The temperature sensor is not immersed in coolant but is in an air pocket. When the engine is cool remove the coolant filler cap. Inside the car switch the heater controls to maximum. Switch the engine on. As the engine gets warmer squeeze the top rubber pipe between the engine and the radiator. Add more coolant to the filler cap to replace the air bubbles when they are expelled. When the engine is near operating temperature screw the coolant cap on tightly. Keep running the engine and keep squeezing the rubber pipes occasionally to help any air bubbles move. Make sure that the bottom rubber hose from the radiator back to the engine gets hot. Ensure that the fan for the radiator is running. Only when you are sure that no more air is in the system do you switch the car interior heater off. Check the coolant level when the engine has again cooled down and add more coolant if it looks low.

The best solution is to replace the spark plugs as a rusty plug can cause a lot of issues on a long drive even if you can clean and set.

Change your distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. This should be enough to prevent stalling in the rain.

When these components wear out, the problem is first noted when driving in the rain. If they are not changed, eventually the car will not start, even in good weather.

See http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_starter . In the service panel, under the drivers seat is where you start. You will find three main starter bolts, and a couple of smaller ones on a small plate on top and is used as a top brace, steadying the starter from the top. The main bolts you need to get to from underneath. If you are getting the intermittent clicks, there is some good news. I did the first one at 194k, and later found out you can just replace the copper "L" contacts inside the starter. Toyota dealers sell a rebuild kit for less than $15.00. It only includes the bigger of the two contacts (positive terminal), but that is generally all you will need. You will find the contacts by taking off the end, and removing two long bolts, and opposite the bell shaped end. The hardest thing is getting the starter out. The rest is easy.

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On my 1991 AWD, the two contacts were the same size (smaller). Only one was worn. The starter is easier to identify from underneath. The lower (17mm) bolt also holds a shaft bearing on the AWD. There are 3 14mm upper bolts; the middle one is shorter and does not need to be removed

Can't solve that 'got no life' problem, you are on your own.

I took the cheep way out. I got a used shower door roller mechanism. (the kind that slides in tracks.) I dremmeled out the plastic rollers and then shaved them down to the right size. then took off the door and poped them right onto where the old rollers were. Perfect fix with a bit of ingenuity. 50 cents and about one hour of work.

I believe what you are describing are some of the internals of the brake light switch, they, along with a spring, should be contained in a plastic housing which is normally removed as one piece.
It sounds as if the back of yours has come off, leaving the housing connected to a bracket above the brake pedal?
The part u have been shown at the dealers is more than likely the correct part as individual parts of the switch are not replaceable, hope this helps.

Undo front coupling first and slide shaft towards the rear of the vehicle. Just enough room then to slide the front coupling downwards may need to use hammer on old front coupling.
Replace front coupling. Replace rear coupling.