1987 Toyota Camry - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

grab it close to the roller on both sides pull it back and forth pretty hard it may unlock

Your thermostat is stuck open not allowing coolant to heat up to factory specs in engine. Replace the thermostat and you'll be "toasty" again

Hi

If the reason you're messing with the ignition switch is because the key is lost,then the best thing to do is go to the dealer with your title. The parts department has a factory key cutter that cut keys using a code which they cross reference from the vin number. They also need proof of ownership before they can cut you the key. Making a key anywhere else they use the old key for a pattern and all you get is another copy of a worn out key that doesn't work.

There are anti-theft bolts that secure the lock assembly to the column and they need to be drilled out and then replaced with new bolts. You're going to need a new key to turn the lock to remove the tumblers so try the dealer code cutter before tearing the dash apart

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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The safest way to be sure you don't overfill the motor with engine oil is: after draining the oil pan and installing the drain plug, put the new filter on and add three quarts of approved oil to the engine. pull the dipstick and wipe it clean, re-insert and check the accurate oil level. there should be oil either at the very bottom of the dipstick or between two holes or on what looks like a hashmark. if the oil is at the bottom of the dipstick, add one more quart, then start the engine. let it run for about 30 seconds then shut if off. check the dipstick just like before. The oil level should be right at the top oil level mark on the dipstick. It's ok if it is a little low but NOT OK to be above the line or mark.

The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank.

If a camshaft has some kind of torque or tension setting that is the first I've ever heard of it and I've designed a few for race applications. They will however have different degrees of lobe separation which is what controls how you're engine will run whether you have a mild profile or the loping muscle car idle

Do you want to know how much it can hold? In the place where you put it, there's two lines: one that says MIN and one that says MAX. The line with the MAX is how much you can hold at one time.

Check the vaccum lines for holes, and is the air working only for the front defrost?

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

here ya go

There is a lead from the gauge that attaches to the engine and it sounds like it has become disconnected. I have had it happen to me a couple of times on different vehicles. Simply plug it back on/in and your temp gauge should start working. If for some reason that does not solve the issue, then you may have a bad temp gauge, but that is super rare and most likely not the issue. I hope that you have found this information useful as that is my goal.

i would take the car to meineke or midas or someone of that sort and have them test the catlytic converter for a blockage, most will administer this test for FREE, they simply drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe in front of and behind the converter and compare the air presssure at both points to determine if the is a blockage, dont worry, they can quickly fix them small holes they drilled, while your there getting this FREE test ask about the light, most will be glad to give you advice. i keep highlighting FREE because most offer this test for FREE, call ahead and ask do they test them for FREE, i hope this isnt your problem because this can be quite expensive (200 - 400$)

cooling fan switch, or fan relay. or the fan it self

This is not an interference engine. If the belt is broken, you'll just need to reinstall the belt correctly and the engine will be fine.

Both leaded or unleaded........... Or lead replacement (LRP) ..... happy Christmas....... Steve

Have the fuel-pump pressure checked to make sure that it is the fuel-pump.

I believe it should be in the trunk under the carpet, it will have a round cap that removes for access.

I would check for power at the solinoid when the key is in the start position. You will need assistance and a test light for this. If you have power at the energizer wire from the key and the solonoid will not work then perhaps the solonoid is no good.

Bad "O ring" gasget.

This is a classic sign of a locked torque converter and/or siezed rear brakes since the age of your car add something called no smoke to your oil it will help it also check you transmission fluid level

Chances are that it is the fuse. Look in the fuse box. Use the diagram inside the fuse box to locate the fuse. Use the provided fuse puller to remove the fuse. Check to make sure the wire inside is not burned in two. There may be two fuse boxes. Look in your owners manual for the locations.