20 Most Recent 1983 Toyota Camry Questions & Answers

Check for clogged heater core? Valve opening properly? No air locks in cooling system?

Usually on the door pilar on ether driver or passenger side

my '93 Chrysler Plymouth Voyager conks out in drive and reverse

The switch or resistors at the blower motor.( resistors are usually found next to blower motor)
Ther relay is the last place you check for resistance. However, before doing any kind of electrical testing or repair POINT THE WHEELS STRAIGHT AHEAD. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. WAITE AT LEAST 2 MINUTES FOR BACK UP POWER SUPPLY TO BE DEPLEATED..THEN DISCONNECT THE YELLOWAIR BAG CONNECTOR LOCATED UNDER THE STEERING COLUMN NEAR THECOMBO SWITCH AND BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG. BE CAREFUL AND GOOD LUCK

http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/car-dic.htm
The above links takes you to a car dictionary.

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/auto-krafters-inc-657/galaxie-and-other-full-size-ford-parts-accessories-2008-17616/page-1.html
The above link will give you a model car diagram it has 188 pages.

check for dirty cab air inlet or "HVAC" filter, or heater core is plugged from debris and air is being restricted and wont blow through. it works like a radiator, air ducts can also be getting stuck.

I can't remember exactally for that model - but it is sometimes required that you may have to loosen the mounts and jack up the engine from the underside - It all depends on how much room you have and how much you need - I wouldn't remove it, just jack it up until you have the space you need (If you have to) - Alot of foreign cars offer very little space to work in - Nature of the beast - so no, there's not a "quick-fix", but just use your common sense and remember the water pump isn't too terribly "deep"or "thick" and can ususally be worked into place...even a small space - if you can access the bolts...Common sense #1...Good luck.

Using a voltmeter, the resisted voltage values for the fan motor are as follows:
LOW- 3 VDC
Med LOW - 6 VDC
Med HIGH - 9 VDC
High - 12 VDC

The fan resistor gets 12 volts from each position of the fan switch, and the 12 VDC is then lowered thru each of the 3 internal resistors inside the fan resistor. My guess is that the resistor has failed, and the resistance wires contained on it may have meshed together. The resistor is on the black box between the blower motor housing and the center of the dash. 2 phillips screws hold it in. Easy to remove/replace. Hope this helps, and thanks for choosing FixYa.

Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown (or your own wire to a metal grounding point)
Illumination Green
Antenna Trigger Black/Red

Front Speakers 4" Dash
Left Front (+) Pink
Left Front (-) Purple
Right Front (+) Green
Right Front (-) Blue

Rear Speakers 5 1/4" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Black
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Red
Right Rear (-) White

I a '83 camry, there are 2 seperate plugs that go into a factory radio.
One for Power/and front speakers, and the other for rear speakers.

Sounds as if you are missing part of the harness for the rear speakers (or it is shoved in the back of the dash unused by the previous install). If there is not an un-cut plug in the dash - your only course of action would be to run your own set of speaker wire to the rear.

See this picture... these are the plugs that should go into your factory radio....


Metra kit 71-1938 will go from your factory wiring directly into your factory radio.


Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for my effort in answering this Freebie question.

Do you have the shop manual? You need verify the workings of each part and system one at a time. Follow the working line. You stated you checked the fuel pressure. Where was it checked? At which location? Was it checked under throttle? Does the fuel regulator check out? Is the fuel good (any water)? These problems can sometimes be a bear to find. It takes time and patience. Do one thing at a time and verify that it works properly before moving on to the next part/attack plan. Check all ground conections from the block/engine to the frame/body. Once you verify that the fuel delivery is good, start looking at emission related parts and fuel management parts (TPS, MAF, Cold start injector, EGR, etc.)

check your anti freeze levels, and the thermostat.

The ABS light being on is most likely the wheel speed sensor, the wheel speed sensor is still 100% good, it's just that someone didn't remove the sensor before working on the strut, so when they pushed down on the lower control arm or knuckle they ripped the 20-24 Gauge wire apart, you can buy a new harness or splice it back together and use heat shrink to hold it.

Get a test light see if its the fuse blown i swap its fuse or relay with another one just to see if thats the problem if not its ur open shut switch itself

wire color code? https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp read

plz I need Toyota 1G FE ECU Pinout Diagram thanx

Have you checked the speed sensor on the transmission ?