20 Most Recent 1997 Toyota Camry - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a defective signal selector unit in the steering column just below the steeing wheel, should be checked and or replaced.

See if the rattling noise is coming from oil pump, go immediately to a mechanic, you can cause more damage tto your car driving in this conditions.

if it turns over and wont start,could be a few things start with putting some starter fluid in throttle body that will tell you if its not getting gas if it starts. you can pull a spark plug and stick plug on the plug wire and have someone crank it you should see spark iv seen a lot of worn out spark plugs these should be changed every 30000 miles if the plug gap is to big itll never start. and lastly the timming belt could be broke pull back the cover and look at it good luck hope u aint outside

i guess the keys all work but the remote start fails is that it . or are you attempting to hack bypass the immo? tell what works and not. so we have a full story.

A wobble in the steering is more likely to be one of - loose wheel nuts - loose hub nut - worn steering tie rod outer joint - worn steering tie rod inner joint - loose steering rod universal - worn steering knuckle ball joint Out of these a worn or loose steering tie rod joint is most likely. If you can, jack the front of the car up and rest it on axle stands, NOT just on the jack, then have one person shake the front wheel back and forth while holding it at 9 and 3 o'clock, while another holds the steering wheel still. Then look at and feel each joint to see if you can locate the looseness.

Your car stores computer fault codes in the engine/trans modules. They set the CHECK ENGINE light on to alert you a fault is now stored and there is a problem that requires diagnosis. You need to get the fault code scanned to proceed further. There are over 1300 DIFFERENT reasons to turn on the check engine light, some could be minor (a loose gascap), some major (CRANK SENSOR/CAM SENSOR CORRELATION...Car will stall when one finally fails!) Checking the exact code is the only way to proceed.

Hello Keith ! Since you are using Haynes Manual Book and you can not locate the component you are looking for, I do not know whether anyone can help you having the autodata program just getting in the system putting the vehicle details and go to components location and surely you will locate it. I believe the speed sensor should be on the automatic transmission.

Ther are so many variations from year to year if I were you I would just call the service department of your local Toyota dealer they can tell you exactly where to look or purchase a Haynes repair manual this is a valuable book to have aif you plan to own the vehicle for more than 3 years.

Remove the mounting screws and the globe should be on the top section.

You need to do a parasitic load test.(this will require a DC ammeter).I prefer to test with a clamp-on type meter for a faster draining condition like this.Most people don't have this kind of test equipment,so the only other way is to just look for things staying on.A battery draining in 24 hrs is probably a 1-2 amp load.Try looking at the trunk light(gotta start somewhere).I have found glove box lights,vanity mirror lights,and underhood light staying on before.(I even remember a Chevy Blazer that had a 16 amp drain because the rear wiper motor wasn't parking correctly!)If there isn't anything obvious,then pull one fuse at a time until the battery drain stops(start with things you can drive the car without).

Oohh, a catch 22 problem. I had success once by asking a locksmith to cut a key with a little extra metal on the profile, just a bit. I then wiggled and jiggled the key while trying to turn it, and it reluctantly went to ACC. I then ripped out the lock cylinder quick as I could. You may have to call in an auto locksmith, who will have a skelton key, a master.

really? not enough info.......

Possible restriction in exhaust have convertor checked for blockage

it could be so many different relatively minor things, when a car is still cold, it is running in what is called a "closed loop". meaning the computer is relying on preprogrammed parameters to control engine performance. once it gets hot, it is now running in "open loop". meaning the computer now uses sensor and data input real time to control the engine. so...simplest answer would be a sensor malfunction or a system failure. might be as easy as going to pep boys, getting a free diagnostic code read and replacing an external part

remove door trim panel, look see what's broke/unattached, go from there.

You don't say what engine you have, but almost certainly your cam cover gasket is leaking oil on the exhaust, which causes the smell. V6 engines are especially prone to this as the rear bank is tilted down. This leak is so common it would appear it should have been listed as a standard feature. Older Camrys also leak from the distributor shaft o-ring seal.

Do steps 9 and 10 here, p112 http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/bo.pdf Look around the base of the gearshift mount and handbrake mount for a small globe with a colored coating on it.

Kimberly, it sounds like a wiper relay over heating, if you replace it that should cure the problem.

Your relay or windsheild wiper moter is over heating

If a spark plug is wet with anything other than fuel then I'd say you have a blown head gasket or cracked head.