20 Most Recent 1996 Toyota Camry - Page 11 Questions & Answers

you need to check the wires that come in from the left drivers side kick panel to the drivers front door......when you open the drivers side front door you will see the harness that comes from inside the car to the door and 99% of the time you will find that there will be broken wires......this is a common problem on these cars.....the best way to check this is to unplug the harness behind the kick panel and take the door panel off and feed the harness back through the door and pull back the black rubber cover that is protecting the wires.......once you have all of the wires exposed start checking for any broken wires and also you might want to take each wire one at a time and pull on them to see if any of the other wires are about to break cause the insulation around the wire could be the only thing holding it together......the wire inside will break over time and the insulation will not....hope that this will help you and if you need more info let me know.....let me and fixya know if i was any help to you and a comment and a thumbs up would let me know how i am doing.....thanks and have a blessed day........good luck and i do believe you will find your problem in the door harness and dont forget to check all of the wires......

you are not supposed to adjust the idle, ever. that is the ECUs job. adjusting it , now, means you have lied to the ECU. it wont ever be right again. leave that screw alone, its a factory set adjustement. nice guess though, very carb like guess. Is common idea... sure... its EFI. and has Idle speed controls. if the engine misfires, (yours is) the RPM drops, the ECU tries to raise idle 2 ways, by opening the ISC and advancing timing.(spark) this can fail easy , if any EFI engine misfires. what happens is the ISC has lost control.. lets use 1 example , 1 cylinder is dead, the ISC can NOT fix that. nor idle right. the solution is to leave the idle alone. and. then fix misfire, than last fix the ISC functions., but i get ahead of myself...... Did you do the 60,000 mile full tune up as listed in the oper guide? no? well misfire is going to happen. (new spark parts and filters) tune it up. if still misfire. we diagnose that 2nd, and fix it. there are tests for each step. I can show you them, all of them. there are over 50 causes of misfire. here is a great list. and is not complete. !!! http://www.fixkick.com/misfiring.html one common cause is a leaky EGR main valve now that guy is very pesky , even stalling engine every traffic stop.

p0402 is an egr code I would start with the egr valve

on what,? lower what, no engine type stated, so impossible to answer. I4, V6? what. and displacement, lots of engines.

a Peugeot in a Toyota? really? stock alarm or after market, ??????????????????????????????? the alarms are complex POS, i hate them like your neighbors... the FSM covers the alarm and how to do the tests and fix it. get the FSM. for your car and read it. or get it fixed, if in USA find a real ASE mechanic. badge on sleeve. bingo. the alarm is really a small computer. (ive built many (silent alarms RF) and one of the input switches are bad, or maladjusted. that is what is wrong, fixing it is another matter. RTM Read the manual. or login to alldata.com and hope it covers alarms good. some factory alarms are only covered with dealer , supplementary manuals, ask PEUGEOT THAT. ps, never buy any French cars, sorry.

check ur trunk where there is a cap thing back there where wires run to make sure that didnt burn i have 1998 camry that did the same as urs and i checked mine and i fixed mine and now everythings works now

-Possibly the dimmer switch was turn all the way to on position. -Check it out. If it is, then turn it back. Good luck Mai

Clean the idle speed control valve in the upper intake near the throttle valve with CRC brand throttle cleaner.

You would need to figure out if you are missing spark to the plugs or fuel to the injectors to proceed.

Most likely was seizing up because of lack of oil. Not gas.

Immobilizer seems to be active, same with your alarm. May be faulty, need to replace.

check where you disconnected the wires from as you probably dislogded the power wire for the starter solenoid.

On the top of transmission, you need to take out the intake duct to change it, it should hold it by one bolt, 15 mins job, easy.

It should on the top of transmission, you need to take out the intake duct to change it, about 15 mins job. Easy.

not the 3S-FE? the caps are marked, 1 to max. 1 is front or cyl 1. did you see all the warnings and pit falls for this head.? int he FSM> its a full page of warnings did you use RTV on cap 1? (so the oil gallery seals?) login to alldata.com if no FSM. and read the head pull page. and make sure cam it timed, and lash checked, then check for top end oiling at first crank,, or FAIL big time. the caps are precision milled, in place, there is NO MIXING allowed. just like rod big end caps, same deal. and direction. the cam must be sequenced in place or it will be wrecked. RTM read the manual;, its no stove bolt six, not in the least.