20 Most Recent 1995 Toyota Tercel - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Your brake caliper or your brake hardware is sticking. Pull it apart(two bolts) and push the caliper back in with a spreader or a c-clamp. The grease the brake hardware(where the bolts go in). That might do the trick. If you have a hard time getting the caliper peston back in then you need to replace it and bleed the brake system.

Typically you have to remove the transmission pan. This is a messy job and is best performed on a lift with an elevated oil pan. You just have to start pulling off bolts, there will probably be about a dozen of them. Loosen all on but one side so as you start to loosen the last side, the opposite side will drop and you will only drain from one side. Make sure you have a new gasket on hand.

No way to tell until someone identifies why the 3rd cylinder isn't working. It could be something as simple as plug wires or a coil pack. It could be a Crank Position sensor being faulty. You just won't know until you do some testing. Do a compression check and see if you have good compression and eliminate valve and ring problems. If the compression is good replace the plugs and wires and work your way through the system.

Scott, You will need no special tools for the removal of these bolts as they are long enough so that the pressure on the springs will be relieved by the time the bolts can come off. What you need to be careful about are the bolts themselves. Sometimes they will break before you get them off. It is best to apply heat to the flange they are screwed into to make sure they come out without breaking. Once you have finished with the oil pan the bolts and springs will be easily replaced. Good luck with this.

quite easy to do ,disconnect battery first then the cables on the starter and then 3 bolts thats all their is to it ,starter at back of engine so be prepared to put it on axle stands and lay underneath ,use a 3/8th drive socket set with plenty of extensions and a universal .not a difficult job for a part time mechanic

you have a loose, barely connection wire problem somewhere from fuse box to front and rear section of car. check fuses to see if one is loose, also, check fuse block is secure.
somewhere between there you will find your problem.
also check bulbs in sockets of the signals. making sure there is good connection.

start engine handbrake on and brick behind wheel ,then select reverse and check whilst engine running in reverse ,easy

This could be several reasons why the car would stop. The solenoid may be bad (the electrical part that makes you change gears) or the speed sensor on the transmission. It could be electrical or mechanical in nature.

Have you tried running it through all gears without switching to over drive if it happens? Is your idle low or erratic or rough?

Does the car stall immediately or only at certain rpm or speed when you are on overdrive?

Thanks

when my grandaughter turns left power steering leaks would this be a line leaking , she is a few hundred miles away , if it is a line i can buy it here and when she comes home this weekend i can replace it
, i cannot find a diagram of the power steering systems

Lights on because one of the cars' sensors have detected a fault. Have OBII scan done at any good parts store (they do scan FREE) They'll give you list of things that caused the fault. Then you'll know what to fix.

toyota got its own red color anti freeze but the 50/50 mix works perfect,

You have the On Board Diagnostic 1 system which applied to most vehicles through 1995. In 1996, the OBD 2 system took effect.

So on your Toyota, the way to read out your codes is with the check engine light itself. When you make a connection with a "jumper" wire and turn the ignition key to on (but not start), the check engine light will flash a series of codes. The connection to make is in a small black box under the hood called the "test connector". The box will be labeled "diagnostic" or "diag". The cover flips open and on the inside of the cover there is a chart showing what each test terminal is for. Using a small jumper wire or a paper clip, connect the two terminals TE1 and E1. Now grab paper and pen and sit in the driver's seat and turn the key to on (not start). The check engine light will start flashing the code(s). The two digit code(s) will repeat until you turn off the key.

A sample code of "35" will look like three flashes at about 1 second intervals followed by a 2-3 second pause then 5 flashes at about one second intervals. There will be another 2-3 sec. pause between codes. Write down all the codes. Turn off the key. Remove the jumper wire from the test connector. You can look up the codes on-line or here or a dealer or parts store should be able to tell you the code definition.

If this is a manual transmission and you get slippage at acceleration, then your clutch is slipping.

An adjustment might help a little bit, for a while, but I think I'd prepare myself for having the transmission pulled and the clutch replaced.

The clutch assembly is made up of 4 main elements: (1) the flywheel (bolted to the rear end of the engine crankshaft), (2) the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel (a spring loaded device that applies pressure to the clutch disc), (3) the clutch disc (sandwiched between the flywheel and pressure plate) that connects, via friction, the engine to the transmission, (4) the throw out bearing, which pushes against the fingers of the pressure plate to release the clutch disc engagement.

I'd seriously consider having some one do this for you....having to remove the transmission is not something for the faint of heart. Serious injury could result if the transmission were to fall on you while pulled back from the engine bell housing.

Oh, and another thing...I'd replace the pilot shaft bushing while I was in there.

If you really want to do this yourself, then go to your local auto parts store and purchase a vehicle specific repair manual. It should outline the steps specific to your car.

Remember....be very careful!

there is a capasistor in the disributer that some times goes, check that, when they goes they look like they melted

Any check engine light for a car of this year or newer is sent through the car's main computer. If you go to Advanced Auto or any other like auto store, they will be able to hook your car up to a machine which will tell you exactly what is wrong. They will also be able to offer advice on how to repair.