Top 20 1994 Toyota Previa Questions & Answers

Likely the ignition switch is not rotating completely into the off position. If your key is extremely worn, it may be possible it can be removed without the switch exactly in the off position. Suggest trying a different (less used) key and see if problem goes away. Else try to make sure it is in off position (clock off) before removing key. If you find that's the problem you may need new keys or switch or both.

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If the eng. Is cranking over could be spark or fuel or antitheft is enabled is the antitheft light on or is there an aftermarket alarm antitheft device installed on vehicle?if you have a key fob try changing the battery in fob. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_a14a43e01fd0835a

My 1996 has had the P040 code (EGR insufficient flow) for years and years. I suspect the EGR modulator has failed, but have not had to fix it, because it drives just fine and I don't live in a place that needs emissions testing. My Chilton's manual has details how to test the whole EGR system and each component. I recommend buying a manual and going through the testing systematically rather than trying new parts randomly. The manual is usually around $20 at any autoparts store (or ebay).

My 96 low rumble was caused by the U joints on the drive shaft. The front drive shaft starts near the rear of the vehicle, transfer case. The U joints are non-replaceable, so I had to buy a new one from Toyota. The parts guy said it was the only one they could find in the US. Around $650. Alternative was to ship the drive shaft to an outfit in Texas that cuts of the old U joints and welds on replaceable types, cost around $500. I changed the center drive shaft support bearing too. No more rumble.

Most fuel cut off switches are located in the teunk, behind carpeting.

Watch the video. Third Brake Light Bulb Change Toyota Previa 1991 1997 1993 Toyota Previa...

Sensor could be failed or intermittent. East to test with ohm meter.

Sounds like it could be a bad or unplugged IAT sensor.

Highly unlikely as far as i know.

In the USA the Estima is called Previa, and there may be some differences, depending on whether it has the 2.4L or a 2.2L engine or other options. Labor Time for this job is One hour. The water pump on the 2.4 Liter engine is accessed under the vehicle, very likely the same on any engine for these models. Follow the radiator hoses to the engine until you find the water pump, which is near one of the drive axles. The thermostat is bolted to the water pump with two bolts. Drain the cooling system, then using a large pan under to catch any extra coolant when removing the thermostat housing. Carefully clean the surfaces of both the thermostat housing and the water pump. [Check water pump for coolant seepage, which leaves a crusty beige or pink deposit. If so, replace the water pump.] Install a new thermostat and gasket (Or O-ring). Refill the coolant with the same coolant only if it looks clean. I would also test the coolant to see what the PH is, which needs to be about 7.2 PH. (Coolant will turn acid over time, even when it looks okay.) Make sure you put as much coolant back into the system as you removed. Fully warm up the engine, and let it cool down before removing the radiator cap, then check for air in the system, topping up as needed. The radiator needs to be full to the top. Also check the overflow reservoir, which has level marks of Low and High, Never fill over the High mark.

Did the anti-theft system get activated? Clear it with the key by locking then unlocking the driver door. It cost me $100 to learn that lesson when I had to tow it home.

alldata.com cover this so does the FSM. generic on all cars.

1. pull the battery neg lug.
2. gain access to starter, (that means objects in the way , remove 1st.
3. remove the cables and wires for solenoid on starter.
4. remove the 2 bolts holding starter to bell housing.
5. starter falls out.
6. reverse above.

change out, replace, etc does the hot wire test pass? if yes, leave it alone. see the tricks here, and all tests. all are very simple tests. most changed out starters are good, because DIY dont test it right. here are the tests. http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

the blower motor relay(resistor block) is under the hood on the passenger side on the firewall. but this is not your problem with these symptoms, you need to take the car to a garage and have it checked out and repaired.

Check the air filter?

If you are losing coolant out the exhaust, the exhaust will have a sickly sweet smell as opposed to the normal stench. Otherwise, a small amount a water dripping from an exhaust pipe is not unusual, as moisture from condensation can build up inside the muffler when driving short trips; this moisture is expelled while driving. If you are not losing coolant, then this is probably what you are seeing and it is not a problem.

find a mech, have him locate the source. guessing is fruitless.

most cars I work on drip out the exhaust on the floor alittle when we jack up the front end-Ithink this could be condensation-but if you have white smoke and a sweet smell with it -it could be antifreeze leaking into combustion and going out the exhaust-hopefully not-cheers Denny

- Check the radiator cap for proper sealing. - Blow air from outside and inside of the radiator to clean the fine dust accumulated in the feathers and fins. - Check the radiator for clogged inside. Clean the radiator after disassembling it. - Check the water pump belt for looseness or wear. - Check the thermostat valve. - Check the cylinder head gasket or re-torque the cylinder head bolts.

bad resitor for the blower motor