Top 20 1991 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers

The tail lights in my sister's '90s Subaru had a similar problem, and nobody could diagnose it, so she just kept a bunch of fuses in the car. (When she replaced a fuse, it would be a while before it blew again -- days, weeks or even months). In your case, there's a continuous short circuit somewhere. I'd start with the tail lights themselves -- remove the bulb on one side, replace the fuse, then test. If the other bulb lights and the fuse didn't blow, you know the problem is in the wiring to the bulb you removed. If the fuse DID blow, replace the bulb, remove the bulb from the other light, replace the fuse and test again. Examine the wires carefully looking for nicks or bare insulation. If the fuse fails whichever bulb is installed (or even if no bulbs!), then the short circuit is probably at the fuse box connectors for those wires, or inside the fuse box itself. I assume you're talking about the tail lights that turn on and off with the headlights. If you're talking about the brake lights, the test procedure is the same, but don't forget about the high-mounted center brake light, if your car has one.

It sounds like a wheel bearing problem to me. Have a repair shop double check.

The only thing I can suggest is cleaning the terminals on your battery and cables make sure the battery is charged turn on your key and see if you have lights in the dome and headlights if you do it's a starting issue

Short term, pull the drl fuse, see if lights go out. Check to see if headlamps will still work with drl fuse removed? If they still work, don't worry about it. Just between me and you, I've never cared for drl. I can give you wiring diagrams if you want?

Look in the gas tank to see if that black stuff is clogging the fuel sock on the pickup tube on the fuel sender.

Toyota dealer or a junk yard.

5th gear out is a pretty general description, Is it grinding when trying to shift into 5th or when you go to 5th it pops out, or you shift into 5th and nothing happens? It could be a simple syncro repair to replacing just the 5th gear to rebuilding the whole transmission, either way, you may want to consider just buying a JY trans, it would probably be cheaper.

Yes.

For a number of years, automakers have used a "standard" type of brake light switch set-up. That is, they put a plastic switch in a metal or plastic holder above the brake pedal arm under the dashboard, so that when the driver pushes their foot on the brake pedal, the arm goes toward the floor, and the brake light switch is "closed", (the plunger in the switch extends) allowing the current to flow to the brake lights. Common problems then, are: The plastic switch comes out of the holder, allowing the push button to extend, and keeping the brake lights lit. Or, the switch fails, same as above. Or the plastic stopper on the brake arm fails, again causing the plunger to stay extended. Find a tiny person to stick their head under the dashboard, and you should see the problem. God bless your efforts.

Brake light switch faulty! Replace!

I would start by replacing the radiator cap. A bad cap can stop the flow of coolant from the coolant reservoir back into the engine when the engine cools down. This will cause a vacuum and collapse the hoses. The other possibility is the lower hose is starting to get weak. This compounded with a radiator cap that is not functioning correctly will cause the the hose to collapse when the engine cools off. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Hi Larry: Good observation. Not too many people would spot that. When the engine is hot, the coolant is hot and expands. At the filler cap for the radiator, there will be a hose that goes to the overflow tank. As the coolant fluid expands, it flows through thie tube into the overflow tank. When the engine is turned off, as it cools, the volume of coolant in the engine and radiator contracts, and is supposed to suck fluid back from the overflow tank. I'm suspicious that something is preventing this from happening so the vacuum in the engine coolant system is collapsing the hose. WHAT TO DO? - Check the radiator cap. Make sure it is functioning correctly. Make sure that it is correctly installed and screwed all the way on. - Check the coolant overflow hose. Make sure it is not plugged. Odds are that you will find the problem quite quickly. Cheerfuls.

I would start by replacing the radiator cap. A bad cap can stop the flow of coolant from the coolant reservoir back into the engine when the engine cools down. This will cause a vacuum and collapse the hoses. The other possibility is the lower hose is starting to get weak. This compounded with a radiator cap that is not functioning correctly will cause the the hose to collapse when the engine cools off. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If its digital. There is a small lever which protrudes from the clock. Turn it left for hours and right for minutes.

whats it look like

take the wire of the coil and using a multimeter set on volts check for power from the ignition switch. If none run the fault codes as it could be immobiliser, cam/crank position sensors. check that the camshaft /distributor is turning.

could be the speed sensor has stopped working try this schematic to help locate

The multi-switch needs to be replaced That is the turn signal/headlight switch.

Replace light switch.

Air conditioner is required to have: - Good electrical and electronic connections. - Receiver and drier be in a good condition with clean and transparent sight glass. - Clean evaporator (cooling coil) and condenser (in front of radiator). - Working condenser fan. - Neat pipe lines. - Reliable expansion valve. - Reliable and tested compressor. - There is no leakage in the whole system. - Refrigerant oil and gas. NOTE: All of the operations must be performed in a well ventilated area, away from heat and fire.