20 Most Recent 1990 Toyota Land Cruiser Questions & Answers

cylinder head

Wiring, schematic, electrical diagrams, torq settings, parts info, error/fault codes, full assembly/dissembly, service instructions and a lot mor eetc are basic contents of these online books they here on this website https://big-manuals.com/

Fuel gauge and temp gauge are separate circuits that have only one thing in common - the supply. In order to ensure readings aren't affected by the normal battery voltage fluctuations the instruments work at a lower voltage than the battery. Both 5 volts and 10 volts used to be fairly common and in order to achieve this a voltage regulator is included in the circuitry. In the early days an electromechanical device was used but that was replaced by a semiconductor device a long time ago. The early device used to fail and cause exactly the symptom you describe but the later ones generally do not but I expect your problem is somewhere in that vicinity.

The most likely cause is worn rubbers in the spring eye bushings. If the bushings are pressed in you will need to have a tool to press them out and press in the new ones. If they are just rubber without a steel surround it is easy. Here is a rude crude example using a socket and G-clamp. Check out the bend in the clamp! http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc64/NetraToy/7988/DSCF0081.jpg Most people do just use a strong G-clamp tho http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/99940264+w660+h440+q80+re0+cr1+ar0/002-removing-leaf-spring-bushings.jpg

You really shouldn't have to adjust this .Its more then likely that the unit is bad its 26 years old . However check for vacuum leaks this will affect how the vehicle runs.and how the unit works Also take a close look at how the brake pedal responds is it high or low are the brakes grabbing or fading with force . Also check master cylinder fluid level and all lines for rust and leaks .It could be anything in a system this old.

have the alternator bench tested check alternator belt condition and tension.

Your turbocharger is leaking oil from the crankcase into the intake manifold. If you continue to run the engine it will deplete the crankcase oil to a point that will cause catastrophic engine failure. That is a technical term for "BLOWN" engine.

did you bleed the system if air is there it wont start

If it rattles,timing is too far advanced.Loosen the distributor bolt,Back timing to fastest idle,and advance it just a little to where the idle is changing slower.Not much tho.Lock the distributor bolt and drive it.If still rattles,do it again till it doesn't rattle.The rattle you speak of is called engine nock,because it's firing ahead of time too much.

glo plugs

Before you could adjust the mixture, make sure that the spark plug gaps, ignition timing and valve clearance are all OK. - Start the engine and bring it at operating temperature. - Adjust the throttle stop screw to bring it at the stable rpm. - Turn in the idle mixture screw while observing the engine speed till the engine starts to stall. At this point turn out the idle mixture screw and keep on opening slowly till the engine acquire the most stable rpm. Finally adjust the throttle stop screw to obtain the desired idle speed.

Please describe the engine code, for example 22R, 12H-T, 2L-T etc. Thanks.

When was last trans fluid & filter change? Should be done every 30k or 3 years. I'd start there.

Don't try it yourself. Consult the Authorized Serviceman instead. Brake Impairment maybe Hazardous.