20 Most Recent 1987 Toyota Supra - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Radiator, usually comes on when the exterior plastic tank gets low . Sometimes these leak as a result from low antifreeze and the plastic tank will crac k at the base, where the wire comes out which activates the little symbol light to the left of the temp gauge you are referring to.

take the radiator cap off, only when engine is cool , start and turn the hater on high temp. once the engine thermostat has opened fill the radiator to top, replace cap. infront of the radiator in between the grille there is a small plastic reservoir, fill this to the proper level, also PS Make sure you add anti freeze and not just plain water it is best to purchase 50/50 mix as in the winter the plastic reservoir may freeze and crack without anti-freeze and you will be always adding water .

That's normal, unless it drops below 20 - 25 psi, if the oil is new, the psi can reach 80 psi, when warmed up can drop to 40 psi, try changeing the oil and filter, 10w - 30w should be good.

check water level in res. prob. its low.

Take the care to Toyota automobile worshop for them to repair the speedometer for you.

follow this link for your free workshop manual

http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Toyota.html?from=20

You probably have a fuel pump that isn't working or the fuel filter is clogged. To check the pump, have an assistant turn the ignition switch to on (not start) while you listen at the fuel tank inlet with the fuel cap off. You should hear an electric humming sound if the pump comes on. If the pump is running, the fuel filter could still be clogged (usually at this time of year with ice crystals during subfreezing temperatures.) Try adding a fuel additive (alcohol) to clear this up or wait for warmer temperatures. If you can move the car into a heated garage--this might help also.

Old brake fluid can be a dark brownish red color due to contaminates like rust in the system. But the fluid you speak of could be automatic trans fluid. Is your car an automatic? The power steering system in this car also takes automatic trans fluid. Check the fluid levels in the reservoirs. You may have either a auto trans leak or a power steering leak.

Most of the parts are interchangeable since during this period there were no major changes made to this model. It was upgraded in 85 and the next modified model was made in 88. so its pretty much the same model & since you have blown the engine, anything else that you want to swap, can be done easily

The master cylinder for the cluch needs to be replaced the clutch will still work for a while but as soon as enugh air gets in the system it will stop working because if fluid is getting out air is getting in

The book time is 4.4 hours to adjust them. How difficult I can't say ever bodys different what is hard for me maybe easy for you and visa versa. Do you know what I mean.

Buy brake pads.
loosen lugs
Jack car, place on jack stand
turn wheel so front of tire is pointing out.
remove tire
remove caliper (two bolts on back side of caliper
slide caliper off rotor.
(if rotor is damaged, see about having it turned or replaced)
take pads off caliper
open hood and remove cap to mater cylinder reservoir
using special tool (or C-clamp and something to protect piston) push the piston back into the caliper fully.
place new brake pads on caliper.
fit caliper on the rotor
Secure caliper to wheel with bolts
replace wheel
remove jack stand
remove jack
tighten lugs on wheel
replace hubcap
start engine (do not drive yet!!!!!)
pump brake pedal until it tightens up
observe reservoir on master cylinder (fill if needed)
replace cap
pump brakes again
take out for a test drive.

good luck and don't forget to vote!!!

If the engine is knocking it's probably the big end bearings on the crankshaft.the engine will req a overhaul

Bummer, eh? It can be the switch, but more likely neutral safety switch related. For testing, wire a test light to the solenoid activation termimal of the starter, (usually the terminal to the right if the battery terminal connection, clockwise). Then ground the other end of the test light circuit. test that the light illuminates when you activate the starter.
Then, next failure, you know whether or not current is getting to the soleniod.... Follow through either upstream, meaning neutral safety, wiring, connections, and ignition switch, or downstream, meaning something is wrong with the starter. STarter is less likely, since TWO starters did the same thing.... Not impossible, but un likely.

do you have a service manual that troublshoots turbos--get car scanned and inspect entire vehicle for vacuum leaks or other problems of aging-itz 24 yrs--OBD I diagnostic n dont go replacin parts til u know

have the car scanned for bad sensors at autozone its free check engine lights means computer or sensor problems

mcdevito75 here, The solinoid should be on the starter itself. Follow each battery cabe, 1 goes to ground the other to the starter.