Bolts are the most commonly used parts in automobiles, because all automobile mechanical parts require bolts. We often see the words 4.8\8.8\12.9 on car bolts. In fact, these are the marks of bolt strength grades. The strength grades of bolts refer to the performance grades of bolts used in steel structure connections. Commonly they are grades 4.8, 8.8, 10.9, and there are more than 10 levels including 12.9 level in toyota calya.
The pump is in the fuel tank. To test short pin 1+2 on the air flow meter connector. Turn the ignition key to run position (2 click) and listen for the whir or hum of the pump.
If the U-joint is worn out on part # 45260, then that whole part needs to be replaced. There are no serviceable items on that piece.
In order to remove it, you'll need to remove the retaining bolts part# 90119-08560 (top and bottom of said shaft), then you may have to pry the collars apart to get them to release from the other piece of the shaft.
To make it easier, disconnect the lower portion of the steering shaft from the gearbox/rack and pinion. Also note, the shafts may be D shaped so shaft components may only be installed one way. If they're not, you'll need to mark positions on the remaining shaft components to when you're installing the new part the orientation stays correct.
It also may be beneficial to lock the steering wheel in a set position so it doesn't rotate otherwise your turn signal cams may be in the wrong orientation and may not work properly. i.e. may not lock when depressed, or turn off at the wrong steering wheel position.
It depends on what you need overhauled and what is wrong with it. Check on Swedespeed or turbobricks, or any of the Volvo lists - there may be a Volvo guru near your location who is trusted and has decent prices.
In Colorado, there's Carl Duke Volvo in Loveland and in Denver you have Voltek - both are excellent independent shops with people who love Volvos and know them inside and out. And not just the new stuff.
Make sure you have a good battery/connections. Make sure you have power down to the starter on the B+ terminal if not replace faulty wire or clean/dirty connectionson ensure connections are tight. While someone turns the key make sure you have power in the S terminal. If power make sure the engine isn't locked up and replace the starter. If no power you may have an issue with the ignition switch circuit (stitch, wiring, fuses....)
I experienced the same symptoms that you described in your post on my 1986 mr2. I originally thought is was a relay or switch so I tested all of them. Every one of them check out functioning properly. After a number of days, I finally traced the problem to a burnt wire that was part of a socket that plugs into a horizontal blue and white panel under the dash on the driver's side just above the fuse block. Apparently the wire had come loose after so many years of bumps and other jarring movement and shorted inside the socket. I cleaned up the socket and wire connector, restripped the wire and put it all back together and made sure the connector was tight on the post. Now it all works pefectly.
there is a contact switch that lights that light up when you raise your brake handle. down between the seats where it is located lots of debris settles, and more than likely, some of this has come between the contact point and switch and pushed the switch out of position. you need to remove the cover and the part you are looking for is at the end of the only electrical wires that connect to the brake assembly.remove obstruction and push contact up so that it turns the light off just as the lever is fully seated. then replace cover and your done.
Tony
