20 Most Recent 1986 Toyota MR2 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Check all the small vacuum hoses for leakage or loos fit, check for damaged or broken air intake hose. Check if there is anything loos between throttle body and cylinder head, like broken gasket, craks or so. Idling is adjusted by the ECU and there are no screws anywhere. In most cases, lost vacuum is the reason for high rpm at idling. In some cases it's possible that an O2-Sensor or the cat is bad, and the ECU tries to adjust but get the wrong signals.

I had the same problem. I removed it completely.

the battery can be disconnected if you let it sit for more than a week. most common drain that i encounter is in the audio system. disconnect the negative battery cable and put a test light (wired light bulb) between battery post and cable end. if the light is on or even dim, start pulling fuses one at a time. if the light stays on, replace the fuse and move on. if the light goes out then you have found which circuit the draw is in.

Probably. Over a few months a battery needs to have a float charge on it to expect it to start in the spring. I'd purchase a float charger (quite inexpensive) and hook it up whenever the vehicle is not run at least semi-monthly. Just storing a vehicle is not good. They should be driven, and fully warmed up, say about 10 miles or so, at least once a month. More frequently is better.

check under the water pump for a leak. check for split tanks top and bottom. check bottom hose. check for leaks in the radiator cores . The best way to test is to have a radiator shop pressure test the cooling system then you can see where the leak is

a ford toyota MR2, that must be a tight fit. (a rocket sled?) so send photos.

MR2 my favorite car. wow and no year stated. kicked in , as in , its happy and disabled>>? is this IMMO stock or aftermarket. so is this 100% loss of spark did you use a scan tool or if older than 1996 (USA) use the jumper diagnostic jumper and crank for 5 seconds, to see IF ECU sets codes? for spark, CMP or CKP? use the ECU to tall you why it dont spark, first , after IMMO is happy.

find a real shop, an ASE rated shop and mech. and bingo. real help, not guessing. why not stated how the car drives, and forget the tacho. you have lost power, from the engine, that is the #1 worry here no year stated either. wow, are you kidding? key on, CEL lamp glows? start engine, it goes out, id bet not... if CEL is stuck on, then scan it, or if older MR2 the jumper wire winkly blinky bs. we read out the flash codes. lost engine power? engine stalls? engine misfires. engine lacks power, on hills. engine lacks power wide open throttle? engine shakes.? engine bogs Fuel mileage poor. others, ? the tacho if still good, will show wrong if spark is BAD the tacho uses the spark feed back signal. no year, no joy. sorry

1996? 93? ??? rare post stating the engine option first, wow, your are going places... to me the car body is option, (joking... but think about it....) engine power problems , hot or cold engine or both? bogging i bet is floating... ever do a tune up on this old car. btw, I LOVE This car, its my next car restore.!! after POS have now. bad fuel: bad fuel pressure. (low) clogged injectors, try TECHRON ! (I dont like additives but this works and is safe to engine and CAT.) does the bog, last for ever at WOT, or does it recover. soon. wot is wide open throttle. no stalls? idles nice hot engine, coolant temp holds at 180F? come back.

I bought the manual for my car from this website, and I'm very satisfied about it. Recommend

in your MR2 toyota? really? no matter, try reading the manual.

i love this car. sell me your car. 1986 right>? no supercharger option.i think i already posted to this.IS the check engine light on, key on then go out running? no? ill list the causes. (simple ) for the 50 reasons or better all tests, ask.1: never tuned up. this decade or last 60k miles2: thermostat missing or bad, frigid EFI sucks fuel like crazy .3: too high fuel pressure.4: ECT fibbing (bad) engine temp sensor , 300 ohms hot?5: IAT ,same. (small mpg loss)6: engine bad (low compression on 1 or more...cyl)7: in limphome, yes, use the jumper wire and see the DTC flash codes. TWIN CAM Engine , right?, way advanced for 1986 8: air cleaner filthy. see tune up.9: injectors leak or are clogged.10: 02 sensor stuck at 0 volts. (forces max rich)11: this car has an air flow meter, on front of intake, they get funky after 27 years. of flapping.12: 02 sensor heater is dead. page FI-122 in FSM. 5 to 6 ohms.stop.this is twin cam engine, with Denso EFI, a nice early EFI, in factway ahead of others at this time.that makes it easy to understand, its like todays cars.see? do you need a free FSM. we have it?most cars I restore this old fail all 12 above. all.bad sensors. bad injectors (pro clean them at $20 each) ask)bad fuel pressure regulatorthere are simple test. for each, fail. all car covered in the verygood toyota, book,, each part.what i do ,once tuned,up,i check that coolant hits and holds 180F or more. Pyro gun (IR)it must, if not will suck gas bad !i like to cut corners, in test (mil training)i like to do binary searches, (jump to middle of system and work to fail point)saves time and pain.I check that the engine runs in closed loop first.page FI-120 in the FSM.if it dont, the engine will suck fuel. this is an 0s sensor test.i do it at IDLE and at 2500 rpm as the book shows. (in neutral)see my logic here. i check for perfect closed loop operation.I start with a new 02 sensor, if the prev. owner never did service.if the new O2 is stuck at 0v or .9v , i work that.see how that takes you to the actual problem fastest?it does.do ask questions, we can answer each.how to diagnose, or do any test in the FSM.

wow, i love MR2, sell it to me.... lust..... sorry....... USA Car????????? its sucking fuel, can be lots of things got the FSM yet?, keeping a very old car like this going without the big book is near impossible...... really... why work blind>? you got the 4A non turbo engine>? 1.6 L 4A-GE DOHC I4 (AW11) wiki (USA) As a power plant, Toyota chose to use the naturally aspirated 4A-GE 1,587 cc inline-four engine, a dual overhead-cam, four-valve-per-cylinder motor.[5] This engine was also equipped with DENSO electronic port fuel injection and a variable intake geometry ("T-VIS"), giving the engine a maximum power output of 112 hp first what engine then what fuel injection. Study the Denso system first, then trouble shoot. If I had this, car i'd : 1: make brakes perfect. 2: fix all fuel leaks, every inch checked,!!!! top reason for midengine car fires... 3: compression on all cylinders (WOT) 150PSI or more. 4: full tune up with all fluids. really ! 5: i'd then check all the EFI sensors and have the the injectors pro cleaned off car, (sonic cleaned) 6: engine thermosat holding water temp at 180F or more steady!!! 7: back flush every inch of cooling system and sub parts. after all that id diagnose it. starting with fuel pressure tests , all 6 of them. ask. TSB's the update MR2 engine signal (spark) generators (sensor) old ones are no good. bid away http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Toyota-MR2-Manuals-/181281489430?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item2a35380216

first thing to check is your vacuum lines that is most likely your problem

Apply downward pressure while someone pulls the release. This worked on the enfine cover.

EITHER BURNING OIL, OR EMISSION COMPONENT BAD CAUSING CAR TO RUN TOO RICH