there is a contact switch that lights that light up when you raise your brake handle. down between the seats where it is located lots of debris settles, and more than likely, some of this has come between the contact point and switch and pushed the switch out of position. you need to remove the cover and the part you are looking for is at the end of the only electrical wires that connect to the brake assembly.remove obstruction and push contact up so that it turns the light off just as the lever is fully seated. then replace cover and your done.
If you are talking the a/c pulley and alternator pulley, I am pretty sure the belts are different sizes (different number of ribs in the belt). So, you can just look carefully at the ribs and put the right belt on the right pully. from memory, the A/C belt goes on first and all the pullies towards the front of the car are used for that belt. The Alternator belt goes on next, and all the pullies from the crank shaft toward the back of the car (from the crank pulley) go to that. I could have those reversed, but the ribs on the belt will show you for sure. have fun!
I have that problem with the starters, too. The aftermarket starters are poor, apparently. Could also be an exhaust leak close to the starter causing it to get a little too much heat. When you put in a new starter, does it have any trouble turning the car over? For the other problem, when does it do it? In the middle of a very long ride (1 hour?) or normal driving? when cold or when hot?
Sounds like two issues. The O2 sensor would definitely do the light coming on and off (I have that problem on my MR2 currently). You can jumper the diagnostic ports to flash a trouble code on the dash (my O2 sensor is number 5). And, no, it should not cause the engine to shut off (it automatically uses default air/fuel ratios) I would make sure, however, that there is no bare wire touching somewhere. Now, the other problem sounds like an electrical issue, but it could be caused by heat - what happens with spirited driving at non-highway speeds for the same period of time?
Sounds like the wrong fluid has been put into the brake master cylinder.if so,the seals in the master cylinder will need replacement and the whole system looking at and bleeding.Quite often ATF (automatic transmission fluid) gets put into brake systems by accident and this is always the result.You would need to flush the whole system out to get rid of the fluid.
I guarantee you, the water is not boiling in the reservoir. There is no heat source there, and even if it came out of the radiator boiling, by the time the coolant traveled down the hose to the tank, it would have lost too much heat to boil.
But if steam is coming out of your radiator into that tank, it would look like it was boiling.
It sounds like you have a radiator leak, and that you are therefore low on coolant, and the engine is overheating. With the car stone cold, open the radiator cap and top off the coolant as full as you possibly can, then replace the cap. While you have the cap in your hand, inspect the rubber gasket that seals it when it is installed. If that gasket is not in good shape, the normal operating pressure will force coolant into the radiator excessively, leaving not enough to cool the engine.
After a short drive that is sufficient to reach operating temperature plus about 5 or 10 minutes, and then allowing the car to fully cool, open the radiator to see if it is still full. It should have developed no substantial amount of space above the coolant surface, it should still be full.
If there is space, perhaps there was some vapor trapped somewhere, so try one more time. But if you are developing space in the radiator, you have a leak.
You should be able to do this yourself. Some cables will come out of the
cable housing when disconnected from the back of the speedometer head. You
can pull the cable out and clean it, then put it back in. My guess is that
yours is very dirty, and the gunk & muck are causing the noises you hear.
Squealing sounds like the speedometer head, not the cable, but you
can pull the cable core and clean & lube it to make sure. Lubriplate
would be perfect, but any good white grease will do.
The speedometer cable and casing should be changed as a set, because
the lining on the inside of the casing wears out also and allows the
core to whip. And if the core shreds when it breaks, it really messes
up the inside of the sheath and leaves behind sharp bits of broken
wire. A new cable core in a casing that has had a cable break inside
it may not last long.
could be a mass air flow sensor problem, or a manifold pressure sensor problem. may have several major vacumn leaks that are used to sense and control fuel injection supply pressure and fuel flow. Might check manifold pressure. Check vacumn. inspect lines. there are several lines on air flow inlet. there are several vacumn control valves also. Would suggest obtaining an emmisions line chart. There is usually a decal showing the hose routing on the vehicle some where in the engine compartment.
1986 Toyota MR2 Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Violet
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Tony
