Top 20 1984 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

good luck with that.... buy both FSM and see why ? what country:? here in usa we have FSM and online books so not saying country, cant help. at all. one great source here in USA< is alldata.com

On the valve cover,there's a oil cap,just unscrew.

You may want to get the alternator checked. I have a couple of these vehicles and when a alternator is going out or theres another voltage problems you will get some strange happenings with the dash lights etc.. They will also drop out the high beam side of the headlights in low voltage situations. Loose brushes in the alternators will cause this, as I have found in a couple of aftermarket units.

I would look at the fuel level in the carb and make sure it is at the correct level. This is set by adjusting the float tab in the carb fuel bowl. I would also look at the accelerator pump and make sure the membranes don't have a hole in it or spring in backwards, or is leaking. It sounds like too much fuel is being squirted into the carb with the slightest movement of the accelerator. My Truck was a 1987 California emission vehicle. (Way too complicated carburetor vacuum controlled mixture emission system) I found when ever I did a "carburetor kit", every so many years, it would work great. Since you did a rebuild, and had everything apart, I would just make sure all the vacuum lines and one way valves are correct per the diagram under the hood. There are also some lines that are run through temp sensors on the engine so when it warms up, the vacuum is cut off. My trunk had a "cold engine pump". The vacuum control was shut off when the engine was warm. It would squirt extra gas into the carb to keep the engine from stalling when cold. If the engine is hot, it was too much fuel. With the engine running and hot, set the parking brake and run the engine to 2500 or 3000 RPM with the air cleaner lid off. Move the throttle back and forth and see if you can see fuel being squirted in or not. Please be careful and wear eye protection just in case of flame back. I think doing a careful carb kit and cleaning, plus verifying your vacuum line connections will take care of this problem. What ever you do, don

Is it worth it to change if I want to drive it up to 175k miles, IS WHAT you should ask yourself at this momment. If so, then have the belt changed asap before it busts during driving on the freeway. Nonetheless, you may continue to drive at your own risk. You can reset the programmed light from turning on by removing the red lead from the battery then replacing it.

check an see if you have a alt fuse blown it takes a little juice to the alt to make it put out juice what im saying is get a text light an see if you have power going to the alt its called an exiter wire you haft to exited the alt to get it started haha hope this helped

Blown head gasket is the most likely ... do not ignore this ... have your mechanic look at it as soon as possible ... tomorrow is not too soon. This only gets worse and more expensive with every mile you drive.

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Check this Toyota Pick-ups/Land Cruiser/4Runner 1970-1988 repair guide for Tailgate Window...

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1 and 2) 4Runner Only
POWER WINDOW OPERATIVE

1. Remove the inner tailgate trim.
2. Remove the tailgate plate and the service hole cover.
3. Disconnect the control link for the inside handle at the regulator, remove the 2 mounting screws and lift out the door handle.
4. Disconnect the inside lock knob link at the regulator and remove the knob and link.
5. Remove the upper door trim and the weather stripping.
6. Move the locking assembly into the LOCK position and then raise the rear window until the regulator arms are in a straight line.
7. Disconnect the electrical lead at the regulator. Disconnect the leads for the rear defogger at the window.
8. Disconnect the door lock control cables at the regulator side. Disconnect the 2 remaining leads and the ground cable at the regulator.
9. Remove the 3 regulator mounting bolts and then shimmy it side-to-side until the arms pull away from the glass.
10. Pull out the rear window and remove the regulator.
    

To install:

1. Slide the window into the tailgate.
2. Shimmy the regulator side-to-side until the arms position themselves in the glass channel and then install the regulator mounting bolts.
3. Connect the rear defogger leads to the window. Connect the 2 leads and the ground cable at the regulator.
4. Use the original clamps and connect the door lock control cables to the regulator.
5. Connect the power lead to the regulator.
6. Install the upper tailgate trim and weather stripping.
7. Install the inside lock knob and link.
8. Install the inside handle and connect the control link to the regulator.
9. Seal the service hole cover with butyl tape (6mm), insert the lower edge into the panel **** and then seal the **** with cotton tape being careful not to block the trim clip seats.
10. Install the plate and lower tailgate trim.
    

POWER WINDOW INOPERATIVE

1. Remove the inner tailgate trim.
2. Remove the tailgate plate and the service hole cover.
3. Disconnect the control link for the inside handle at the regulator, remove the 2 mounting screws and lift out the door handle.
4. Disconnect the inside lock knob link at the regulator and remove the knob and link.
5. Remove the upper door trim and the weather stripping.
6. Disconnect the power lead, 2 electrical leads and the ground cable at the regulator.
7. Disconnect the door lock control cables at the regulator.
8. Remove the mounting bolts and lift out the regulator motor. SOMEONE MUST HOLD THE REAR WINDOW while removing the regulator motor!
9. Lower the rear window all the way and open the door by pulling on the control cables. Raise the window until the regulator arms are horizontal and install a small pin into the service hole in the regulator to secure the arms.
10. Disconnect the rear defogger leads at the window.
11. Remove the regulator mounting bolts, slide the regulator side-to-side until the arms pull out of the window channel and then lift out the regulator.
12. Lift out the rear window.
    

To install:

1. Slide the window into the tailgate.
2. Shimmy the regulator side-to-side until the arms position themselves in the glass channel and then install the regulator mounting bolts.
3. Connect the rear defogger leads to the window. Connect the 2 leads and the ground cable at the regulator.
4. Use the original clamps and connect the door lock control cables to the regulator.
5. Connect the power lead to the regulator.
6. Install the upper tailgate trim and weather stripping.
7. Install the inside lock knob and link.
8. Install the inside handle and connect the control link to the regulator.
9. Seal the service hole cover with butyl tape (6mm), insert the lower edge into the panel **** and then seal the **** with cotton tape being careful not to block the trim clip seats.
10. Install the plate and lower tailgate trim.
    

Fig. 1: Rear tailgate and window assembly-4Runner



Fig. 2: Securing the window regulator arms-4Runner


I dont have the wiring diagram, but if I find it, send you in the next days.

Hope helps.

CK PLUG WIRES... SOUNDS LIKE THEY ARE ARCHING UNDER LOAD

I would check for a cracked vacuum hose. This will kill a cylinder at idle. Also bad brake booster will cause this.

check the dome (house) lights curcuit, you may hav a short to ground caused by burnt or corroded contact or brokrn wires

carb or Fuel injected try cleaning either one of these bad distributor cap or rotor or distributor good luck

You may have the mechanical timing (ie, timing belt) off by a tooth. The engine will run that way, but not all that efficiently. That'd be my first suspicion. To fix it, it'll have to be torn down to where the timing belt is visible, as are the cam and crank sprockets and oil pump housing. Then the timing marks can be aligned to see if they all line up as they should.

this is something i do not know but try these websites www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com if you do not have an owner manual for the car try this website its www.edmunds.com to see if you can download one for your SUV

I am pretty sure they are the same.

It could be driver or manufacturer if this eng always blows on other people must be your driving or maintenance or saba toge

you are better off using a unit from an 1984 instead that will match up to your wiring

check the plugs on the front diff or on the back of the transfur case there will be a solenoid in one of these plases and it may need freeing up

You must first, remove the grill on the front of the car. Above the bumper. It has very fragile clips, they have two tabs each, you must line them up with the small slots. Then pull the grill off. Then use a Philip screw driver to unscrew the head light hold down covers then pull the light out and unplug the three wire plug.

these things are not available online due to copyright restrictions. you must get a paper manual.