Check the coil, the distributor, points (if it has points - not sure if that one's electronic or not), cap, rotor. Check the voltage going to the coil when the key is turned to "on", and again when the key is turned to "start".
basics, always works. they are.
1: good engine?, (compression over 150psi cranked w.o.t)
2: good spark , got spark to all cylinders?. (a simple test)
3: fueling good. (not too lean, not flooding)???
from 1920 to now, all cars running on gasoline.
i can advice a simple test for each, non are complex. or costly .
if spark is good, and test fuel fails (spray)?
i bet you skipped #1 ,
here is a guy running a gas motor with no fuel in car. period
see?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=HhXwVhYfPm8#t=141s
he is a human carb. here.
just keep eyes away from the induction ports , in case it backfires.
dont 1000 of times by me.
one other tests is to (EFI) is to kill EFI (pump relay pull)
and start car on test fuel.
this helps prove engine was flooded and runs. like above.
also the opr.guide told you to clear floods with
WOT, wide open cranking, this tells tells the ECU to cut fuel 100%
to clear any flood, this works on all cars.
Sound like a fuel problem check and make sure that fuel pump is working efficiently or at the time when Engine dies check for whats missing its either gas or spark . Get back to me if you need more help. ps on those cars if its loosing spark there is an igniterthat's mostly to be blamed. Good Luck
