2007 Toyota Corolla - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Pastor Norman, Pastor Dave here.Since you already replaced the left rear brake light bulb and that didn't help, please take that bulb socket out again as you did before, and find a way to test the bulb contact for electricity when the brake lights are on. You should get 12 volts out of the "hot" metal contact. If the other two lights are on, and you have no current in the socket, you either have a bad socket, or a broken wire somewhere. One way is to go back a few inches and skin off the insulation of the brake light wire and see if there is current back a few inches from the socket. Cover with tape when you finish.If you decide to cobble a solution, you could run a good wire from the other brake light that works and splice it in to the dead wire.Be Blessed.

Toyota Corolla Verso - Central locking has just stopped responding So you don't waste your time, here are some assumptions: - 1. When I press the key fob there is no sound of doors trying to lock/unlock and I know the key fob is fine. Solution: In this situation reset the alarm/locking system Below is the procedure I followed to get the central locking working again: - Open the passenger door, and look at the side of the dash board. There should be a triangular panel. Pull the panel off to reveal a small set of fuses(see the back of the panel for the fuse map). To power down the central locking you need to remove the Dome Light fuse, this is located top left. Second one down 7.5 amps. (if in doubt remove the top two 7.5 amp fuses I did) When you remove the fuse(s) you will notice the interior light go out indicating you have powered down the system. Now leave them out for at least 30 mins so any capacitors can discharge properly. (Be aware while the fuse is removed all central locking is disabled, so the other doors are open. I left the fuse(s) out over night with all the doors open but I don't recommend it, 30 mins should be fine) After 30 mins replace the fuse(s) close all doors, and then try your key fob, hopefully you should here that satisfying locking sound. 2. When I press the key fob I hear the locking system trying to engage. This could be a faulty door switch on any door including the boot, or there could be a dent in the inner door panel of any of the doors, usualy the rear doors due to the seat belt not retracting properly. Solution: Check all door switches for damage, and check inner panel for dents, just a small dent where the switch connects can be enough to not engage the switch. This will stop the central locking. Use some kitchen roll wrapped in tape (as a makeshift pad) and tape to the inner door as a temp measure to engage the door switch. At least you can then lock the car.

Unless the car is sold in the USA or other english language country there is no manual.

Vacuum tubing is inexpensive. I would just change the tubing, deposits build up in there. it`s easy and less time consuming. Those lines also become brittle with age,as well. Snip off a piece and take it with you,as there are several different sizes.

Ha, what COULD be the problem? Almost anything! I expect you'll find it's just a sensor, though. To find out what is making that light appear, you can usually pop into an auto parts store and they'll hook up the reader to your car and tell you what it says.

You can have your transaxle rebuilt for $2000.00 or lessno need to be at a dealer

Try to check the wiring could be a loose connectio, Fuse or bulbs.

solonoid sensor ?? please be more specific as never heard of such a thing

I would check for voltage at the dimmer switch first.

oh now did it snap crackle and pop? I am not trying to be sarcastic, its a valid question. Red is wire is + and black wires are -. Try also adding water to the cells and maybe battery charger. How old is the battery?

have you checked under your stearing wheel just above the pedals on your right hand...

What did you plug in? I had a similar issue when I plugged in a high amp tire pump. It kept blowing fuses because the pump itself had a short. Be wary of using stuff like that in the cig lighter. I switched to a hand held pump. How was the computer found to be defective? I wonder if the cig issue shorted the computer?

fuse boxes on most things are under dash driver side,dash side under cover,under dash pass. side , under hood some have more than one,

Your A/C system is computer controlled. Resolving your issue must begin by FIRST performing diagnostics to determine the CAUSE of the problem. This involves checking system pressures, as well as interfacing with your onboard computer network using the proper equipment and techniques . Until this is done, nobody can do much more than GUESS what is causing your issue.

its not the computer

The most helpful authority for optional tire sizes with experience is probably "The Tire Rack"...online at "TireRack.com. These guys and gals are Pros at "Performance or Optional" tires. Remember after fitting your Corolla with any new tires...you need to include a four wheel alignment to insure the best performance, and mileage. Also be sure to confirm the recomended tire pressure.

The electronic fuel injection system in your 2007 Toyota Corolla is an extremely technologically advanced, computer controlled, engine fueling system that consists of hundreds of parts, sensors, solenoids, relays and electrical circuits. It also consists of a computer-controlled pump as well as high-pressure lines and fittings that deliver the fuel from the fuel tank to the injectors. The computer system that controlls your fuel injection system has nearly 100,000 times the computing ability of the computers that were on the Apollo space craft that put put man on the moon.To say something as simple as "fuel injection problem" and expect a viable "solution" for your problem is like saying "water problem" at Niagra Falls and expecting somebody to fix it for you.What kind of "fuel injection" problem? Have you tried interfacing with the computer that controls your fuel injection system? If so, what did it tell you? If not, that would be a real good place to start.

There are many parts of your security system that can cause inadvertant sounding of the alarm. It could be anything from a courtesy light switch, hood switch, trunk switch or even a glass breakage sensor or a failed security module. There are no specific known problems with this particular vehicle line that I am aware of. I did perform a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) search for 2007 Toyota Camry and found no TSBs related to this problem description.The only thing I know to tell you is that the system needs to be checked out by a trained tecnician that has the proper tools and equipment to verify all of the circuits and components involved in your theft deterrent system.

the auto-transmission control linked to accelerator pedal might have changed its position.loosen the screw on the sliding lever,start the engine ,slowly slide the lever and once it started engaging set t/m about 900rpm.

most times itsthe vent valve on the charcol canister by the gas tank. the vent valve is normaly open so when the purge valve on the engine requests the fumes stored in the char/can ,it draws thru. at times the system runs a check by closing the vent valve and opening the purge valve ,then it monitors the MAP sensor, if the pressure fluctuates it trips the code for small leak. other than an obvious hole in the lines this is the only "moving"part in the system that gets exposure to salt spray n road grit..remember it is usualy open and under the car