20 Most Recent 2005 Toyota Tacoma - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem. I figure that dirt/rust may have accumulated inside the latching mechanism. I was able to fix it using the following steps.
1 - Remove the plastic cap that covers the top of the gate.
2 - Remove as many of the remaining torx bolts from the inside cover (you will need to do this to get inside the gate).
3 - Next, try and get some WD40 on/in the latch mechanism.
4 - Using a large screwdriver, you will need to pry the lever attached to the cable in order to release the latch.

Not a pretty process but it seemed to work. I give the latches a good lubrication frequently now, until I get around to replacing them.

Maybe you should call a Priest??? Lol...If memory serves that falls in the years of the big frame recall. Sounds like a wire or wires may be pinched or broken. Get a Chiltons book and start tracking the wires of the individual circuts that a giving you trouble

If engine was just rebuilt and you have low compression on one side either the job was botched or perhaps the plugs are not in all the way and are not tight resulting in compression loss. If they are in properly you have a valid complaint against those folks that worked on your engine. Could also be valves that are not seating properly or bad piston rings.

Have you adjusted valves? Tested for spark? Did old engine go bad due to weak spark or low fuel pressure? Start by running basic tests=fuel pressure at key on, spark at plugs, correct timing.

Turn signal switch died.

U a testlite to chec fuse...just cause they look gud dont work. Cud also b a switch..wiring or relay

Parts swapping by code definition is reasonably good gambling, but it is in fact gambling. Your code was for bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit stays HIGH. That means there is a short to voltage or low resistance in the load side. (The sensor itself). If you changed the sensor with a NEW AND CORRECT PART...that is key BTW, there are a few different sensors in the world that share plug shapes and have different values. But that aside, you need to test the power input to the heater and see what its doing and then the PCM ground and see what ITS doing. The code can be set if there is power when there shouldnt be, or if the ground side cannot pull the circuit to ground...which is either a failed load (low resistance/uncontrolled amperage exceeding the capability of the driver) OR the driver itself has melted (seen it a few tymes) or a 12v wire has rubbed through and is shorting to the heater ground and holding it high. This is what a technician will check next.

go to an auto parts store and they can look it up and sell you one that is for your car.

fuses , check fuses

if your vehicle gets hot when the fan is off,then there is a problem,if it doesnt get hot,then find something else to worry about

by chance have you looked at the air horn (the ducting from the air box to the throttle body)? if this was done by a shop, its very probable that they removed it to sell you a throttle body cleaning. check where the oil filter is and look around the location to find something that may have been hit or cut when the oil filter was removed. let me know.

this is easy, 'an ECU pro, (custom) retired. uSA car, assume1 has OBD2 PCM, see above. the first error is not checking spark at every spark plug, no engine stated but its I4, sure. it has 4 cops with DIS igntion system great hint there.!!!! if one cop dead, one cop bad if all 4 dead, the PCM has CMP/CKP errors (sensors) so you failed to spend cash on a real scan tool, not 4 useless cops. then youd done this, (posted 100 times, )

1. check all fuses first with voltmeter (sans fsm schematic, sad to do all)
2. keyon, CEL lamp most glow ! if not fuses blown.
3. connect OBD2 scan tool, if comm fail no, the fuse on pin 16 of DLC is blown , fix fuse, yes, scan tool now works ! talks.
4. i crank for 5 seconds,
5. i release key, not off, BINGO DTCS for sensors dead,
6. works on all cars 1987 to now,, all ecus will tell you this. just LOOK in fact they all report 1 pulse in 10 missing, (FSM words)

scan tools work they can be barrow, bought, rented, ) A DEAD car needs a tool that is if you dont wont to go broke guessing what input to ecu is dead,(CKP./CMP) fails cold, so my guess is you missed one sensor now wild guess2, sure im blind and blind messup 90% say all cop coils do spark , testing errors. say you check spark timing on #1 its way off, the cam has slipped, i can say what, no engine stated and compression is 1/2 normal, that be first on older cars, if sparks good, and compresion good, try test fuel cold run now? if spark is good and timing good, use wide open throttle to clear flooding on all cars. it cuts fuel. if id dont clean spark must be bad, takes spark on all 4 not just one, so.... not stated. you need to do tests, and stop guessing at parts if you put in just 1 bad part, now you have horrid,double failure. for sure, do that tests and STOP guessing.and win.

start with the little wires going to each wheel, it should be the only wire of any kind anywhere near the where the wheel is installed, usually those wires are the first to break due to the wheel moving up and down a lot from bumps and turns.

HUH?

tracking or tyre pressures ?

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