20 Most Recent 1991 Peugeot 405 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I think that the petrol part is correct. An egg cup full should start the engine. Try this.. spray some starting fluid into the intake of the carburetor and try to start. If it does start for a few seconds then you have a fuel delivery problem, with a possible plugged up carburetor. If not, then the ignition system may be bad. You said that you had no spark at the plug when turning over I presume.
This means that the vehicle may have a bad CKP or crankshaft position sensor if so equipped.
Good luck on this repair.

try checking fuses

There are two things that it can be. One the idle control motor. Which I would think that that is what has been replaced. And could be out of adjustment. Or the throttle positioning sensor.

Hi

trhe ticking noise is the relays, however the most likely cause of this fault is the drivers door wiring, very common Peuegot fault with opening and closing the door the wires within the black plastic sleave start to wear and then contact each other, do you electric windows work? central locking? had any issues with these at all? is there anything electrical that sometimes works and sometimes does not?

Regards
Dan

Hi

Hope this is helpful, if you need more info get back to me.


1, park car, handbrake on
2, loosen drivers side front wheel bolts,
3, crawl under car use 22mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, it'll probably be quite tight, once undone nip it up again not to tight,
4, open bonnet,
5, jack drivers side of car up, put on axle stand
6, remove wheel
7, loosen and remove intercooler bolts, then intercooler
8, find 6mm allen key
9, behind the starter motor there is a hole in the gearbox housing, put the allen key in it, (may be easier to undo and remove the 3 starter motor bolts)
10, get a 22mm socket put it on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft bolt clockwise whilst at the same time pushing the allen key into the hole (easier with an assistant but can be done solo) keep turning until the allen key drops into the hole(you'll understand when you do it, may have to turn the engine for quite some time reasonably slowly),
11, thats the engine now on it's timing marks,
12, now put a trolley jack and block of wood under the sump and jack it up until it takes the weight of the engine,
13, remove the left hand side engine mount, basically move the fuel primer to one side, remove the rubber bung if there, then carefully undo the 4 5/8 size bolts and remove the top half of the mount (careful engine doesn't suddenly slip of jack and trap your hand),
14, now remove the 10mm bolts holding the front cambelt cover on, then do the same for the rear cover, except there is one bolt at the back of the cover which is 11mm,
15, now looking at both of the exposed pulleys you will 2 timing holes with a threaded insert behind, on the cam pulley it's at about 4 o clock and i think 2 o clock on the fuel pump, now find the 2 short bolts from the intercooler, they are the right size to fit in the timing holes,
16, now under the arch, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pull of the pulley,
17, now remove the lower cambelt cover, all 10mm bolts,
18, now look at the new belt tensioner and you'll see a square hole in it, find the same hole on the car, a short 3/8 socket extension will fit in there and you can then use a ratchet to apply or release the tension,
19, undo but don't remove the two bolts holding the tensioner, now use your ratchet to push the tensioner towards the windowscreen, whilst holding it there use your other hand to release the belt from behind the tensioner,
20, with the belt now loose remove it from round the rest of the components,
21, now replace the waterpump,
22, now replace both the tensioner and idler pulley, to do this you'll need to remove the rest of the metal engine mount, the bolts are quite obvious,
23, replace the belt in the same manner you removed it,
to tension the new belt pull the ratchet towards you then tighten the tensioner bolts at the same time,
24, with the tensioner tightened push the belt in the middle between the two pulleys you should have about half an inch of deflection if correct (check the old belt before removing to give you an idea),
25, now remove the two timing pins in the pulleys and the allen key,
screw the crankshaft pulley bolt into it's hole (leave the pulley off) if you keep screwing it in then the engine will turnover,
26, turn the engine over by hand at least 8 times, then put the timing pins back in as you did at the start, if you've done it all right it'll turn over with no issues
27, recheck the tension again,
28, if alls well then refit the lower cambelt cover,
29, refit the crankshaft pulley,
30, refit everything you've removed, torque all required bolts correctly (except crankshaft pulley which is done last)
31, remove the allen key (2 intercooler bolts will have already been done when fitting the covers and intercooler,
32, turn the engine over again by hand to check there's no rubbing on the cam covers or any other issues,
33, if alls well then top up the engine coolant as you'll have lost alot when doing the waterpump, bleed it properly,
34, put the road wheel back on, lower the car to the ground then torque up the crankshaft pulley bolt,
35, job done start her up then tidy up

Regards

Dan

WIPER BLADES MORE LIKELY FROZEN STUCK. OR HAVE A LOT OF SNOW ON THEM. YOU HAVE TO CAREFULLY REMOVE SNOW OR ICE TO FREE WIPER BLADES THEN THEY WILL WORK AGAIN.

I found a drawing that may help you. Let me know if it does.

The website is: http://www.autodata.ru/efisakh/melochi_9.htm

Scroll down to the bottom of the page and it has your Peogeot belt drawing.

Hope this helps

maybe moisture in fuel freezes fuel line

diesel fuel conditioner unfreezes lines and cleans injectors just ask them at the parts store it should be somewhere near the oil section usually good luck and thanks

no its not left handed thread its just in a awkard position and its a uk reg vehicle which means its corroded to the proverbial ,soak it in engine oil and leave it for couple of days then it will undo if your lucky ,think you may be undoing the wrong one as it goes as i think ,if my brain is in gear that their is another one that put the spanner on and turn clockwise and it then moves against the spring .?'

its sounds like a grounding fault these are very difficult to locate but if u find an auto electrician with patients & guide him/her then you might get lucky!

the rubber can be done with a universal strip but the trim will be dealer only and i have no idea of the cost ,sometimes its cheaper in the dealer though than you think

Seperate all the burnt wiring and replace, this is easy by cutting out the burnt area and 'patching in a new piece of wire, use the colour coding of the wire to ensure you dont get any wires mixed up

no you have forgotten to re connect a lead on the positive terminal ,i think their are three cables ,one big thick one and two smaller ones that supply power to the fuse supply under the bonnet

Yes, I agree

Here is what it looks like off the engine, I hope that helps

did you know that peugeot made the shittyest transmissions ever but any who take it to a car parts store and have them test it for free.

check the wires in the rubber boot near the door hinge, the alarm wires are there and it is a known peugeot weakness