20 Most Recent 1997 Jeep Cherokee - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Your washer pump and resorvoir are located inside the drivers fender. You may need to take off the wheel to have better acces but, you will need to remove the plastic fender trim and you will see the resorvoir located inside. The pumps are attached to the resorvoir.

one of the lines may be clogged.take them off and check them run water through them and if it wont go through then you need to but new hoses/lines.

your local dealer would have the detailed information you need.(wiring schematic/ diagram for under dash)
Best regards
Ck

It has one coil on that year Jeep Cherokee 4.0

I Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board.

Short story long: I have a 97 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 138,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code and primary coil/ secondary ignition code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays and replaced the coil and iac valve. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. I cut the screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head) with a pair of wire cutters , and shes been running great ever since

right i have scanned the information but you will only see a X you will have to wait a day or so as they documents i scanned have to be censored but the head bolts are showing as 113/115 nm main bearings 74 nm ,big ends 34+95? flywheel 75nm inlet manifold 23nmexhaust manifold20,oil pump 14nm sump 11nm hope this helps piston ring gaps 4th per inch diameter of bore grease end and main shells when installing ,it helps check side movement on rings in the piston groves and use a old piston ring ,broke in two to clean the piston ring grooves bring pistons down in bore so none of then are within an inch of the top of the bore for fitting the head ,dont want bent pistons do we now

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

You may have fuel flooding. As a first course of action, please do change the spark plugs and plug wires for better fuel burning.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

It sometimes will continue to run until the engine cools down. Is it always after you have been driving it for awhile?
rmich

ok hold the unlocking latch as if you are opening the door and use your fingure or a screw drive to bring the locking mechanism on the side of the door back to position(where the door locks to the frame of the car)

I would try reprogramming the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitters before looking for anything else. Make sure the batteries in the RKE transmitters are good and replace them if in doubt. Here's the procedure for programming the RKE transmitters.

Up to 4 Transmitter Identification Codes (TIC's) can be programmed into the receiver at any given time.

1. Open the driver's door of the vehicle. Leave it open through the programming procedure.
2. Move the mechanical door lock lever to the LOCK position.
3. Insert the ignition key and turn it to the RUN position.
4. Turn the ignition to the RUN position. Within 20 seconds, aim a transmitter at the receiver dome and press the lock button, for at least 5 seconds. Once the receiver accepts the programming code the driver's door will unlock.
5. Once the first transmitter has been programmed, additional transmitters (up to 4) may be programmed into the receiver. Within 20 seconds of the previous transmitter programming, move the mechanical door lock lever to the Lock position. Aim another transmitter at the receiver dome and press the LOCK button for at least 5 seconds. The door lock will cycle again.
6. To lock the programmed codes into the receiver, the ignition must be turned off and back on within 20 seconds after programming the last transmitter's code. At that time, all previous codes are erased from the module.

If the alarm still doesn't work correctly, you probably have a bad Alarm Module.
Click here also; http://www.scribd.com/doc/20110658/Keyless-Entry-System-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee

If you can crack open the connection at the tank, I would do that to see if there is fuel getting past the filter/regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is an integral component of the fuel filter, which is mounted on top of the fuel pump module, located in the fuel tank. When the fuel filter/regulator assembly requires service, the fuel tank must be removed from the vehicle, however, the fuel pump module does not need to be removed.
If there is no fuel at the connection to the tank, the regulator has likely failed or perhaps the pump impeller has failed. Please let us know if you have more questions.

is the timing right.

It will be on the thermostat housing.Hope this helps

problebly an inside leaking off olie by the overdrive bearing

what do yo mine by brakes in my window

didint it start after yo replaced the parts or before.

can yo read out ,the obd with a dignostic tool
do yo have a failre code

BAD GROUND!!!!!!!!!

Check the fuse it sounds like you blew a fuse