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1999 Saab 9-5 - Page 6 Questions & Answers
1999 saab no heat driver side
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9 
1 Minute Ago
You don't have to remove the dash. You can get to the broken part from underneath. I ordered a replacement aluminum blend door stop arm to repair the plastic one that breaks and it cleared all the heater problems and codes.Usually it is just the stop arm that broke but sometimes after the stop arm breaks, the shaft can fracture also. In my case, it was just the stop arm.I originally ordered the stop arm from SAABSite for the left side which I found had broken. It worked but I did have a little trouble getting the new part on. I think most of my difficulty was because the manufacturing of the part from SAABSite was not very good. The hole with the keyways was not round but was uneven and rough. It looked like someone didn't use the right tool to drill it but instead bored it out with too small of a drill bit. I've got a little experience in a machine shop and so I was really surprised/disappointed at this workmanship. I had to clean it up with my tools.After doing all this, I decided to replace the right side stop arm as well as a precaution. I went on Ebay and found and ordered the same type of part... $32. The Ebay item price was much better due to cheaper shipping which was actually A LOT faster getting to me so a win-win all ways around. I was very happy to find the part from Ebay was much higher quality. That is the one I would recommend if you were to buy. However, I also noticed that the motor shaft on my right side had slipped as you describe. At first I pushed it in too far because when I put the cover back on, it would stall... I found the other end of the shaft that pokes out the back was contacting the cover. I repositioned it again and had no further problems.
I had white smoke from
Sounds to me like they did a bad head job. No pun intended. lol, White smoke indicates moisture in exhaust but black smoke indicates a oil leak. I would take it back and have them check the job they did. If the car is over heating then the head gaskets are pretty much blown.
Have to restart the car to make turn signal work
Before i do anything i would first have the computer scanned for any stored codes. codes are stored in the computer when it sees a problem.this is for the engine problem. the signal problem may not be related.I would have the ignition switch look at. If there is a problem with the switch it may cause both of your problems.There are many auto part stores that will scan the computer for free. they will give you a print out of the codes. if you get me the codes i will try to help you solve these problems. good day.
The car can not idle it will stall out and very
FIRST THING THAT I DID WAS SOME FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER,NEW PLUGS,CHECKED ALL VACUUM LINES,CLEANED THE THROTTLE WITH A CAN OF CHOKE CLEANER.BUT WARNING DO NOT START YOUR CAR UNTIL YOU PUT THE THOSE BACK ON THE THROTTLE BODY.CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON.MY LAST RESORT WAS AND AJUSTMENT I FOUND IN FRONT OF THE THROTTLE BODY GAS PEDDLE CABLE IT'S A HORSESHOE CLIP YOU AND TURN ALIITLE COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE AND PUT IT FORWARD TILL IT IDOLS A LITTLE OVER 1000 RPMS.SO WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR IT WILL IDLE AROUND 750 TO 800 RPMS GL
I have changed the throttle body and the front o2
WELL ON MINE I LOOKED REAL HARD UNDER THE HOOD AND FOUND A VACUUM LINE OFF.FIXED IT BUT IDLE STILL WAS LOW.SO I WENT TO THE THROTTLE BODY WHERE THE PEDAL CABLE WAS AND FACEING ME WAS A SMALL HORSESHOE CLIP THAT I HAD TO TURN COUNTER CLOCK WISE AND MOVED IT FORWARD A COUPLE OF KNOTCHES TO MAKE THE IDOL JUS OVER 1000 RPM'S SO WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR IT WAS STEADY AND NOT AT A LOW IDOL.SO FAR SO GOOD HAVEN'T TAKEN IT FOR A RIDE YET BUT IT;S BETTER THEN STALLING OUT, GOOD LUCK
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