20 Most Recent 1995 Land Rover Discovery - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Remove the front wheels and four wheel drive hubs.
The hub is pressed off using a bolt threaded in the center to push on the front axle.
Remove the hub to disc bolts.
Replace the disc and reinstall the disc to hub bolts torqued to 73 Newton Meters with loctite 270 applied to the threads.

Land Rover Part # RTC 6481. I have the same issue when mine pops out of track. This part is available in UK, but I don't n=know of a US supplier.

on a gas engine in the disco, it's bolted to the throttle body. on the right side of the engine. where the black plastic air intake tube meets the engine. there are two throttle cables coming across the top of the engine, from the left side. they attatch to the throttle body. the tps. is the only sensor on the tb

if i remember correctly, there's a small phillips head screw on the back of the key, take that out and the back half comes off. if there's no screw, you've got to pry the back half off. once it's off, you'll see how the button battery is situated. flat side should be toward you.

You are jumping to conclusion, it could just be failure of your body control module. It can be expensive as only the dealership can replace it.

Your best bet with any radio install is to wire both the positive and negative leads directly to the battery. While it might be convenient to use an existing, unused +12V feed, the interference any stray RF power can cause to existing vehicle systems is very unpredictable.

Best bet is to trace across the front of the headliner and go down the passenger side "A" post. From there you should be able to make an easy hole for the power leads adjacent to the radio antenna wire. This is the wire that comes out of the firewall and loops directly into the passenger's side front fender.

Also, be cautious with your mounting and drilling, as some discos have an ultrasonic sensor for the alarm system in the center roof area.

Good luck!

check battery connections are clean and tight check main engine to body earth cable for condition and security check connections at starter motor to check for engine earth problem put a good quality jump lead between bat neg terminal and engine crank and see if ok

remove top of fan cowling 2 clips draw a diagram of belt route put spanner on tensioner pulley bolt turn clockwise remove belt with assistant helping keep tensioner pulled back fit new belt over pulleys release tensioner onto belt refit cover

possible cause of leaks the oil filter the oil pressure switch oil could be running down from cam cover leaking gasket; could be camshaft oil seal best to clean oil run car try to pinpoint where it is coming from .

could be eithor

AAMCO gives free estaments and they are the experts in this feild

Yes there is. On the firewall, right side.

All power windows and sunroofs are controlled through a central module located behind the glovebox. The window problem is very common and is the result of a bad solder joint within the Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The sunroof problem is tied to the same unit, commonly caused by water intrusion into the unit. Is your passenger side footwell carpet wet?

Only the dealer will have this info. They can look it up using the VIN.

Gear clunking is normal in the Rover's transfer case. It uses straight cut gears - they are stronger, but louder. If not out of the T-Case, check the front driveshaft - another common wear point.

This problem is usually caused by a faulty ignition module (Rover calls them Ignition Amplifiers). Rover placed them on the side of the distributor, where they are subject to overheating, resulting in premature failure. They do offer a relocation kit that solves the problem - it is, like most things rover, pretty expensive.

Have you checked the switch is not pressed to disengage the rear windows. The center switch in the centre console by the other window switches. Or it could be a faulty switch.

: The keyfob may have lost synch, put the key in the door and turn to lock, hit the lock button and hold for a second. then do the same for unlock.

before you go changing anything else do a compression and cylinder leak down test, just a thought

I'm not sure myself but do this test, find a baron stretch of road and drive up to 40 mph, then apply the brakes very firmly to try and lock the front brakes, you will notice 1 of 2 things, if the tires lockup and screech then no ABS, if you get a grinding pulsing action that doesn't sound good, then yes you have ABS, this action allows the wheels to continue to rotate to a certain degree. Good luck