20 Most Recent 2002 Renault Sportwagon Questions & Answers

It sounds like a blown head gasket.

could be the lower ball joint or the idler, idler usually when goes it will wobble while driving and pull to one side at a time, more so when braking. its attached to the steering, its most probably this, check it and if there is a lot of movement in it then replace it. if its un easy on bumpy roads it can also be the drop links these do go and need replacing from time to time as they control the anti roll bar, and bumpy roads damage them.

first thing to check is oil level. some diesels will use some oil. if this is real heavy soot and moisture, it could be the fuel distributor/pump going out. how does it run? if its running poorly, this could be your answer. check the valve adjustment(lash) for proper adjustment also.

I cahnged mine yesterday and it's very easy. .There is another bolt located towards the top front of the light unit which can be accessed from inside the boot. There is a hole is packed with a sponge filler. Once you unscrew the bolt then the whole unit should pull off. When you get your new unit you should be able to see where the fixing point is. Hope this helps.

get OBD codes read as could be a sensor acting up when hot , could be the starter solenoid is overheating ,have the battery checked for holding charge as may not be as good as you think and takes a while to recover once not recieving charge, one of these three things is most likely

In the end of key card is a key. Passengers side door handle has key hole, ( I think u have to take plastic cover off). Ive had to unlock car this way b4, I would think it would lock it too. Not sure if meant for a permanent use though. Hope this helps.

Yes, I have had the same problem, only 50 years ago. Here are 3 solutions for you. If you put a fan heater under the bonnet, you must then have electricity available to run electric things to the van. There are 2 main things that prevent it starting in such weather. First is the motor oil. When It gets so cold, it almost turns motor oil to jell or jelly and prevents the engine from turning over. Car dealers and car parts stores in Northern climes sell an "engine block heater" that you plug in when the temperature is cold at night. I have gone places in the Northern US and Canada and seen almost all vehicles with the electric cord and plug hanging out of the front grille to be plugged in in cold weather. Those are affixed to the engine to heat it.An alternative good thing to do is take a heat lamp or even an old electric blanket, and put (or point it) at the bottom of the crankcase pan. (That's the pan where you change the motor oil.) Also, be certain you are using 5W-20 or 5W-30 motor oil, as it is made for that temperature. Second problem is your battery, A heat lamp or small electric blanket wrapped even partly around the battery will warm it to start better,. Lastly, I lived in such temperature, and since I once worked at a service station, I added another battery to the original under the hood, and ran two extra battery cables, which made the car start wonderfully at 30 below 0. ( -30 F )Be Blessed.

Fit them to the crank shaft, that gives you the rough positions. Given you have changed the valves in order and properly sprung you can set the bottom pully to the top(12 0'clock) position, noting which piston is at the top of its stroke, or vary it slightly so its at stroke, Check your head against the block and turn the cam so the inlet valve for that chamber is open. do the same with the next piston in your firing sequence, turning the camshaft accordingly, to ensure the inlet valve opens fully. Fit the gasket and tighten the nuts down lightly, set up the timingmarks by eye,fit the belt and by turning the bottom pully you should find there is no resistance between the piston heads and the valve seats, thats why you don't tighten the head down as not to damage the valves if not firing in line. You should be ok though, tighten the head down slowly checking the pistons and valve contact is not an issue, turning the engine with the socket a full revolution with every turn of the bolts. Once fully tightned, before torquing, turn the engine FULLY to ensure there is NO piston/valve contact, then fit all ancillaries, set timing using a standard strobe and the distributer. Hope this helps, it should do, Regards Dave

You have to pre bleed the master cylinder or it will never work. Parts stores sell a tubing kit for this job. essentailly a hose goes from the output to the fluid reservior. Your clutch pedal sounds like it has spring assist. so you need to manually pull it back... It may be easier to pull the cylinder and bench bleed....

anyways, do not let fuid run low while bleeding the rest of the system.

the only thing you can do is if it is a genuine peugeot radio unit you need to goto the maiv dealer with your details

at the back of the engine block, there is a black box, remove this, and check all cables underneath, reinsualte where required then keep the box removed.