20 Most Recent 1993 Lincoln Town Car - Page 9 Questions & Answers

you most likely won't have to do much, charge the battery new fuel the best you can buy, a can of seaFome in the tank make sure its full of oil and antifreeze, after you warm it up and make sure the thermostat opens then change the oil and filter then drive the wheels off it. also make sure their are no weather cracks in the tires, if after driving you pick up a vibration you may have to replace the tires, some times after sitting in the same spot for a long time the steel belts in the tires will stack up causing a vibration.

have fun

This is a common problem for Lincoln/Ford products. The most common cause is a bad or stuck door switch. The hard part is determining which switch is causing the problem. If it's a stuck switch, liberally spray lubricant (WD-40 or something similar) on the door switches. After spraying the switches, work them in and out by hand 10-20x to get the lubricant to work itself into the switch. If after performing this procedure the lights stay on (door ajar) then you've got a bad switch and need to replace it.

Do you hear the motor coming on? And do the rears work? Do you hear air coming out of the front bags? Are they just not inflating but your hear the air escaping? I doubt that the solenoid mechanically would be bad but possible better bet would to check voltage making sure its receiving power when the leveling module calls it out. Your air ride system has a diagnostic plug for troubleshooting. I'm sure your local dealership would have the ability to test it. I'm not going to get into anymore detail than this thanks.

could be any number of faults but the most obvious to me is a flat bettery try giving it a jump start with some proper cables and them made in china things ,they are only good for a boost charge not a jump start ,cables must be capable of passing at least 200amp current

YOU HAVE INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAK ALSO COULD HAVE BAD OR STICKING INTAKE VALVES. CODE PO 226 IDM SIGNAL NOT RECEIVED AND CODE PO 542 FUEL PUMP SECONDARY CIRCUIT.

If you search on www.youtube.com you may well find a video of someone pulling a wiper motor
w/linkage on a 90s lincoln, full size mercury, or ford. They will all be about the same process,
if you can not find a video then buy a repair manual on CD over on eBay for about 10 bucks.
When you have the linkage out and in your hands you will see what has failed, I would guess the arm that bolts on one end to the end of the motor's shaft and snaps or bolts on the other end to the end of the linkage. On a car that old you are going to be looking for a new wiper motor or a used transmission, should be plenty of them around in junkyards as the air suspension systems failed and they were too expensive to repair. A junkyard can give you an interchange number for the part and that will help you find a similar linkage in other years and other FOMOCO models. Possibly someone makes an aftermarket for the linkage, but I doubt it.

replace blades bad blades.

When the light comes on, take it to a large auto parts like Autozone etc. These guys will hook up their hand held analyzer and read a code, then do a printout with what it means. Easy to do and it is free.

This sounds like a starter solenoid problem. Replace the solenoid. On some cars it is located on the starter itself, on others it is a separate unit.

First off, when was last healthy tune up? Plugs, plug wires, all filters including fuel filter??? I would start there and see if that cures your "miss".

Change the starter and the solenoid. The starter is drawing to much current for the solenoid to handle. Meaning the starter is on it's way out and the solenoid is on it way to because of the starter.

The electronic heat a/c unit has a self test mode . to activate you can hold warmer and off at the same time to activate[not sure which 2 to press..] this will give you a fault code .also a common problem is the heater lockout which doesnt let heater work till engine is warm. that is on the heat hose under hood and you can unplug the connection and jump 2 wires to the conn. .hope that helps

Not positive, but I believe you have to press the lower balljoint out of and into the A frame arm.
So you either need to remove the whole A arm, or use a mobile press that can do it on the spot.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

This appears to be a large joint, so no guarantee this press will work absolutely. But heat on the arm around the joint may help. And going in should be easier than coming out, as long as you don't let it get canted at an angle. If you burnt he paint off the arm, repaint to prevent rust.

may be a vacuum line is disconnected, cracked or broken

You need a 65 series, here are specs:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Battery,-Group-Size-65,-850-CCA-AutoCraft-Gold_2040468-P_2916_R'GRPBATTAM2_1371784389___

look in the owners manual in the glove box.
go to anywhere batteries are sold, they have a chart
call a dealer.