20 Most Recent 2006 AMC CJ7 Questions & Answers

That's most likely transmission fluid because the diaphragm on your trans that changes the shift point, the vacuum line hooked to the carb is sucking trans fluid right into the engine and now it's fouled the plugs and won't start. Change the plugs, unhook the vacuum line to the tranny, plug the vacuum port and re-start the engine. You know now you have to replace the vacuum unit on the trans.

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When you removed the batteries, a certain procedure MUST be followed. Key switch off, switch to tow position and shift lever in reverse. You must wait until the beeper unit sound dies out then remove the wire from the most NEGATIVE cable. Place in Neutral before installing new batteries. There is a specific sequence to putting the batteries in an EZ-GO cart. Failure to follow this procedure will kill the controller. The Key switch must be off and the maintenance/tow switch MUST be in the tow position when connecting the batteries. Any of the above will cause the controller to fail, due to improper discharge of the PRE-Charge capacitors.

is this a car question ?

IT FITS A 1991 DODGE COLT

could be a bad spark plug wire

I don't know about the years Quadratrack was from 1976 to 1979 in CJ7's i'm not sure about wagoneer's i have a bunch of these units and i have rebuilt them as well. the vacuum lines are esential. there should be a vacuum control knob in the glove box. those lines go to a vacuum type accuator on the top of the transfer case, it might be a good idea to use new vacuum line here. a feed line comes off the intake manifold to supply vacuum to this system. all those lines need to work correctly for that switch. as for the handle on the floor board thats the high low switch on the reduction unit on the transfer case. this gives you 4 low . if it's not hooked up you only have 4 hi. some of these units came only with 4-hi. if you need more info you can drop me an e-mail [email protected] i would be glad to help.

If it actually runs, putting carb cleaner, into fuel tank may clean the carburetor enough to fix your problem.

are u going to pull the motor or leave it in the vehical..????? AMC ower

Change the fuel filter.

Your best bet is to remove it and dismantle the carb, pull the jets and run a piece of guitar string through them and do the same through every passage in the carburetor body. I've done this myself and it works well. I keep pieces of the small diameter guitar string on a shelf just for this purpose.

360 with hydraulic lifters, the crankshaft wit a ratchet and socket to get each valve closed. When lifter is at bottom turn the valve adjuster out to where you have free movement then turn adjuster till the rocker arm touches the lifter, then turn the adjuster in three quarters of a turn, and that valve is adjusted. No other clearance is required on hydraulic lifters. Do this with each valve in turn as each piston comes to top dead center using the firing order as a guide. When #1 piston is up to top dead center, both valves are closed. Adjust intake and exhaust at this time. Then the next in the firing order. The firing order can be found on the intake as is each cylinder marked with it's number. If it were a Chevy small block, for example only, firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I would bring # 1 cylinder up to top dead center on compression stroke by removing that spark plug and stick my finger in the hole and crank the engine till I felt my finger being pushed away with compression, then bring that piston up till the timing mark was on the "0" of the timing tab at drivers side of the harmonic balancer on the crank. Adjust both valves on #1 cylinder and then turn the crank until both valves of #8 cylinder were free moving at the rocker. Then to the next in order of fire. I would turn each adjuster out at least one full turn before starting this procedure, then adjust them in order of firing starting with #1. It isn't hard, just takes time to do it right.

Check the fuel pressure and make sure its within the specs it could be a weak fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

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when you say it is 'fouling' the plug, is it wet from oil or gas? If gas, you need to find the ignition problem (probably wires) if it is oil, those oil anit-foulers do work because they shield the plug from the oil. If you have a temp gauge, you could try going up one or two heat ranges on the plug, just monitor the gauge-a hotter plug just has a shorter insulator, the reach is the same it just doesn't transfer heat as quickly-the difference is not as radical as you might think, especially in that application.

Hi! Are you putting the correct oil sending unit? It may be too big thats why its being hit by the alternator. Just hope that you can get the original one just like the old one.