20 Most Recent 1992 Lincoln Town Car - Page 8 Questions & Answers

This is often due to a faulty wheel speed sensor or a faulty ABS relay. Try switching the ABS relay with the horn relay and seeing if the horn works. If so then you will want to test the wheel speed sensor for defects.

Park the Lincoln Town Car on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Apply the parking brake. Press the trunk release button.

2 Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels. Open the trunk and turn off the air ride button, located on the left side near the trunk hinge on the sidewall.

3 Break the lug nuts loose with the breaking bar and socket on the left front tire. Just crack them loose.

4 Lift the left front quarter of the Lincoln Town Car with the floor jack, and place a jack stand under the frame just behind the left front tire.

5 Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the left front tire.

6 Remove the caliper bolts using a ratchet and socket.

7 Pry off the caliper with the straight-edged screwdriver and secure it to the coil spring with the bungee cord.

8 Remove the pads from the caliper anchor. Pry them out with the screwdriver if you need to, but note how they are placed in the anchor so you can replace them in the exact same manner when it comes time to.

9 Remove the caliper anchor bolts. You may have to break them loose with the breaking bar and socket, but switch over to the ratchet once they're broken free to speed things up.

10 Remove the rotor. Look on the hub facing of the rotor. There may be some retainer washers that hold the rotor secure to the hub; if so, you'll need to pry them forward with the screwdriver and pull them off with channel locks or pliers. The only purpose of these retainer washers is to hold the rotor secure to the hub while reinstalling the caliper anchor and caliper. Do not worry if you ruin these or if they're not even on the rotor. You don't really need them. If the rotor does not move after you've removed the retaining washers, you may need to shock it from the hub. Do so by striking the rotor fin with a hammer with force to break it free from the rust to the hub. You may have to hit it several times; try hitting from behind more than in front, but be careful not to inflict damage to the fender or injure yourself.

11 Sand down the facing and edges of the hub with a light-grade sandpaper. Take some time and clean the hub from rust and corrosion as well as you can.

12 Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray very thoroughly. New rotors have an oil-based coating on them to prevent them from rusting due to condensation in the air. This oil coating must be cleaned off or it will create braking problems in the future. Be liberal with the brake clean on both sides of the rotor, and wipe it dry with a shop rag.

13 Replace the caliper anchor and pads. Tighten the caliper anchor bolts tightly with the ratchet and switch to the breaking bar to get another half turn out of them.

14 Squeeze the piston of the caliper in with the C-clamp all the way. Replace it over the anchor, pads and rotor. Replace and tighten the caliper bolts.

15 Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them with the ratchet and socket, then lower the Town Car and use the adjustable torque wrench set at 100 foot-pounds, but tighten the lug nuts in an alternate pattern. In other words, tighten each lug nut in the opposite position from the one tightened first until all the lug nuts are tightened to 100 foot-pounds.

16 Repeat the process for the right side.

17 Pump the food pedal when you're done to restore hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons. Failure to perform this task can result in hazardous and dangerous results. Four or five pumps or until the brake pedal feels normal should suffice. Release the hood latch and trunk latch again if you closed it before. Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and turn the air ride button back to the on position in the trunk. Remove the wheel chock.

18 Release the parking brake and test-drive.

have you checked the fuse and relay thats in fuse box for the fuel pump ! if not that. you may have a bad wire to pump.

You have to get inside door panel, push up on the center of the bottom of the window where it connects to the bar, and as you push up someone has to push the up button at the same time. If the bearings inside the motor are crushed, because they are plastic, you may have to push with both hands. Hope this helps you.

There are two heater hoses ,one heater hose runs up to the thermostat housing intake and the other hose runs to the heater core. The hard tube goes to heater core.But both the tube and hoses needs to be inspected.As per you the tube is cracked, but in many cases the hoses also gets worn out.-------------
There are actually 3 hoses at the heater core in factory configuration. The S shaped one goes to the metal pipe that runs along the intake. Theres a long L shaped one that goes to the fitting at the front corner of the intake to the thermal blower lockout(TBL), and a third from the TBL to the core. The third one comes as some large piece that you are supposed to cut a chunk out of to use. Or if you deleted the TBL, it just doesn't need to be there at all. There are 2 small hoses at the front that connect to the water pump as well. One goes to the thermostat housing, and one goes to the metal pipe under the intake. There are 2 more small ones that are frequently forgotten though. Its 1/4" fuel hose, and it goes from a nipple on the metal pipe along the intake to the throttle body, and then another from the throttle body to a small fitting at the rear corner of the lower intake. Those little ones are seldom replaced, but they can leak. Theres also a gasket under the throttle body that can leak, but usually you will see a green crust forming around the throttle body if thats leaky. ----------- Check the 2 small hoses that go to the throttle body. They have coolant through them, and are usually never thought about until one blows. The ends are both in inconvenient to access locations with the upper manifold in place.The intake manifold has to be removed.---------
IN YOUR CASE:-- Taking the intake out will give more access to the hose, so as per that, the hose and leaking part can be checked more clearly.--------- There is also one bolt for the intake manifold that is on the top that goes through the bracket. To remove intake manifold:---
drain coolant , remove and mark all vacuum lines , make a schematic to diagram your hose routing, disconnect and plug all fuel lines, remove distributor and mark location of rotor, disconnect battery, remove any necessary cables, brackets and or accesseries, remove intake mounting bolts, note length of bolts and reference location, pry up on intake , remove intake, scrape old gasket off , must be very clean to reinstall new gasket or you will cause a leak.------------ This will help. Thanks.Helpmech/.

You want to replace the air ride? I think that car would have air bags and not shocks. I have a friend that has one of those older huge Mercury Cougars and hers has air ride. The pump went bad and as I searched for new pumps I did find a site that sells a kit to replace the air bags with coil springs.

I don't know what the site was anymore but I do know they are out there so doing a web search would not be futile.

you have to find where the water is going may be a broken hose or leaking water pump can also be a blown head gasket so it is very important to investigate it first. before spending money falsely.once you know then its easier to help you begin the repairs.

There is no such thing as a Transmission Tune-Up

You should be changing trans & power steering fluids
every 3 years & never over 30,000 miles on the fluids,
on any vehicle

The fluid is changed only because it's job is to remove
heat & it breaks down in doing so. Fixes absolutely nothing

The are no adjustments
You can not even reach the band adjustment on most
cars ,because of floor pan clearance & they are set one
time, when you build or rebuild it
There isn't enough band wear to need to readjust

Transmissions are only new (1) time
When manufactured & sent to the vehicle assy plant

I think the advice you were given ,will be the end result

You could try removing & cleaning the valve body,after that
you will have to rebuild it.

yes, or dirty MAF sensor in air intake hose. Clean heated wires with spray carb cleaner. They are inside, exposed wire, about 1/2 inch long.

http://www.accessdayco.com/Auto.aspx

just punch in the specs for your car and everything you need to know will come up.

do the brake lights work? most of the time the problem is a broken wire at the brake light switch under the dash on the brake pedal. the ECM does not see the signal from the switch so it won't allow the car to shift from park.