20 Most Recent 1991 Lincoln Continental - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I'm not very familiar with these vehicles, but usually the relay box is near the battery at the hood compartment. Worst case scenario, the car has a short and the fuel pump is not receiving the adequate current to function properly. You will then need to run a test in order to find the short, if any and repair as needed.

Shown here for a 1993. https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=355263 More here https://www.google.com/search?q=1962+Lincoln+Continental+A%2FC+vacuum+diagram ..

Using your keyless entry on the keypad, press the 5 digit code to get into the door and press the 6 key immediately after. Lincoln has several codes in addition to the 5 digit keyless entry like pressing the 3 to open all the doors, the 6 for the trunk and pressing the last 2 buttons at the same time to lock the doors.

Here is what the code is, but take it to the Lincoln dealership. This is not a straightforward code and needs a pro grade scan tool computer and someone that knows how to use it. https://www.google.com/search?q=Lincoln+continental+%22P1141%22 ..

Sounds like the travel has stopped before it should and that is stopping the lock working. Check there is nothing blocking the free movement of the roof mechanism.

The headlight doors are vacuum controlled and when they develope a vacuum leak they will gradually open as the vacuum is lost.

Crankshaft sensor or cam sensor. Any codes?

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

I can't say that I have ever been in the bottom end of a 1957 Lincoln, but I would think it wouldn't be any different that other engines. The rod should have a smooth side and a oil scraper side. Make sure that the smooth side is against the rod next to it and the oil scraper goes against the counter weight throw. And the notch on the piston goes to the front of the engine.

Yes. Time to get it in the shop & have the diagnostic/fault codes read. Chances are it'll be one sensor, relay or bad connector that's doing this, but until you know where to start looking, it's a needle in a haystack. Most garages with an OBD1 computer will charge you for the diagnostic time, without making you get it repaired with them if you don't want to.

coolant sensor

Hope you had an earlier answer for this problem. The air sound could be the air suspension running after a long time of sitting inactive. As for choking, it does not quite describe how the fuel enrichment system works. The "cold start sequence" is suppose to increase the idle speed and enrichen the fuel ratio until the engine warms up. If the engine speed is low on start-up, the cold start sequence is not working. The water temperature sensor gives the cue for this system to work. Low antifreeze levels or dirty or defective temperature sensors can affect this. Some vehicles have 2 sensors with 1 operating dash gauges and the other the engine controls. A few sensors operate off of manifold heat without making contact with antifreeze. There is also the possibility of water in the fuel through condensation similar to a pop bottle sweating. Use 1 or 2 bottles of a product called "HEET" into the gas tank and start the car. You will see clouds of vapor coming from the exhaust if the water was present.

I ran into a problem like that on a ford focus , the alternator was the problem . Test or have the charging system tested . Check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's .

Don't waste your money on unnecessary sources and unwanted repairs. Get this manual online under $10-15 and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc Best Manuals

This is for 3.8L

There is a setting for the engine called a "cold start sequence". This is activated by a cold signal from the water temperature sensor. If this sensor is stuck on the HOT setting the engine will not go into the sequence. Some engines have 2 sensors with one operating the dash gauges and the other working the engine controls. Some can be changed when the engine is cold without much coolant loss others you would need to catch drainage.