20 Most Recent 1984 Lincoln Continental Questions & Answers

From others experiences...

First..if you have no fuel pumping.. yes - there is an inertia cut-off switchthat can be tripped in the trunk. It's mounted on the left side trunkhinge assembly. What your describing sounds like the gauge sender unitisn't connect properly, or incompatible, or the harnesxs is damaged.

This is copied directly from your 1994 FSM...

FUEL GAUGE DIAGNOSIS
Condition:
* CO Displayed, Top Two and Bottom Two Diagnostic Bars Displayed
Possible Source(s):
- Fuel tank sending unit.
- EIC.
- Circuitry.

Action to Take:
- Go to «Pinpoint Test BA» .
* CS Displayed, Top Two and Bottom Two Diagnostic Bars Displayed
* Inaccurate Fuel Gauge Indication

Pinpoint Tests
PINPOINT TEST BA: CO DISPLAYED, TOP TWO AND BOTTOM TWO DIAGNOSTIC BARS DISPLAYED

* BA1: CHECK FUEL PUMP WIRING AT FUEL PUMP
* BA2: CHECK FUEL PUMP
* BA3: CHECK FUEL PUMP WIRING AT EIC

PINPOINT TEST BA: CO DISPLAYED, TOP TWO AND BOTTOM TWO DIAGNOSTIC BARS DISPLAYED

BA1 CHECK FUEL PUMP WIRING AT FUEL PUMP

+ Disconnect battery ground cable.
+ Lower fuel tank to gain access to fuel pump connector.
+ Unplug fuel pump connector.
+ Jumper variable resistance terminal and ground terminal of fuel pump connector.
+ Reconnect battery (10653).
+ Turn ignition switch from OFF to RUN.
+ Check digital fuel remaining display to determine whether it shows CO or CS.

NOTE:
It may take several minutes for the fuel gauge to respond.

l Does fuel gauge display show CO?
Yes
GO to «BA3».
No
REMOVE jumper. GO to «BA2».

PINPOINT TEST BA: CO DISPLAYED, TOP TWO AND BOTTOM TWO DIAGNOSTIC BARS DISPLAYED


BA2 CHECK FUEL PUMP
+ Turn ignition switch to OFF.
+ Measure the resistance of the fuel tank sending unit at the fuel pump terminals.
+ Verify that the resistance is less than 181 ohms (normally between 11 and 168 ohms).
+ Is resistance less than 181 ohms?
Yes
INSPECT fuel pump wiring connector female terminals for flash or loose fit. SERVICE as required.

No
REPLACE fuel pump. REFER to «Section 10-01».

PINPOINT TEST BA: CO DISPLAYED, TOP TWO AND BOTTOM TWO DIAGNOSTIC BARS DISPLAYED


BA3 CHECK FUEL PUMP WIRING AT EIC
+ Disconnect battery ground cable.
+ Remove connector J1 from EIC and secure connectors from shorting.
+ Jumper variable resistance terminal and ground terminal of harness together at fuel pump.
+ Verify continuity between Pin J1-2 and Pin J1-4 ground of EIC connector.
+ Is resistance close to zero ohms?
Yes
REPLACE EIC. AFFIX odometer sticker to door pillar.

No
SERVICE fuel pump wiring for open circuit.


GENERAL INFORMATION:
Fuel Indication System
Fuel Gauge

The fuel gauge operates in the following manner:
* Fuel level is displayed on a digital bar gauge, using 14 bars from top to bottom.

* An additional two-digit display (on the message center) shows the approximate amount of fuel remaining in liters or gallons.

- For fuel levels greater than 70 liters (18 gal), the letter F (full) is displayed.
- For fuel levels less than 3 liters (1 gal), the letter E (empty) is displayed.

- Liter or gallon values are selected by the English/Metric button located at the lower RH side of the instrument cluster.
- The digital displays are based on a varying current flow from the fuel sending unit and fuel pump (9350).

- When the fuel level is low, fuel sending unit and fuel pump resistance is low.
- When the fuel level is high, fuel sending unit and fuel pump resistance is high.

The fuel pump symbol is always on except during:
* Check-out sequence - on/off/on.
* Low fuel level warning - the fuel pump (gas pump) symbol flashes when approximately one-eighth of a tank of fuel remains.

Diagnostic Bars
Diagnostic bars perform the following functions:

* When only the top and bottom two bars appear on the fuel gauge, this indicates that the resistance of the fuel tank sending unit (9275) is above or below the operating resistance range (above 168 ohms or below 11 ohms).

- Either an open or short circuit is present. (Refer to «Diagnosis and Testing» section).
- CO for circuit open or CS for circuit short will be displayed ifDigital Fuel Remaining or Distance to Empty function is selected (referto Diagnosis and Testing).

* There is a built-in delay of approximately 30 seconds from the timethe circuit open or short occurs until the diagnostic bars appear.

* This is to prevent momentary sender intermittent conditions or circuit noise from triggering the diagnostic bars.

Low Fuel Level Warning
A low fuel alert is given by a flashing fuel pump symbol when the fuel remaining is approximately one-eighth of the tank.

Fuel Sender Unit
The fuel sender unit, which is combined with the fuel pump assembly, operates in the following manner:

* The unit consists of a variable resistor controlled by the level of an attached float in the fuel tank (9002).
- When the fuel level is low, resistance in the fuel tank sending unit and pump (9H307) is low and number of lit bars is minimal (from EMPTY position).
- When the fuel level is high, the resistance in the fuel tank sending unit and pump is high and number of lit bars is greater (from EMPTY position).

NOTE:
The filter used on the fuel pump assemblies is not serviceable. Shouldit become clogged or inoperative, fuel pump must be replaced.

I hope help you with this. Good luck.

It is possible that you have a bad diaphragm in your brake booster. Does the sound of the air leak change when you hit the brakes soft or hard? Does the hiss continue for a moment after the engine stops? if yes to both then you may need a new brake booster. This component can be difficult to change out and you may want to take it to a shop for hands on diagnostics before you commit to this solution, as it is a labor intensive change over.

Have someone with AAA make a call for you that you locked keys in car, free of charge.... once in the car there is a sticker on the trunk hinge most times with the door code or glove box

have you checked the fuel pressure? There is a test port on the fuel rail (looks like a valve stem) you can use a small screwdriver to depress the valve and fuel should come out (be carefull it will be under pressure, make sure that there is no hot items close) ever if fuel does come out you may still need a pump if the pressure isn't high enough.

Check you local library should have a manual....

There are probably varnish deposits in your carb. Go to the auto parts place and see whaat the guy at the counter recommends.

try the reference section at the library in the professional chilton or motor mauals. you can make copies there to take back to shop.

Shown here for a 1993. https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=355263 More here https://www.google.com/search?q=1962+Lincoln+Continental+A%2FC+vacuum+diagram ..

Using your keyless entry on the keypad, press the 5 digit code to get into the door and press the 6 key immediately after. Lincoln has several codes in addition to the 5 digit keyless entry like pressing the 3 to open all the doors, the 6 for the trunk and pressing the last 2 buttons at the same time to lock the doors.

Here is what the code is, but take it to the Lincoln dealership. This is not a straightforward code and needs a pro grade scan tool computer and someone that knows how to use it. https://www.google.com/search?q=Lincoln+continental+%22P1141%22 ..

Sounds like the travel has stopped before it should and that is stopping the lock working. Check there is nothing blocking the free movement of the roof mechanism.

The headlight doors are vacuum controlled and when they develope a vacuum leak they will gradually open as the vacuum is lost.

Crankshaft sensor or cam sensor. Any codes?

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

I can't say that I have ever been in the bottom end of a 1957 Lincoln, but I would think it wouldn't be any different that other engines. The rod should have a smooth side and a oil scraper side. Make sure that the smooth side is against the rod next to it and the oil scraper goes against the counter weight throw. And the notch on the piston goes to the front of the engine.

Yes. Time to get it in the shop & have the diagnostic/fault codes read. Chances are it'll be one sensor, relay or bad connector that's doing this, but until you know where to start looking, it's a needle in a haystack. Most garages with an OBD1 computer will charge you for the diagnostic time, without making you get it repaired with them if you don't want to.

coolant sensor