1988 Jaguar Xj Series - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

does the spark go at same as injector pulse? let me now and i will try to help worked on these cars from day one

The XJ 40 DOES NOT have a compliance plate as it is the first year they were owned by a American company Ford. The XJ 40 better known as the XJ 6 was fords experimenl change over. This went on from 1988 to 1994 and with every year you will find different things they changed that were problems with the preceding year . like the 88 & 89 had digital dash boards that failed a lot to hard wiring breaking so on 90 they changed that as well as a engine upgrade

have you tried cleaning the inlet jets with a fuel additive

Check Codes, The system likely stored them if there was a failure.

To make sure I understand, you've replaced the coil and disconnected the small ground wire plugged into the terminal at the base of the coil to make sure it's not a kill switch or shorted ground wire problem. Still no spark.

Next step it to dangle a screwdriver from your fingertips near the flywheel magnets. It should draw the screwdriver from about a 1/2" away. Finally, take the coil off and clean the connection points where the coil and engine meet with a bit of sandpaper, both the coil and the engine. If these steps don't solve the problem, you have a bad ignition module that will need to be replaced. Sometimes even new ones are bad. Doesn't happen often, but it happens.


If the magnets are good, it's gapped even reasonably close, the small ground wire from the base is disconnected, you've not got rust or corrosion between the coil and the mounting posts, and you've tried at least two new spark plugs (sometimes even new ones are bad), then you have another bad coil. They are self-contained and the only requirement it to have a magnetic field rotating past it at least 700 rpms (a good average yank on the rope is sufficient).


Keep us updated.

HI there the first then you need to check is battery cables make
shore the are tight.
next if you can get under the car check cables and wires going to starter .
next check and see if the starter bolts are not lose .if everything is good
your going to have too replace starter . OK

good luck

Sounds like there may be more than one problem but we'll work on the non-start first. When you turn the key to the start position there will be two simultaneous clicks. One from under the hood will be the starter relay located on the right side rail/ drip rail of the engine bay under a black plastic cover with screws. The other click will be from the starter solonoid mounted on the starter motor. if you only hear the click from the relay then either power is not reaching the solonoid, or it is, and the solonoid is bad. if you hear both clicks ( probably you will need an assistant for this ) and no start then the starter motor itself is bad. Hope this helps.

well you need to check to see if it is charging if you get car started put a metre on battery see are you getting a charge if not i would go for the alternator

Greetings dgk2:
That left caliper will need to be replaced. But first check your brake fluid level in the master cylinder add more if necessary and don't overfill. Next bleed the brakes to make sure there is no air in the brake line. If problem persist then replace the caliper. Good Luck

the linkage is just a slight bit off, it parks between gears when you shift into the slots. Disassemble the shifter from the center console, and slowly move just the cable its self between the positions and see if you have forword gears. When you find and sync the gears, then tighten the cable to the shifter so the positions match the notches in the shifter.

you have to take it to the dealer you cant do it your self

the tensoner will automaticly adjust the belt tenson when you release it to check it with belt on look across pullys and maske sure the tensioner pully is aligned with the rest of the pullys remove the belt spin the pully by hand it shouldnt make any noise and it shuold feel smooth with no binding in it

U must clean all that belt dressing off (use a product called Brake Clean) and then replace the belt, also make sure none of the pulleys have bad bearings and the automatic belt tensioner is working right, this will correct your noise. Belt dressing is NEVER to be used on serpintine belts like the one used in your truck.

If the drive belt is tight, then your alternator is bad and must be replaced.

For a vehicle that age, try some Oil Seal Rejuvenator.

Bar's Leaks 1040 Grey Rear Main Seal Repair Concentrate

https://www.amazon.ca > Bars-Leaks-1040-Repair-Conc... Bar's Leaks 1040 Grey Rear Main Seal Repair Concentrate - 16.9 oz. in Additives. ... Will Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair work on other oil leaks?

no pulse for the injectors check wiring run the fault codes check the ECM unit

try the engine coolant temperature sensor for the engine managment system i think it is situated in the thermostat housing.

Really silly questions now!

If it is an auto box! have you got in any gear other than Park??
Have you checked the immobiliser????
Crank angle sensor is ok?????

I've experienced problems with Jag's in the past! this sounds crazy but check that the coolant temp sender is not worn out and shorting on the bonnet liner! sounds crazy but this has hapened before! shorted out the entire ignition system!

If you cant find the altenator try the starter-motor and connect the earth to any part of the engine that makes sense (not plastic).

No one ever asks that questionOf coarse there are all kinds of oilsthat don't belong in your vehicle & coulddo harm over time,I think you knew thatwhen you asked the questionI would say 5W-30 would be a good guessYou should really ask a dealer what theyrecommend.We are 30 years removed from 1983 & the oil technology of that era