Top 20 Hyundai Motor 1999 Elantra - Page 4 Questions & Answers

check 10 amp ECM fuse. Your alternator voltage is regulated by the ECM. If the fuse is good, consider replacing the ECM.

figure out if it has fuel or fire missing

fuel filter

go to the libary they have manauls or If you want to buy one go to your auto parts store

If the battery light is on, your charging system is not working. This may have also caused the brake light to come one. Recommend you replace the alternator and see if that doesn't extinguish both lights. If not, please get back to me.

Well if you have any kind of mechanical background this is usually a simple fix.

Start by jacking up the car, and securing it with a jack stand. Next remove the tire. (I usually use it as a seat, this will save on your back and knees) ;)

OK now you must remove the caliper and front pads. It's pretty easy, usually just a couple bolts on the back of the assembly to remove the caliper and the pads should either come with it or be removable by hand once its out of the way.

Now remove the caliper bracket, once again just a couple bolts on the back usually secure this.

Once that's off the rotor should slide off with ease.

Now you have your bearing exposed, and your almost done.

To remove it, you must first remove the axle nut. This is in the center of the hub assembly. So take a pliers and remove the cotter pin and cap covering the nut. Once they are removed use an appropriate size socket to remove it. You may have to tap on the ratchet with a hammer if the axle turns as you try to turn the nut.

After the axle nut is removed, its usually only 3, but sometime 4 bolts that hold the hub to the car. In some makes and models they are mounted to the front and others they are on the back. A quick inspection of the area should answer that relatively quick. Remove those bolts and use a chisel to give the unit a couple good whacks along the seem and it should fall right off into your hands.

That's about it, it's a relatively quick and easy process, but as I've learned from experience, other factors can prove to be trouble, so if you need further assistance, please feel free to come back for more help.

Please feel free to give me feedback and rate my assistance, I wish you the best and as always, thanks for using FixYa

This is usually caused from a poor ground connection. Disconnect the light bulb from the socket and inspect the connection for corrosion or physical damage. You can also try wiggling the connection and wiring with the lights on while observing to see if the brightness of the lamp increases. If while wiggling the wires or connection the light gets brighter you'll have to try and find what is causing the high resistance in the ground side of the circuit.

1.Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal

2.Drain the cooling system.If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition,save it and reuse

3.Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the thermostat housing

4.Loosen the hose clamp then detach the hose from the fitting.If its stuck,grasp it near the end with a pair of large adjustable pliers and twist it to break the seal,then pull it off.If the hose is old or deteriorated,cut it off and install a new one

5.Inspect the condition of the outer surface of the thermostat cover inlet that mates with the hose.If its corroded or pitted,replace the thermostat housing cover

6.Remove the thermostat housing cover bolts and then remove the cover.If the cover is stuck,tap it with a soft-face hammer to jar it loose.Be prepared for some coolant to spill as the gasket seal is broken

7.Note how the thermostat is installed (which end is facing out)and then remove it

8.stuff a rag into the thermostat housing,and then remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from housing and cover with a gasket scraper.Remove the rag from thermostat housing and then clean the gasket mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone

9.Install the new thermostat in the housing.Make sure that correct end faces out.The spring end is normally directed into the engine and that the bleed hole is at the top

10.Apply a thin ,uniform layer of RTV sealant to both sides of new gasket and position it on the housing.

retaining clips.......

first find out if your wiper motor works. if it does everthing from that point is all mechanical. sometime the connecting posts from the wiper motor to the wiper arm get loose, or your wiper arms are stripped out

First, disconnect the battery. Then pull wiring harness of the altenator. Find a rope or a clamp to put on the belt so it doesn't fall all the way off, otherwise it is hard to remember how the belt is routed through the pulleys,
Then remove the bottom bolt first, the slightly move the altenator so you can pull the belt off. Then remove the other bolt to remove it completely.

If you have a tensioner pulley, it is a pulley that has rubber on the other side of it so you can move it up or down with a large wrench or breaker bar, When you move it, it relieves the pressure off the belt so you can easily put it on and off the altenator. The tensioner pulley is bolted on to a metal frame usually. You just put the large wrench or breaker-bar and socket on it, and either push down real hard or pull up hard to move the tensioner pulley so you can put the belt on or off the altenator.

LET ME TRANSULATE

either water pump impeller is loose on the drive shaft or the old favourite ---head gasket

The rear tail light switch in the circuit. Remove the switch from its connect and bypass the the terminals on the connector with jumper wires and see what happens. If when you by pass the switch the tail and brake lights work you found the culprit.

if u r not an expert dont even think of changing the timeing belt :S
its for ur engine saftey

front seal near timing sprocket may be compromised. real simple to fix and the seal itself is dirt cheap but it will require some getting dirty.

Idle Air Control Valve (clean it out with carb cleaner). Or Spark Plug Wires. Ignition Coil. Heat may be breaking a connection in ignition system/wires. Hence, the cool down period.

I would check in the above order. You should get a scan tool to make sure MAF/TP sensor are giving good readings as well. This will affect your idle. The MAF/TP could be telling the engine to dump in too much gas at idle.

There are many possibilities...but first reset your CPU by removing the negative terminal from the battery. Wait a minute or so, thern re-fit it. If this doesn't improve the problem, get back here and we can go from there.

depends whats wrong with them

ON before ignition
OFF after ignition
ON again when the speed is constant on 3rd gear and above
OFF if you changed the speed