20 Most Recent Hyundai Motor 1999 Elantra - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Check your fuse's. ECU inparticular. It will be a 20A fuse. I had a problem where the O2 sensor harness was creating a short & blowing the fuse. Finally figured out it was the harness that had worn down because it was laying on the axle. Repair the harness, new fuse & your in business. whatever you do K.I.S.S. Keep it super simple & it wont fail!

first try replacing the battery in the remote. if that does not work you will probally have to bring to dealer to have alarm either bypassed or replaced.

pay someone, its the worst pain in the **** I have ever had, I GAVE mine away after it slipped for the third time (because the crankshaft was warped which means the engine is almost done living.)

It took me 6 hours the first time, took my mechanic 4, and he swore at me about it.

If you are insistent, let me know and I wil dig out my information on doin so.

it is fuel injected has a throttle body you do not have any adjustment except timming but the throttlebody is at the end of the air intake hose

you may have a bur on one of the pullies or it is ridding wrong and rubbing something

You need to have someone hook up a scan tool to access the code(s) to determine what the problem(s) is/are. There is really no other way to solve this problem properly.

hydraulic

have you recently had your injectors cleaned ???
if yes reset the computer by disconecting the batterie
if not then may be it's time
hell i could guess all day
best bet buy an obd2 car scaner and check your codes
once you have the codes you have the problem
code reader is a good investment for now and the future

I suggest you check the fuel supply, hoses, filter, spark plugs, air filter and possibly injectors too if it is a direct injection engine. You can also get the crank sensor (TDC) checked but I would leave this as a last resort.

Under the front slam pannel, that's where the wipers are, are two long bars with control arms on either end. Grease these as fully as you can, start the engine, pump the brakes a few times to release should release the front braking problem. If there are problems with actually getting to the joints get a spray can of copper ease, and blast all them with it. better.Bu Grease is

The starter motor has a fault thats causing a elecrical short.Replace the starter and all the wires that have cooked.Hope that was helpfull.Good luck

dear friend-your pollen filters is behind the glove compartment easy to remove

dear friend-seeing that i have no fax no for you i will try and explain the best i can.you got 6 pulleys 2 top 2 middle and 2 bottom.the belt runs out side on top in side in middel outside at bottom.hope this will help.send fax no for diagram.

you might need to get a prybar or something such long, and try to pry it off the belt, it should go easy right away. It is a spring-inside assembly, and won't brake. There also could be a 3/4 hole in it, look from a side. It's for middle size ratched, it can be used to loosen the tensioner from serp. belt.

check timming belt it has jumped a notch

Electrical circuit/wiring problem. Go to http://www.hmaservice.com/ and register (vehicle by VIN). Afterward, you'll have access to technical information (manuals, wiring diagrams, service bulletins, etc) about your vehicle.

thermostat and the fan blowing on the radiator should be you next "CHECKING OF THINGS"

Usally the motor is under the bonnet and the arms are in the front air intake in front of the windshild. Sedans are difficult to get out and need to be timed when replaced. I hope this helps.

It sounds like you've broken the exaust sensor that near the mainfold.

best to put it on the diagnostics, it could be the auto chock that kicks in it just thinks the engine is cold,