20 Most Recent 1999 Hyundai Accent - Page 7 Questions & Answers

transmission...could be sensor problem of internal transmission problem.My suggestion is take it to a mechanic....good luck and hope this info helps.....Please rate my post.

1.5 litre

Ok guys check this out.I ran out of petrol(ok I am a girl!) and the yellow engine light stayed on afterwards.Hyundai said I would have to sell my soul to get it sorted but would be ok to run I t failed it's Mot on emission,but the local garage managed to temporarily fix the problem to get it through.The light came back on after wards-!!! So I did some research on Internet and here's how to reset it yourself-- Take off positive lead from battery,then turn ignition key on to get rid of any stored power.Then pump the footbrake(yeah I wondered why!) for about 20 secs.You will hear allsorts of clicking in the engine as ecu resets.Then reconnect battery lead!! Wallah !!!!
I went armed with this knowledge to the local garage(much to their amusement) and asked if they could reset the ecu,and they said a dealer would have to do it.I said well I know how and asked them to disconnect battery for me(their frowns got deeper by the minute).The rest I did in front of them,They were gobsmacked!!!!
They were amazed and asked me to call in a few days to tell them if it had worked permanent as they had learned something----so far so good!!!!
I f you have a computorised radio make sure you know the reset code for that as it may knock it off.
The ecu resets when you drive away.Now drives like a dream.

Failed automatic transmission most likely.

This sounds like a battery or alternator problem.Lets start with the battery, just because the car starts in the morning does not mean the battery is good, A bad battery will start the car and as car is running and drawing power out of the battery the battery which is getting charged back up from the alternator but if battery is bad and not accepting the charge this will do a few things.First it will cause damage to the alternator because , the alternator will try to charge the battery with no result and so it keeps charging at high rates and heats up and causes damage to itself , the next thing is battery loses voltage slowly until it does not have enough voltage to keep engine going , inturn engine stalls out,I would start by first having the battery tested by a shop with a battery tester, the next thing is the alternator , have that tested.Your problem will be a bad alternator or battery. good day.

Well, it's something any everyday do it yourselfer would take on. ( What portion of the 99% are we?) The important thing is to stop the leak. It is the reason you are grinding gears (cringe!), and could quickly lead to expensive damage. Clutch (or brake) fluid is a hydraulic fluid, which works under pressure. A leak lowers pressure and reduces the effectiveness of your clutch. So to avoid the cost of a new or rebuilt transmission, stop the leak!You need a few tools, of course....honestly, let a mechanic review your work after you fix the leak, because likely the clutch system will need to be bled down at the transmission to restore it to full efficiency.

Check your spark plug wires check if there in properly on. Another problem when a car idle check for any small vacuum or air leak from a hose.

We have no info on non US models and makes.

Do you mean that stays to the floor because the clutch peddle has to reach the floor. If that is what you mean then probably you need a knew clutch or if it is hydraulic maybe it reflling and dicomression.

you need a new throw out bearing there is no way to oil or lube then they generally are a sealed bearing and last the life of the clutch unless the operator of the vehicle has a heavy foot and rides the clutch

Hello! There is a fuse that supplies power to the Drivers door Lock/unlock Relay...I do not know from your question if the door locks and unlocks properly...That is 20 A fusible link C in the under hood box...Blue in color...Also there is the ignition key interlock solenoid switch fuse #4 (15 A) in dash fuse box...If all fuses are good and the doors lock/unlock properly I would suspect a defective ignition switch; Yellow/black wire that supplies (12 volts hot at all times to the alarm system) splice has gone open...guru...saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867