20 Most Recent 1991 Hyundai Excel 4 Door - Page 9 Questions & Answers

You will need to relace the entire turn signal switch. This is actually called a combination switch. Not had that exact problem with that particular vehicle, have had similar problems with other vehicles.

currently have one or both converters nearly plugged on my 47,000 mile '93 Taurus. I know this is the case because of the symptoms: if I 'punch it', the car stumbles and chokes before finally catching on and taking off. It dies at intersections, especially when it's not fully warmed up yet. An often too-rich fuel mixture is to blame. The real question is why it's doing this. The car doesn't have too many miles, but has sat unused for much of its existence. The years have been unkind to something under the hood! The kicker is that it always restarts right away, though it may on occasion stall again.
I checked with a muffler shop and they told me the convertor will lose it's potential to operate correctly if degraded fuel is used. Two reasons will get you bad fuel. From sitting without driving for many weeks or just bad luck at the gas station. when the tanks at the gas station get very low you can get a mixture of water with the fuel causing to ruin the convertor. Just bad luck to some of us. Now I run my car every day for 15 minutes no matter what for the past 3 years with a new convertor and have no more problems with the stalling

try under the hood.

follow the fuel line from the fuel tank. It should be underneath the car a few feet front of the tank

Add brake fluid to the reservoir and try pumping the pedal by hand it may get stuck to the floor, then look for any leaks in the line to the tranny, if it is stuck up try starting it in gear and shut it off immediately! Cuz it will try and take off be sure to block the wheels and set the brake, this may help free the slave cylinder from the shaft please rate

If your engine is both noisy and overheats quickly, then I would suspect either a blown head gasket or a cracked block. So you need to check for coolant on the oil dipstick or oil in the coolant which are common for those.

The poor performance of the car makes these faults to come up and undermine the working of the engine. A full check up on the fuel and firing will confirm the fault on the car engine.

please check these tips:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5843031-tips_check_car_not_start

To check the performance of the car you can start by checking from the fuel tank. Check if the fuel contains impurities and specially water. If so this can come up with the pumping when the tank gets empty and produce misfiring, splutter and jerks. So a check on the fuel filter will confirm this as it will be seen, if so remove and clean tank and change the filter. We then come to the fuel pump/carburetor as the fuel mixing and pressure is determined in this section. You need to have the pump calibrated if the pressure at the injector is low.

Then we must check with the electrics. The spark intensity is most important .Remove all plugs to check gap and condition of plugs. The black plug indication will confirm that the performance is bad whereas a fully fired plug without deposits must be the ideal view. Check the HT coil and the HT wires, if the intensity is bad this must be swapped and checked to confirm. DO NOT CHANGE any part without a confirmation by trying with a replacement from another vehicle or friend. Finally the LT trigger to the coils must be checked be it from the platinum points or an electronic ignition unit. The voltage of the trigger must be high to give the best HT output.

Now use a strobe to check the Timing on the engine. Adjust if needed to see the TOP DEAD CENTER-TDC- mark. If there is valve noise make sure that the tappets are set properly so that the valves seat firmly for the best compression. Also check compression of engine if there is imbalance on the engine or reduced power.

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????


15

Hi

Remove the plastic surround around the inside door handle (if there's a screw in it, unscrew it then remove, if not just wedge a flat head screw driver behind it and pop out). Then there may be some screws in the door trim along the bottom, if not then it just uses the plastic clips. Pry the top of the door trim out and you will feel/hear the clips unclipping. Pull the door trim off.

To remove the internal panel follow these steps. 1. Remove the grey internal door lock knob, by screwing it out. 2. Remove the 5 screws in the door. Two screws hold the arm rest in, two screws hold the plastic front of the interior door panel to the metal body of the door. One screw holds the interior door handle in place. 3. The plastic door handle is stuck on to the metal door mechanism by a white piece of shaped plastic, use a set of needle nose pliers to squeeze the plastic together and slip the handle off. 4. The winder is tricky, it is held to the door by a circular clip (shaped like a C but with the ends bent in the opposite direction), common on many cars. Make a small loop with a peice of metal wire, loop it over one end, hold the other end with a screwdriver, and then pull it off.

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