20 Most Recent 1986 Hyundai Excel Questions & Answers

Try changing the fuel filter. You may want to consider a Weber carburetor conversion. That Asian carb is old

stick a stiff wire down in there to loosen the dirt then blow it out with compressed air and a blow gun-cheers Denny

If you check to make sure your headlight switch connector is plugged in correctly and all other connections are made then the head light switch ( high beam portion) internal connections aren't making a good enough contact or are broken. In this case replace switch.

Could be. It would need to be taking into a garage either way unless you are able to make the repairs yourself.

This is what we call in the trade a tracking problem ( when the spark jumps prematurely to earth rather than across the spark plug electrodes ) The problem is caused by deteriorating spark plugs or poor insulation on the HT leads . If you replace your HT leads and spark plugs your problem will be cured .

You definitely need to replace those plugs and take it from there.
Good luck!

the only way to access this is to remove the ashtray, remove the entire surround, so you can access the wiring behind.

faulty plug wire only conducting at high revs,when its running rough try removing each plug wire individually and if it runs the same when you remove a certain wire then thats the faulty one,your timing could be off if that doesnt work,when you pull the wire wear a rubber glove or shut off car each time or you will get a shocking surprise

Before changing the real wheel bearings, you should thoroughly inspect your rear brakes. You would disassemble the back brakes anyway to change the bearings, and changing the brakes is easier. Remember to block the wheels up front, yes - safety first. As you pull off the rear drums, if you have to struggle to get them off, then that is a definite sign of wear and you'll need to do a rear brake job. As rear drum brakes are used, they have an auto adjust screw that tests and resets your brakes to ensure they are at proper distance to the drum surface. As brake shoes wear into the drums, they can create a groove or lip on the inside of the drum that the brakes will get caught upon when you try to remove worn brake drums. There should be a little hole on the interior side of the brake drum assembly and where you can fit a brake adjustment tool into. After you get the tool in there, it will touch against a star shaped wheel which is actually an adjusting nut. If you have a very small phillips screwdriver, place it inside this same hole and push the little arm that is touching this little star shaped nut. Everytime you back up and hit the brakes, this automatic adjustment lever pushes down on the little star shaped nut making sure that the brakes are not loose (keeps them snug). After you have this lever pushed away from the star shaped nut, use the brake tool to begin turning the star shaped nut until you have moved the screw back together, and the brake shoes have moved back towards each other, and you should then be able to easilly slide the brake drum off.

Once you get the rear drums off, you should try to turn the rear hub on each side and listen for noise and the feel of metal grinding (it should turn freely and smoothly). If the brake pads and drums are in good shape (plenty of brake padding left and no signs of metal wear upon the drums) AND you can feel and or hear the grinding as you turn the wheel hub assembly, then proceed with continuing to replace the rear wheel bearings. However, the more likely scenario is that you need a rear brake job, and doing a brake job is still easier than continuing to tear your brakes apart to replace the hub bearings.

You can check out a copy of Chilton's Auto Repair Manual Hyundai Excel 1986 - 1993 from your local public library. You can also buy this manual on the internet by using your favorite search engine (yahoo, google, etc) to locate a book seller.

Here Im reading 1996 & 1986.If its a 96, probably Hyandai.Hyandai wasnt around in 86,were they?

"Loss in power" usually means that the combustion chamber in your cars engine is full of carbon. That is left behind because of the unburned fuel. With that type of problem, fuel responses will be slower, poor acceleration, lower rpm, etc. You may overhaul your engine for them to clean the carbon manually, but it'll be expensive and could lead to "loose compression". That means the engine won't be as powerful or responsive as before.

The best way would be to have a carbon ridding solution injected into the engine. The solution will liquify the carbon and other build-ups, which would then restore the "power" of your car. You'll get better acceleration, higher rpm and top speed, etc. have a mechanic do it for you. It's alot cheaper and faster than having the engined overhauled.

John

check other fuses

A badly worn clutch, misadjusted clutch can cause that.

look under the rear seat. there might be a plate to get to it.

I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manu als

Check your engine oil cap and see if the inside of it has yellowish gooey & slimey build up in it. If so you coolant is leaking in to your engine oil

Sounds like the fuel pump is failing. I would check the fuel pressure to make sure it is within specs, call dealer or parts supplier for specifically for your vehicle, for example some vehicles require 45-56 psi. If it falls below threshold, the pump is faulty and needs to be replaced. I hope this helps you get going :o) Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)