20 Most Recent 2005 Hyundai Accent - Page 7 Questions & Answers

check the emissions controls for leaks then check transmission levels also..repost findings..

Sounds like a worn ball joint, or a worn top strut mount. They have bearings in them and are known to go. To check the ball joint, jack car up only 3inches. While you look underneath have someone pry the front wheel up and down with a steel bar or something like that. Make sure you use blocks or jack stands for sure!!. The ball joint is at the bottom, and one at the top. Look close for any movement. In the air this should be noticable if it's bad. . Also get someone to grab the tire and wiggle it every which way. The best way to check the top strut mount is to look under the hood, you will see where your struts are bolted on. One big nut in the center, and three or four nuts around the outside. While car is on the ground look at this area while someone turns the steering wheel. if this is getting bad, you should hear it, or see too much movement. Not easy to tell sometimes unless you take the whole strut off, but these cars are known for this problem Keep me informed and if you see the problem feel free to ask questions. I can walk you through it. Please rate this solution

Sounds like a blockage in the exhaust system. A quick fix at a local garage

Is the coolant level full? What does the temp gauge read on the dash? Can you hear a difference in air flow out the vents if you switch from full hot to full cold? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

So you checked the coolant degas bottle & youhave the proper level?

ok check your fuel pump relay or you have a bad connection on wireing to fuel pump need more help let me know ok

Okay, I think that should be Post Catalyst which would indicate the O2 sensor after the cat is sensing a lean condition. In other words there is excess oxygen being detected by the sensor after the catalytic converter. O2 sensor, cat, or possibly an exhaust system leak.

Here's what the shop manual states:

30 Nm (300 kg.cm, 22 lb.ft)+90°+Release all bolts + 30 Nm(300kg.cm, 22 lb.ft)+90° In this instance you don't have a 'Torque to Spec"... you have a "torque to YIELD' In this specification, initially torque the head bolts to 22 lb ft... then turn each and additional 90°, then loosen each and REDO to the same specification = 22 lb.ft)+90° (you're actually crushing the head gasket TWICE and stretching the head bolts TWICE.

One way to find out would be to raise one rear wheel and see if you can turn it. If you can't the brake is locked on.