20 Most Recent 1992 Saturn SL2 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

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OK I don't know if this is your problem but my 92 sl2 is kinda the same way. my sl2s ECTS went out and it dose the same this is what it looks like you will have to remove the air duct to get to it and this is were it's located keep in mind there are two of them you want to unplug the one with two wires it is lower on the block. but do not remove it.

after unpluging it try starting your car if it starts them you will have to get a new ECTS Coolant Temp Sensor. btw don't drive around with it unpluged just becouse it runs dosen't mean you should use it like that.

P0340/P0341 Troubleshooting S-Series Saturn...
Most of this came from TSB 98-T-49A

Both P0340 and P0341 both relate to the Camshaft Position Sensor, the only problem is that the S-Series engines don't have a Cam sensor, not a typical one at least. instead, the DIS module watches when the #4 spark plug fires on the compression cycle and fakes a Cam sensor signal from it. the tricky part is that on a DIS waste spark system, spark plugs fire with their mated cylinders(1/4 and 2/3 in 4 cylinder engines) every time the cylinder is at TDC, regardless of weather the cylinder is on exhaust or compression. However, it takes far more voltage to fire a spark plug on the compression stroke then on the exhaust stroke, due to the compressed air(more air molacules, more air the spark needs to jump, more resistance to spark). The increased voltage needed on the compression stroke is detected by the "#4 sensing circuit" inside the DIS module for the Cam sensor signal. if the resistance of the secondary system is not in the proper range or something else is affecting the voltage draw, the "#4 sensing circuit" will be unable to work properly.

In short, anything worng with the ignition system, bad Cam sensor signal.

Next for the diagnositic:

Step 1: remove secondary wires from spark plugs, keep the wires on the coil. measure resistance from #1 wire to #4 wire and then #2 wire to #3 wire. resistance should be 11k ohms to 45k ohms (that seems like a wide range to me) but it's in TSB.
If resistance is in specs, go to step 2, if not in specs, go to step 3

Step 2: remove secondary wires from the coil packs. check for corrosion on the towers and wires.

If there is corrosion, go to step 4

If not, go to step 5


Step 3: remove secondary wires from the coil packs. check for corrosion on the towers and wires.

If there is corrosion, go to step 4

If not, go to step 6


Step 4: Replace or clean coils and/or wires as nessaciry. Retest to confirm.


Step 5: Remove spark plugs. Check for carbon or abnormal wear and proper gap(0.040 in)

If plugs check out good, go to step 8.

if the plugs are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm.


Step 6: Measure resistance of individual secondary wires. specs are 1.5k ohms to 15k ohms ( thats what this chart says, but my knowage says 8k ohms is normal, greater then 12k ohms should be replaced)

If wires are in spec, go to step 7

If wires are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm


Step 7: Measure resistance from tower to tower on the coil packs (hold tight for good reading). Spec is 8K to 15K.

If coils are in spec, go back up to step 5

If coils are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm


Step 8:(90% of the time i bet the problem is solved by now) Start engine. Perform underhood visual inspection of the ignition system, check for arcing(best done in a dark area, if you are inside a garage, besure the exhaust is vented). Wet DIS module, coils, and secondary wires with salt water to provide optional ground path.(arcing from the wire boot to the valve cover is possible, but would be hidden)

If arcing is present, replace wires or coils as needed and retest to confirm.

If not, go to step 9.


Step 9: Turn ignition off, backprobe J3D03 (Circuit 633, brn/wht wire) at PCM with voltmeter. connect other lead to ground. Turn ignition on, engine off. Measure voltage.

less then 4.5 volts, go to step 10
4.5-5.5 volts, go to step 12
more then 5.5 volts, go to step 11


Step 10. Check connections in circult 633, repair short to ground, retest to confirm


Step 11. Repair short to voltage in circuit 633, retest to confirm.


Step 12. Start engine, at idle observe voltmeter

less then 2.0 volts, replace DIS module, retest to confirm
2.0 - 4.0 volts, problem intermittent
4.0 - 5.5 volts, go to step 13
more then 5.5 volts, go back up to step 11


Step 13. Turn ignition off, backprobe circuit 633 at DIS module with voltmeter, other lead to ground. check voltage.

4.0 volts or less, repair open/high resistance in circuit 633, retest to confirm.
greater then 4.0 volts, go to step 14


Step 14: Inspect terminal on DIS module for looseness or poor connection.

If terminal is bad, repair it
If terminal is good, replace the DIS module.



thats all of the diagnoistic chart--- I would like to add three things:

1. Check the grounding bolt on the DIS module for corrosion.
2. besure the secondary wires are fully seated, you should feel/hear a click
3. use dielectric grease on the coil towers

The thermostat is normally located in the aluminium elbow that the top radiator hose connects to. The elbow is usually held down by two bolts and it is only necessary to remove these to replace the thermostat. It may not be necessary to remove any hoses. Take care that the new thermostat is correctly located in its recess and the old gasketing has been completely removed and that the new gasket has a smear of gasket cement on it. While tightening the bolts, make sure that the elbow is seating evenly and not catching on the edge of the thermostat or you could crack the elbow.

NO, not even close.

Its sounds like the timings not at its correct setting. You really need to get a mechanic to set the timing correctly this is not a major job.

This may just be a problem with the wiring of the car's ECU. It could be a loose wiring. The ECU may be receiving power intermittently. It could also be just an issue with the EFI relay. The ECU signal from the EFI is intermittent causing the flickering and the clicking sound.

that means your rings, valves, or head gasket are going bad beyond the normal aging of all the cylinders. the number 3 was the first to go on my 91 DOHC too. the car is nearly 20, and that stuff happens with age and use. I would look around for a low mileage DOHC Saturn engine from a 94 SC2 or SL2. the engine is so old that to fix it you will have to rebuild it which will cost far more than the 500 dollars the whole car is worth. the same engine was in them from 92-94, possibly even a 95. make darn sure you find a DOHC engine and not the SOHC, they look almost the same but they are not interchangeable unless you change the transmission, the exhaust, all the wheels, and the speedometer.

Check the fuse panel cover for the fuse number for that.

Any type of shop repair is going to cost more than the value of the car. So it is either the instrumment cluster or the sender. You can buy a new sender at a parts store and put it in yourself, if that fixes it you are good to go. If not then you are going to be looking for a used cluster, and the problem is that the newest cluster to fit your car is still a 1994. To put an 18 year old cluster in there you are taking a risk that it will not work either as it will be pulled from a nonfunctional car sitting in a junkyard. You can find many for sale on eBay. Good Luck

http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/dtc/26.html This link provides a very good explanation and diagnostic process

Okay, go to your dealer, go to your local auto parts , go to a fix it garage ! What are you asking?

no, the plug wires snap onto the plugs which are in deep recesses in the valve cover on the DOHC, which is the SL2. On this old car you may just want to replace the plug wires at the same time unless you are sure they are less than 5 years old. get some good wires, not generics, that are made for the car.

CO --is a rich condition


Need a clean air filter
Good Spark plugs
Clean oil,preferably synthetic
O2 Sensors that work correctly
PCV that works well
No vacuum leaks

I DID NOT SAY throw parts at it

I offered ideas on a rich condition

Can you give more detail and what happenes exactely ?

find one on ebay or at a junkyard, most likely same door 91-95 will match up.
buy yourself some new hinges at getsaturnparts.net
i would pay a body shop some bucks to hang it, makes it much easier if you have one of those
special door hanging jacks.
replace the window regulator if the one in there does not look new

All saturns 91-99 had the same engine block. The starter is on the back of the engine underneath the intake manifold. It is a pain in the a** to get at and replace, do yourself a favor and let someone with a lift and real tools do it for you.