1998 Land Rover Range Rover - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Test all the fuses with a test light. One fuse powers both of those circuits.

Sounds like something is overheating then and possibly a sensor. Not familiar with Rovers but might be a problem with the CAS and/or CPS which tells the ECU the motor is running and when to fire. Also maybe the IAC is bad and when you go from throttle to idle it can't control it and allows it to die.

There are several possibilities. You need to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical. Can you move the door lock lever manually? If that does not work the problem is probably the mechanism and it will mean removing the door trim to get at the various linkages - there are several - see image. It does not happen often but the ends of the connecting wires can slip out of their housings. Also the plastic ring on the keylock can break. The other option is an electrical fault like a broken wire in the loom running through the door frame. You will need to find both ends of each wire and test for continuity with a multi-meter. One of mine was broken right in the middle. If that is the cause, it is easiest to run a new wire to replace the broken one - not an easy job but it can be done with patience.

Ticking and goes away? exhaust manifold leak. Most times a bolt broke. You can find it. Look for black spots around the exhaust and engine.

may need a fuel pump

THE SOLENOIDS MAKE A BUZZING NOISE WHEN THERE IS AN OBSTRUCTION.

Could be several things but the most likely is a stretched drive chain inside the transfer case - not a job for an amateur. To change just the chain inside the box is a pig of a job, but getting the case out and back is a 5-6 hour job and requires a hoist and hydraulic engine/gearbox lifter

The widows work of one circuit breaker( Silver in color and about 1 inch X 1/4 inch). Rare for them to bad, but they do. Swap it with another if you have one. Or pull it and put a fuse in the slot. If they work replace the breaker. The fuse won't last long. After that is wire chasing.

Make sure your transfer case lever is in 'drive' mode.

The HSE designation refers to a Sport Edition 'Rover, not a higher-priced premium edition.
Changing fuel grades can harm an engine that doesn't have computer controlled valve timing.
Symptoms include a pronounced, fast "knock" (usually when you go from 93 to 87 octane) and using a fuel with a higher octane rating than the vehicle requires (example: 93 versus 87) sends unburned fuel into the emissions system and catalytic converter. This puts stress on the emissions system. For some vehicles, a rotten egg smell or a pop when the fuel burns off in the catalytic converter coming from the tailpipe signals use of higher than needed octane gas.
More info on your problems here, as well as useful links:

http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.htm

HOPE THIS HELPS! Don't forget to rate!

The most likely cause is your battery being close to failure. I strongly advise that you do not change it yourself or get the local grease monkey to do so because if the ECU trips out it will need to be reset - without that you will be stranded. There are some more horrible possibilities and again do nOT experiment - let a RR expert check it out

did you hit a big bump when it stopped? you may have a fuel emergency shut-off switch that tripped or a blown fuse.

This could be serious First look & listen to the engine with the hood up to find anything loose like the fan, serpentine belt etc. Also get under the vehicle and look at the universal joints. Unfortunately, from your description, it sounds more like the auto or transfer case. With luck, it may just be the linkage but get it checked before something really serious occurs. Se my article "Noises and wht they might mean" at http://www.graemecooper.com.au/articles.htm.

Fans are notorious for work-hardening. I have lost 2 of them, both making holes in the bonnet when they exploded. Replacing the fan assembly is no big deal but do get the viscous coupling checked and/or replaced at the same time. Depending on where you are located, a good second hand unit should be available from a Land Rover shop - forget the dealers. Do NOT drive the vehicle until this is fixed - or you likely damage the engine by overheating

The P38 HEVAC system includes blend motors under the dash that mixes hot and cold air. Most likely these or the contacts have failed. Not a job you should try to do yourself so find a speclalist LR shop (not a dealer unless you take out a new bank loan first). Get them to check the heater core and hoses if they need to get that far in - it is a swine of a job and should all be done at the same time

This could be motor or transmission mounts. Check to be sure they are tight and not broken.

The jacks for these vehicles are usually under the hood. They are a hydraulic bottle type jack and the tools to operate it are usually located elsewhere in the vehicle. Your owners manual will tell you where everything is and how to use it. The jacks supplied with these vehicles, however, often don't work due to lack of use. You can use a jack from another vehicle as long as it is meant for a truck and not a car. The jack needs to be placed under the axle casing closest to the wheel you are removing. Range Rovers came from the factory with air suspension and jacking any place other than under the axle may result in an air suspension fault. Your vehicle may have been converted to coil springs, but still should be raised under the axle. Just make sure that the part of the jack that contacts the axle cradles it in some way. The factory jacks have a "V" shaped contact point so that the axle will not slide off of the jack while it is in the air. Your best bet is to loosen the lug nuts on the tire you are changing before you jack it up and wait until the vehicle is back on the ground to give the nuts the final tightening. The lug nut size is 1-1/16".

I believe you mean RELAY. You will find this relay in the engine compartment fuse box located just behind the battery. Diagram on the inside of the lid.

check fuse and connections .check if the vacuum hose has been connected (if it has one )

Not many details to your question but here's what I can share: The intake gasket, referred to as the VALLEY GASKET in many Rover shops is a moderate level replacement/repair in both time and skill. If you are systematic and meticulous with your teardown its an almost certain perfect repair. Also, this gasket is best purchased through the dealer to ensure fit and factory spec materials. Last I checked aftermarket gaskets fell short on this one. With more detail added to your question would be able to help you further. Repost and I will answer as best I can. Good luck.