1997 Land Rover Range Rover - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I suggest you to change that. Because very initially it makes problem. I found a site they are providing best Land Rover Range Rover part. It may be help ful for you.

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You really need about 660 CCA for reliable starting IF you can fit it into the available space. To do that you may need to move a few components. Have you considered that a cheaper and easier option might be to purchase a decent quality portable "jump starter"? If you decide to do that, be sure to check the specs and pick one suitable for a V8 engine. A good quality unit with warranty should cost around $200 - probably cheaper than a conventional battery

First thing to do is check the brake fluid and be sure it is full. Next look under the vehicle and make sure you do not have fluid leaking on the ground or on the inside of a tire. The problem may be the booster but make sure there is no leaks in the system before you drive it.

You don't say where you are but there are various LR owners forum and enthusiasts sites where you can get this info. Certainly UK based.

Have it re-keyed by a lock smith.

Try the fuse- fuse in the kick pannel inside the car.. I believe it is the third fuse going towards the front of the car, bottom row. The fuse pannel I have labels it as GAUGE, I believe it was a red ten. This fuse controls both windows, sunroof, and the antenna.

You posted this question twice - my answer to the other post is: For around $1000 the entire system can be changed to conventional coils, eliminating the EAS completely. You will not get as good a ride, but you will not have problems with the pump, valve block, lines or air springs either. If you want to refine the coils system one stage further, fit POLYAIR springs inside the coils

For around $1000 the entire system can be changed to conventional coils, eliminating the EAS completely. You will not get as good a ride, but you will not have problems with the pump, valve block, lines or air springs either. If you want to refine the coils system one stage further, fit POLYAIR springs inside the coils

Switch under dash by gas pedal square black left me stranded with same problem try unplugging it and jumper ink it to see if it works

Three possible cures for your situation. Start with the least complicated. BeCM basic reset. -Disconnnect the negative lead from battery. -Put key in ignition and turn to second position (all on) -Leaving the driver door open, return to engine compartment and replace the negative lead -Close the hood -Back to drivers seat, all the bells and whistles should be going off -Turn the key to the starting position. Turn it over. TIP: You MUST HAVE a healthy fully charged battery for any success resetting the immobilizer. If no help then we are on to the (emergency key access) EKA door lock method. Good luck with the simple solution. Message me direct if unsuccessful and I will forward the detailed EKA procedure.

seem to remember it being under the centre consol ,with the right software you can reset it and read the faults ,often a flat battery will throw up the light and just reseting it does the trick

Your best bet is to go on Ebay. Not sure of there are any 'up-dated' on pre-Disco II models.

If you have an older Rover, there is no reason whatsoever not to replace those airbags with the springs. It's easy to do, takes just a few hours, the ride is more firm, my rover handles even better, and you never have to worry about getting stranded somewhere far from a repair person. I gave up on the airbags after they went out twice and I live in San Diego and did not put that many miles on my rover.

Place a fuse in #11 slot of the under seat (passenger side) fuse panel. This will release the interlock.

take the vehicle to an accredited diesel repair specialist as there may be a relief valve problem or imminent pump failure. Discuss the problem with them. Make sure that the specialist is accredited in your pump as this is the best protection you are likely to get.

Make sure the Rover is on level ground. With the key on and engine off and the transmission in neutral or park, try to reset.

Only bad news I'm afraid. Overheating frequently causes the cylinder liners to slip and that should have been checked when the heads were done - you will have a case against the mechanic if this was not done. Other than a replacement engine or a new block, the only fix is to machine it to machine the cylinders and fit "top hat" liners. Neither option is cheap - you could be looking at $8k or more.

If the battery is OK - see below - the give the starter solenoid (the small cylinder fixed to the starter) a few thumps with a hammer because they frequently get corroded inside. My bet is this is the cause of your problem. If that make no difference, check the battery voltage - it should be around 12.5 or a bit higher.If the voltage is low- have the alternator and battery checked under load by an auto electrician If the battery is old, it may hold the charge but still not be good enough to crank.

Just crawl under the vehicle and identify the mounting bolts - it is as simple as that

This is an unusual problem as injector pumps use diesel to lubricate internally and to cool the pump. For it to overheat and cause you problems means that fuel is escaping under high pressure or the operating pressure is excessive . Best discuss this with a professional diesel pump repair shop as I feel there is a serious problem in the pump.