20 Most Recent 1994 Land Rover Discovery - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Try replacing your brake pedal switch or check the lockout solenoid for free movement, may need cleaning & light lube, or replacement.

fuse blown or relay needs replaced.common fault on older landrover,first check all corner bulbholders for a short ie live touching earth/common,then check for a faulty wire also common on this model ie damaged wire touching body,if all ok go back to fuse.adrian,,,

either your pressure is low causing the light to come on , and dangerous to your engine , or the oil pressure sending unit is dead. It is just a small pressure switch that screws into the side of the engine block and reads the oil pressure. If the pressure is low , or the sensor is dead , the light comes on. Oil pressure sending units die a lot more often then oil pumps , and they are not expensive to buy , or hard to install. The hardest part of the job is actually locating on your engine. Its location should be easy to find out online.

I would be checking for a blown head gasket. Hope this helps.

lt could be but the regulator but these are usually built into the alternator which negates the alternator being replaced.

The tranny filter is probably clogged up. Cold Fluid has a hard time going thru filter but hot oil will go thru easier. Have trannyoil and filter changed

Usually 80W/90 gear lube but if you have the owner's manual check it for recommended fluids in the maintenance section. Please rate me on this answer.

It sounds like a idle air sensor they can be very expensive and if you are taking one off yourself you will need a torx specialty tool with a security indentation.

2.39-2.672 kgf/cm2 .
pressue drop maximum 0.7kgf/cm2

Check the wheel bearing free play by rocking the wheel side to side by hand . If you feel any knocking then they need to be adjusted.Also check the panhard rod bushes , this is the rod connecting the front axle to the chasis.Have the wheel alignment checked if these are o.k.

Go to Radio-Code.com should help.

I am sorry but we have no diagrams for this model and year, suggest you try ebay for a used factory service manual

1994 Land Rover Discovery 3.9L MFI 8cyl

Several links about Service Manuals HERE.

Hope helps with this.

Remove the battery negative lead.
Remove drive belt.
Disconnect leads from rear of alternator (make a note of which ones go where)
Remove securing bolt from bottom of alternator.
Remove long through bolt from top fixing and withdraw alternator.
Refit is reverse of fit.

Yep, that's the engine!
Seriously though, is it a TD5 Diesel? Is it more of a squeal? If so, it'll be the exhaust manifold.

Is it a replacement or a retro fit to a manual window?

Replacements are really easy. Wear stout gloves. Move the mirror glass so that the edge nearest the car is as far forward as possible. This will push the out edge towards the back of the car. Slip your fingers (or an old thick piece of cardboard / lolly stick - that sort of thing - something that won't scratch) behind the outer edge and prise it off its retaining clips. Be careful - you only want it to pop out gently.

Once you can see the works behind, its all fairly straightforward - four screws hold the motor in place, and the wires are already there.

Assembly is reversal of the pop out - i.e. make sure it "pops" back into the clips, otherwise it will dangle off by the wires "at the most inappropriate point".

More details in the Haynes manual - section 12.15 Body work and Fittings.

If it is top left of the control panel and has a little thermometer in the middle of it, then its the transmission oil temperature light.

"In some markets, this bulb will temporarily illuminate to indicate the bulb is working when the ignition key is moved to position 2".

Generally, if its on for less than a couple of seconds - all is fine. If it stays on whilst driving then your transmission oil is too hot (hot weather, handbrake left on, punishing the engine etc ....).

If it comes on, check the oil temperature guage, and slow down. If it remains on, stop the vehicle and do not continue until it has extinguished.

Always try to get to the root cause of this fault, as it may be something more serious, such as loss of coolant (leading to engine seizure). Never check the coolant level on a hot engine - serious risk of burns injury.

For cloth seats, I'd use a VAX (which is a kind of hoover that sprays water onto the dirt and clears it up immediately) - sounds silly, I know, but the results are pretty good on dirty cloth. Beware that the seats can be damp for a couple of days (to the inexprienced user), but sitting on a towel or old T shirt is fine.

As for the fascia etc - I've always found a moist cloth to get rid of most of the "aged related deposits". Anything oily needs a degreaser, but if its as ingrained as you say, then even the oily stuff has probably dried into a particulate mass and can be cleaned with a standard cloth.

If you are trying to get a showroom finish (tricky on a 20 year old car!!) then I'd recommend a trip to your local secondhand car dealer and ask what they use. (If that sounds like a kop out, its because I don't know what part of the world you are in, so any named products may not be available in your area).

Bad Earth is the norm