2001 Jaguar XJ8 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Surely is a faulty alternator. I strongly suggest that you replace the alternator and you'll be good. Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
Have a good one!

ABS = Anti-lock Brake System.
TC = Traction Control System (Engine Control Module).
If the ABS lights on the dashboard permanently the ABS system is faulty. You must access the ABS & TC Electronic Control Units (ECU) memory for pull out all DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes), using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car. Then you will be full informed about bad pieces (e.g.: front right wheel abs sensor interrupted, ...). After bad pieces replacement you will be able to erase all faults memored by ABS ECU, in other words reset the ABS system and turn off the warning lamp on dashboard.
I suspect bad brake pedal switch, but you should scan the ABS & TC ECU's.

A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner, the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power. If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be used to assure that the voltage is correct.

For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat. If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem. Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.

Central air conditioners for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.

The next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil. This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working, the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil. A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.

Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.

As you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic way.
There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3636709-size_air_conditioner_need

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3623253-window_air_conditioners_clean_every_year

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3633369-portable_air_conditioning_great_portable

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3623166-heating_air_conditioning_scams

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3597468-you_can_add_air_conditioning_to_your_hot

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3583697-how_to_keep_house_cool_without_using_air

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First thing to check if there is enough fluid in the transmission. If yes then the most likely cause is the transmission or transfer case is gone internally.Sounds like a you need a tranny rebuild.

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If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/elixirjose_00375ea24bd8141b

I don't have a solution, but I have the same problem. My 2000 jaguar set for about 2 weeks and when I tried to start it, the engine turns over but won't fire or start.

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42 miles with a jaguar. First I love Jaguars. Youll get to your home by a tow truck. The car is talking to you say its sick.Here is what will happen, The TRAC, ASC, light is on okay the APP will now go to limp home mode what this mean it will default giving limited operations, youll probable just go 30mph, and that is just it. The transmission does not know what gear or how fast its going so it communicates to the powertrain it tell it I dont know what Im doing so it activates the traction control and say keep me safe the traction control say okay Ill get disable, then the transmission control tell the powertrain I could be burning up or slipping. So The APP(acclerator pedal position ) gets involved and say we will just limp on home.Remeber i love juguars so does tow trucks

performance restriction popped on, then engine light stayed on. Any solutions?

Have you tried to get any codes off the check engine light?

Best guess sight unseen is feathered tires from poor alignment. Feel the inside edges of the tires by rubbing your hand in both directions. If it feel "choppy" it is you tires causing the noise. Try rotating the tires from front to back to see if the noise changes or goes away. If it does, replace the front tires and have the car aligned.

Have you looked at the fuse?
The fuse must be in the main fuse box. The position and function of the fuses is normally marked on the inside of the fuse box cover and also in the owner's handbook. If you don't come right with these, work your way through the fuses looking for a blown one.

your thermastat went bad replace thermastat

As most timing chains, when they start to get noisy, that is usually when they start to stretch beyond there limits, refer to owners/service manual for any periodic maintenance.

The two hoses coming out of the back firewall in the engine compartment is the inlet and outlet for the heater core with approx 1" hoses side by side

Most likely cause is one of 2 things, EGR valve Exhaust Gas Recycler or The air mass sensor.
EGR valve basically resends unburnt fumes back through the exhaust not dissimilar to a small turbo in its function and kind of does the same job on a smaller sacle. Quite often though they do not fail completely they just get dirty, you can remove this part your self and clean it with carb cleaner, do not use anything else but carburetter cleaner. you will notice inside the EGR is a small sensor very much like a small diode, spray this and clean the whole thing as best you can. be careful not to touch the sensor just use the spray for that part. then leave to dry naturally, shouldnt take long.

When these go or get dirty the car will feel really powerless, you might get 40 mph if your lucky maybe 55mph. they struggle on hills and you need to be in low gears all the time to get anything out of the car, also the light comes on. The only other thing it could be would be the air mass sensor, again you can clean these but to be honest normally when these go you will have to buy a new one. unsure to clean all the connetction / wires to both parts also and ensure they have a good contact.Thanks

the ecm itself has a fuse, look for that first-if it does prove to be good, you probably have a bad ecm, and the window being down part way might indicate a short somewhere-are all fuses and fusible links good?

You may want to double check that you installed the battery correctly.

Did the car start properly before you changed the battery out?

If you installed it incorrectly the car isn't going to start... That's the first place I'd start.

They are located under the black plastic covers on the top of the engine. Remove those and you will see the ignition coils. Take those out and the spark plugs are beneath them. There are no spark plug wires.

yes, but you must have the code read by a mechanice. they plug in this diagnostic box into the cars computer. it could be something as simple as a loose gas cap. do you have any other error messages? as long as the light is not red, you can drive around for awhile, ...

something is broke there sould be a chain, cable or arm to hold it back it is not attached. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kenneth_3efc1f8510674f04

you can drive it still. but limited. or maybe your engine oil need to be change